Impious

If it helps here is a review by PasMag of that amp http://pasmag.com/car-audio/1341-precision-power-pc6404-amplifier

Uh, am I stupid or is there no way to watch the video? I've clicked on every link to no avail.I clicked the picture of the truck, and it took me down to the video. I toured that plant about 7 years ago. The technology on that assembly line is pretty insane.

And the problem there is clipping, not so called "underpowering". And clipping is only a problem if the resulting power is more than the driver can handle thermally. You can't damage a driver with too little power.The other parallel is the lack of amplifier "sonic signatures". It's just as much a myth in home audio as it is in car audio.

Subjective terms like "more musical" aren't meaningful. The sonic attributes of an electronic device such as an amplifier can be completely characterized by 5 measurements; frequency response, distortion, noise, gain and power. Just about any amp today is going to have flat enough frequency response to be audibly indistinguishable, low enough distortion to be inaudible, and noise should also be inaudible as long as the gain is set to avoid thermal noise. So that leaves power as the deciding factor. If by some chance two amps do happen to sound different, it's not because one amp is more "musical"... it's because there was an audible difference in one of those 5 categories. But again, there is a low probability of having two standard amps having audibly different frequency response, distortion or noise leaving power as the deciding and audibly important factor.

The beauty of amps is that aside from power and general build quality (i.e. avoiding the super low end junk) they are pretty unimportant. Buy whichever has the most power for the least money in the footprint you want with the features you need. It's really hat simple.

Match the gains on each channel with a DMM. That's what I did with my Coustic DR's that had independent gain controls.

New ? No, they've been around multiple decades. Just don't see them much. I guess if you have found a design that is cheap and easy to build, give it a go.

It's old school. Back in the day that's how most amps were.

This. I don't see the point in spending the time and $$ when the much easier fix is to just add a more convenient sub level controller.

I doubt there are too many people on here who've heard them. They are pretty rare.

Original E series http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/discontinued/item/e-series.html

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL I mean there are people on youtube feeding these 2kDon't worry about what someone on youtube is doing. That's your first problem. No reason to even reference youtube here. Obviously you're not doing something right as you are tearing the sub apart. Second what is the point for using that extra power on the sub other than increasing your risk of damage to the driver? You are looking at 1-1.5db more output, which is either fully or borderline inaudible in exchange for clearly overdriving the subwoofer. What exactly do you plan to achieve other than damaging the driver ? If output is the goal, that extra power isn't doing a whole hell of a lot of good. All it's doing is tearing the driver apart. Back off the power. Where is the subsonic filter set and how did you set the gain to know that it's "set correctly" ? I'd have to model the enclosures, but if the surround is tearing that's a clear indication of over excursion. So either you are using too much power for that enclosure mechanically, or the SSF isn't set correctly...or both.

Interestingly he still has the "SSA Store Valued Customer" banner under his username.....LOL Kudos to you Aaron for delivering top notch customer service once again. It's unfortunate that despite your best efforts you still have to deal with bullshit like this from customers.

Or depending on your goals you could chose other drivers. But do not purchase a comp set just to run the drivers active. Especially when the drivers are just rebadged versions of raw drivers. What is your budget and what are your goals ?

The Black series are nice drivers. However, they are rebadged SB Acoustics drivers. Arc claims they are different, but the Klippel measurements show them to be basically identical performance wise. The mids are the SB Acoustics SB17 drivers and go for $63 each on Madisound. I'd have to research again which SB tweeter it is Arc uses in the comp set, but the mark-up is similar. The point is you can get the drivers from Madisound for 1/4 of the price of the comp set. It wouldn't have the passive crossover, but IMO in this case the passive isn't worth the $500 price difference. EDIT: Oh shit, missed you were planning on running active. Fuck the Arc comp set. Buy the same damn drivers from Madisound for 1/4 of the price. Literally the same damn speakers. Here is the mid Arc uses in the Black series: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sb-acoustics-woofers-6-7/sb-acoustics-sb17nrxc35-4-6.5-woofer/ Do some searching and you'll also find the tweeter on there.

I'd take things Db-r says with a grain of salt. He might be able to fix an amp but he lacks the skill of logic in most instances. That said there's no reason to use a DD1 to start with, so the point is moot.

The difference between 1500w and 2500w is 2.2db BEFORE power compression. Power compression is going to lower that number even further. Realistically for that difference in power level you are going to be talking about a 1-1.5db difference at best. In the lanes this matters. For normal listening this is extremely unimportant and likely not even audible. Seems silly to go through all of the expense and trouble of upgrading your alternator so you can run a larger amp that'll sound virtually identical to your system right now, doesn't it ? As lithium pointed out, if increased output is your goal then you are far better off obtaining that through things like redesigning your enclosure. Increasing power is the least effective and efficient means to go about it.

Close, however we settled everything before court was even an issue.Pertaining to the posts above our woofers were never over $500 and will never be. No matter how late we are to this party it is worth clearing everything up for you all! What's probably confusing the poor kid is the ridiculous "Retail Price: $1,199 Your savings: $800" that is listed on your website. Perhaps you should drop the silly sales gimmick. I didn't even realize reputable companies still did such nonsense.

Loudspeaker design cookbook. To be honest it depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. The response to your question could be rather basic general information or very detailed and technical. Either way to make the best use of your time I think reading the Loudspeaker Cookbook to get a basis of general understanding is a must. It's an extremely boring read, however. You have to REALLY want to learn this stuff to power through it.

So set the gains with the volume at 29 and leave yourself some headroom for songs with lower recording levels.

Didn't state the quantity of piss either in the frequent. Little blasts regularly can be indicative of lacking in water and it is one of the worst things and strangest that can occur in your body. Up the protein and you need more fluidThis is me urinating http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1NRGUSG9NKU

Power isn't a large problem here. Difference between 1500w and 3kw is only 3db before factoring in power compression, which I'm sure would be at least 1db of power compression but likely more than that. There MAY be a small audible difference due to power but not enough to call it a problem. Hell the difference between 1500w and 3kw could end up being inaudible depending on the power compression.

Your initial assumption was correct. For optimal (i.e. minimum) noise you want the "gain" in the system as early as possible. So you want the maximum "gain" to be at the head unit, which means ideally setting the system gains with the volume at a high setting. However as lithium pointed out, you want to leave some headroom in the volume range to account for recording levels.....which is where the arbitrary 75% HU volume setting comes from.

It will just hit you one day out of nowhere. I speak from experience.That is kind of true. Like a truck from no where.I went from just having one protein shake w/ milk in the evening to 2 per day w/ the addition of cottage cheese. Everything was fine until the increase. Guessing I'm just overloading my body now.I was real constipated as a kid, according to my wife it's because my mom made us drink nothing but milk as kids & I was apparently lactose intolerant then...it's just that no one connected the dots between the constipation and the milk at the time.

IIRC it's foamy in the toilet. I make my shakes with milk. Tastes terrible in water & I could use the extra calories and protein in the milk. I drink 2 per day, 16oz of milk each. Plus a 1/2 cup of cottage cheese somewhere around mid day. The rest of my dairy is Greek yogurt and string cheese.The peeing is so bad I wake up 2 - 3 times a night to urinate. It's terrible.