Impious

Any doctors in the house ? My dairy & whey protein intake has increased substantially the past few weeks, and now I feel like shit all,the time. Stomach pains, gas, increased pooping frequency and I have to urinate every hour. Wondering if I'm lactose intolerant and just never noticed before ? Seems like an odd coincidence if not.

Just to make things easy on you....power is the ONLY thing that kills speakers. It is literally impossible to damage a speaker without overpowering it (outside of physical damage). There is no such thing as "low power can kill speakers" and clipping does not "kill a speaker before power will" because POWER is what killed the driver. The rated power of the amplifier may be less than the rated power of the speaker, but if you blow the driver you overpowered it....plain and simple, no two ways about it. Clipping will only damage a speaker if the resulting increase in power exceeds the drivers thermal or mechanical limits. Clipping might be the cause of the overpowering by increasing average power over time.....but the fact remains that TOO MUCH POWER was the factor that killed the driver.

Shit Matt you killed the Hop again

Not really true.As to the original question...No, running active really has nothing to do with whether the car is tuned for one seat or two. It's possible to tune the system in either manor (one front seat or both) with either an active or passive setup.

Hell I used significantly more layers than that to house my midranges in my kickpanels. Midranges. I think you need to find a new job. Every single thing anyone there has ever told you has been wrong. And not just a little wrong.

Makes me wish I wasn't broke.

I agree, but in the same sense, it takes a long time to get recones from Fi/SSA.Except in this case the driver was an IA

The UL12 used an MMAG motor, same tech Quentin is using in some of his DSS drivers. It was indeed a well measuring driver, never had the pleasure of playing with one.That said the actual street price for a lot of the CM gear is far less than the ebay ads, although IMO still way more than they were worth. Someone posted gut shots of one of their amps on DIYMA a couple years ago....looked like any other Asia buildhouse mass produced OEM product. IIRC they might have even identified what other amps used that same board, and they were not high dollar brands. I'll take an Ethos over the UL any day.Ethos isn't MMAG. Not saying you shouldn't be happy with it, though. There used to be some used UL's floating around on DIYMA, if I recall correctly there was a time you could grab one used for around $400 over there.

The UL12 used an MMAG motor, same tech Quentin is using in some of his DSS drivers. It was indeed a well measuring driver, never had the pleasure of playing with one.That said the actual street price for a lot of the CM gear is far less than the ebay ads, although IMO still way more than they were worth. Someone posted gut shots of one of their amps on DIYMA a couple years ago....looked like any other Asia buildhouse mass produced OEM product. IIRC they might have even identified what other amps used that same board, and they were not high dollar brands.

I live within 30 minutes of Fort Wayne.....I'm guessing that was on D&B's website? Not sure any other shop is still around that city and doing installs....and it looks like something D&B would do.

I wouldn't worry about it, honestly. I don't see the need, the sub has a high enough rated power handling that being able to squeeze a few hundred extra watts out of it isn't going to make an audible difference anyways. Side note there was an XXX for sale locally but can't get the bastard to email me back

Linearity, long throw, mid Q reasonably low Fs. That driver would do pretty damn sweet IB in a vehicle in an SQ install

Sweet Baby Lord Jesus. First, they are wrong. But second, you are no where close to being able to analyze speakers at that level. Especially on your own.

Oh dear god.First, you can't do that. Passive crossovers are designed to work with a specific impedance, and many times they are designed to work with a specific driver. If you change the impedance of the load you change the crossover frequency of the passive crossover, and if it was designed to work with a specific driver then by changing the driver nothing in the crossover or overall design is going to "work" the way it was intended to function. The frequency response will be fucked up, baffle step compensation could be fucked up, zobel network won't function properly, trap filters and other things won't serve the proper function, etc. You can't just start mixing and matching drivers on a passive crossover. It doesn't work like that. STOP DOING IT IMMEDIATELY. Second I have a very strong suspicion based on this statement you are simply confusing louder with sounds better. In which case everything you are doing is even more pointless. Sean is more right than you can imagine. Start with a decent passive component set and focus on improving your installation before you do anything else. You aren't going to learn anything doing what you are doing. It's not going to happen. Anything you think you've learned will be wrong, flat wrong. You are going to take this bad advice you get from work, combine it with this poorly executed experience you think you are gaining and come away completely confused and misinformed but THINK you know something.

Must have been the annual meeting of the Small Penis Society

What are the T/S ? Looks like a very linear driver.

A little dated? He recommended you the equivalent of this... I'm surprised you can find many processors that use a pot, much less that are also digital. We are the minority. 95% of the market are the people who want the deck & 4's installed for the lowest price possible, or want to add a sub and leave everything else basically stock.

I don't know what your goal is, but regardless of what it is you are not going to achieve it with that system layout.

Ok ...If you take a 4 channel amplifer and set it on a test bench, and ONLY connect the ground, positive, and remote wires up and fire up a solid 12.6 volts ... the amplifier should set there at idle ??? or is it common practice to ALWAYS connect RCAs up to an amplifier before startup ???What would happen if you turn the gain up in this application ???No matter how you phrase the question, the answer is the same. No, it will not damage or hurt anything.

For reference, comparing things in the manor you are isn't going to allow you to compare specific variables. For example, you can't listen to two completely different drivers that also have different cone materials, hear a difference between them and attribute that difference specifically to the cone material. All you are going to really figure out from that is that two completely different drivers sound differently. No huge insight there. As for the DQDX...ROFLMFAO. Not sure who told you it was one of the best processors on the market, but they are living in the 90's. There are dozens of processors on the market both new and used that would stomp the shit out of the DQDX in every conceivable way. Audiocontrol hasn't made a relevant processor in 15 years. How they've even stayed in business is beyond me. Because they don't deserve to. Again this is part of he problem, you keep listening to people giving you the terrible advice. I swear to god if someone at the shop told you that the DQDX was one of the best on the market I'm going to have Sean drive over there and kick every single one of them in the nuts, and yours twice.

Happy bday !!

Nice work, especially for having no real tools. Sort of kills me the amount of work you went to for what amounts to a temporary enclosure....way more elaborate than any "permanent" enclosure I've built for myself. Then again that's because deep down I know that anything that goes in my car ends up being temporal in nature.

As stated even if you were going to make them more rigid (I'd recommend fiberglassing them), then you are still left with them being secured to the flimsy door panel. By the time you put in the effort and cost to make these into a well executed installation, you would have been better off just staring from scratch as you would have to rework the whole damn thing.

Looks great. I mentioned to Aaron a year ago that you guys needed to make the Dcon in a shallow mount, so don't mind if I take credit for these . Can't wait to see specs and mounting depth measurements.

Don't recone it. Sell the motor to me. Problem solved.