Impious

From an output perspective out of your proposed options the single ported woofer would have up to 6db more output under 50hz (before power compression), but would have less output above 50hz. Personally if you don't have access to an EQ I'd rather go for the sealed pair for the reasons 95Honda mentioned & my personal preference against the peaky & bottom-heavy response of an unequalized ported enclosure in a vehicle. But if your goal is strictly focused on output then a single ported driver is going to have more output below 50hz.

Or they waste an unnecessary amount of time "testing" in a vehicle when they could have eliminated a majority of the leg work by modeling first and applying cabin gain to the model to estimate in-vehicle response.

It's all in the rating. There is no standard for rating amplifiers, although CEA has come close, but it's still flawed. Technically, they can make that power, but at a frequency the amp will never produce at a load it will never see, yeah, you get the idea. That and really, even if it is a flat out lie, are you going to spend the tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees it would likely take to bring a claim against them in court for false advertising on a $200 amplifier? It wouldn't be a simple as just filing suit in court. You'd need tests to prove it was a lie, and they would have tests to prove it wasn't so you would need to have an expert explain why their tests are wrong and yours are right, and the case would get delayed and continued for probably years on end. Simply not worth it for anybody to waste their time.

I thought the same thing Figured he was basing it off of the orientation of the logo on the dust cap.

Was there any damage to the package when it arrived? I would imagine a bent frame is shipping damage. I'm sure Aaron will see this thread soon. But you can also send them a message through the Contact Us link on the website.

Just because you've done something before doesn't mean you've done it right.

Electric blanket.

Sounds like a wiring problem on the SSD's. I would pull them out and check each coil individually to make sure there's no mechanical problems with the subs themselves. If that checks out, start from scratch and rewire them. I assume you have the SSD's in series-parallel wiring?

Do you do anything other than spam your youtube videos here?

In for the toothbrush pre-order.

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Stick with a pre-built component set right now, IMO. It will be easier to get good performance at your knowledge level from a pre-built comp set than you would with an active setup. yeah but I'm trying to save a little bit of money here to where I just need to get some tweeters. And an amp but I hope I got that covered soon. But a processor what is it? You aren't going to be able to run an active setup without some way to cross over the speakers. Some HU's have this feature built in. Yours does not. In which case, you need to purchase a processor which will contain the necessary electronic crossover networks to allow you to run an active setup. A processor is what you need in order to run active. And they cost money, so in the long run you're probably not saving much if anything. Generally speaking going active isn't about "saving money" but achieving better performance and access to a wider product (speaker) selection. More times than not active is going to end up more expensive, and the performance is only going to be an improvement when used in the hands of someone knowledgeable enough to take advantage of it, and you aren't there yet. Your three options are 1) sell your HU and purchase one that has the necessary features to run active, 2) purchase an external processor that possesses the necessary features to run active, or 3) go with a pre-built comp set. Option # 3 is the best option for you at this juncture.

I heard that if it wasn't true, they can't put it on the internet. <patiently waits for someone else who's seen that commercial>

Is that a joke? That has to be a joke.

Stick with a pre-built component set right now, IMO. It will be easier to get good performance at your knowledge level from a pre-built comp set than you would with an active setup.

People who can't live without information overload available at their fingertips 24 hours a day annoy the shit out of me. It's actually sort of pathetic the amount of people who can't just patiently wait in line without fiddling with their cell phone constantly. Because that Facebook status from your friend's brother's wife's uncle's neighbor's best friend's 3rd cousin whom you've never met is just too important not to read the instant it's updated. It's like we're too uncomfortable with ourselves or too unhappy with our own lives that we have to live vicariously through our cell phones.

Not only would I not give a fuck if cell service went down, chances are good service would be restored before I even realized anything had happened to it.

What frequency range you were needing to cross them over at. This was partially answered by your selection of mid. We can't tell you what you'll like. It helps if you have some starting point baseline of what characteristics you prefer. No. One set of tweeters. That's it. Anything more does nothing but hurt performance. A good crossover point or a good processor/crossover to use?

Too generic a question. What are your goals? Where do you want to cross them? What are you planning to use as a crossover? What is your budget? What are your sound preference? What dimensions are you able to deal with? What mids are you using?

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

I've heard they are hard to keep up with.

No, the CA glue is to bond the surround and spider to the basket and attach the dustcap. The leads are sandwiched in the spiders, so the only thing you'll have to do with those is solder them to the terminals.

The fuse is there to protect the wire itself. It keeps the wire from passing too much current, heating up and potentially causing a fire. Which means it's not just the stated wire gauge but the actual current carrying capabilities of the wire. For example, some CCA wire or undersized cheap wire may have lower current carrying capabilities than a true 0 gauge copper wire and would need to be fused accordingly. The one caveat I will add is that some amplifiers are not internally fused. If this is the case then you need to fuse to whichever has the lowest fusing requirement, either the amplifier or the wire. But as long as the amplifier(s) have their own internal fusing, you select fuse size based on the current carrying capabilities of the wire.

Hope that cleans up easy, looks like you oversprayed onto your paint.

If you literally only use one of the 2-channels then no, all of the power will not go through that one channel. Power output may go up just a smidge (a measurable but otherwise meaningless amount) compared to utilizing both channels as the power supply would be under less stress and such, but otherwise no realistic and no audible difference in output would result from only using 1 channel. The amplifier would still be restricted by the rail voltage and current capabilities of that particular channel as far as output is concerned. However if you are talking about bridging then the power output would be that which the amplifier is rated to provide when bridged. More information about what exactly it is you are doing would be helpful.