Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Impious

SSA Tech Team
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Impious

  1. Hey, come up with something original next time instead of just copying everything I say.
  2. Circular saw would be fine as long as you have a nice straight edge to use. A table saw and sliding miter saw will make life easier, however. Also, a plunge router and circle jig will make life easier when cutting out the speaker holes compared to a jigsaw. But a circular saw & jig saw will "work". Also, some good clamps and corner clamps will make assembly go more smoothly.
  3. Generally no, this is not a good idea. Passive crossovers are typically designed to work best with one particular speaker, or the speaker you are looking to use may need something different than that particular passive crossover offers. Generally you can expect results to be less than optimal by using a different speaker on a passive crossover that was not specifically designed for that speaker. What type of "bass" were you looking for out of these 6.5" speakers?
  4. Honestly the difference between the "real" output and "rated" output of that amp isn't going to be audible anyways unless it's horrendously overrated, which is not very likely.
  5. More than likely the outputs are internally paralleled. That means if you connected a 4ohm load to each output, the amp would "see" a 2ohm load, because internally the amp is wired in parallel. You would just want to connect the subwoofer to one pair of the outputs. You would not try to "bridge" the outputs.
  6. "Preamplifier" is an extremely generic term that encompasses an extremely wide range of products with differing features and uses. So it would really depend on the specific needs and wants of the owner and the features of the product. Though I would not say potential benefits are limited to "SQ" systems.
  7. The passive crossovers are there to direct the proper frequencies to the proper speakers. They don't really play much of a roll in amplifier selection. You will still want to use the highpass crossover on the Sundown amp to highpass the mids.
  8. "Kevin"Subtillis 1800woofers Hand Built Enclosures Skar has an official forum here and a forum on another car audio forum. This can't be the same dude... "You get what you paid for" Especially enclosures. he offered cheap enclosures, you get them. You're missing the part where he posted pictures of high quality enclosures and installs that he represented as his own work (when it was not, he stole the pictures from different websites) and represented those pictures as portraying the quality of the enclosures that he was selling and that the purchasers would receive. So he flat out lied, pulled a bait-n-switch, lied some more, and then continued to pull several more antics during his internet career. He literally stole money from people by selling a product significantly different than advertised. That practice is against the law for any business in this country, fortunately for him (but unfortunately for his "customers") he was just some kid on the internet so not much could really be done. So no, it's not a simple case of "you get what you pay for". It was intentional deceit from the very beginning for the sole purpose of padding his pockets. No one said he can't seem like a nice guy in person. I'm sure he's rather pleasant. But he's still a piece of shit, no matter which way you slice it. I'm sure he was really just interested in "helping people out" by posting pictures of high quality craftsmanship, claiming it as his own when it was not, representing to the buyers that the enclosures they were receiving were going to be of similar quality, and then instead shipping shit enclosures to those individuals which IIRC were basically useless. Really sounds like he was just trying to help.
  9. Personally I would suggest a different speaker combination before you even consider active headunits. Though with a $500 budget personally I'd rather look for a used C701/H701 combo than a new all-in-one headunit.
  10. Sinfoni is a high end manufacturer. Ideally that would mean they use higher quality parts, better build quality, better circuit design, etc. These aren't your "mass produced in China/Korea on a generic board design" line of products. While I don't know the MSRP of that particular unit their amplifiers and other products are equally expensive so that price doesn't seem entirely out of line for the brand. Value however is in the eye of the beholder. Not everyone is going to see $1050 of value in that particular product (myself included). Think of brands like Sinfoni and Brax (et al) as the Ferrari's and Lambo's of the car audio market.
  11. Another tip: Make sure you finalize the disc after you burn the MP3's on it. In my experience a disc won't play until it's been finalized, and some programs won't automatically finalize a disc. (Atleast back in the good ole days, I haven't burned a disc in probably 5 years).
  12. If you have attempted direct contact with no results, your next best course of action would probably be a Paypal dispute before the ability to do so expires. If he responds, you can correspond with him through Paypal's dispute resolution and maybe he'll be able to advise you on the status of your enclosure build or his ability/inability to fulfill your order. If he fails to respond, then hopefully Paypal would decide in your favor and refund you the money.
  13. Well, there's my problem. I've been calling 867-5309.
  14. thanks man! ill look into that one! how bout this.... forget my lack of midbass topic... im looking at new midbass drivers... what amp would u guys recommend for the Selenium drivers. It's hard to ignore the fact that you are trying to improve your midbass by selecting speakers that are not going to excel at midbass performance. Seems a little like trying to use a band-aid to fix a broken leg....then asking us to forget about the broken leg, you just need recommendations on what brand of band-aid to use.
  15. Reminds me of one of my ex's........ Pa-zing !
  16. You guys laugh, but maybe they tell you that nonsense just to see if you agree with them or can intelligently argue against them. Maybe they're the ones laughing when you leave......"Did you see that guy who was just in, he really thought my system was 200db....lulz" Reverse psychology FTMFW
  17. Power is the least effective means of increasing output. If the options are more power with less displacement or less power with more displacement, the latter option would be the most desirable. That assumes you have sufficient room for an appropriate enclosure, etc.
  18. There are a lot of situations where you would need the ability to run different signals to each pair of channels. If you are using channels 1&2 for front speakers and channels 3&4 for rear speakers you could use the front and rear RCA outputs on your headunit ran to the corresponding inputs on the amplifier, allowing you to maintain front-to-rear fading. If you were using channels 1&2 for front speakers and the rear channels bridged to you sub, and you wanted to use the built in controls on the headunit or another preamp level device (such as subwoofer level, crossovers, etc), you would use the front RCA output on the headunit ran to the ch 1&2 inputs and the subwoofer RCA output on the headunit to the ch 3&4 inputs on the amplifiers. If you were running active you would need to be able to run one preamp channel to each individual amplifier channel (right tweeter, left tweeter, right mid, left mid). Etc etc etc. Run 1 RCA cable from the headunit to the amplifier, and use a y-splitter at the amplifier to send the signal to both sets of inputs. Some amps do have a switch that takes the signal from one input and routes it to the other input internally within the amplifier. Your amplifier apparently doesn't have this feature, however, so you'll just have to use 2 y-splitters at the amplifier.
  19. Not sure I'm understanding your question correctly. But on most 4-channel amps there are two sets of inputs; one input for channels 1&2 and one input for channels 3&4. This allows you the option to send different signals to the two pairs of channels.
  20. Why would you need to if the seleniums are capable of going up to 9kHz? Because in reality they likely can't play up that high, and even if they could it wouldn't be a good idea.
  21. Stop bringing all of your petty bullshit from another forum over here. At this point I consider this spam as you post identical threads on just about every car audio forum that presently exists.
  22. Are you talking about Scott Buwalda's IASCA presentation vid? He had a custom liquid cooled amp rack with reservoir, but the subs weren't cooled. He starts talking about the liquid cooling system around 6:15
  23. Sad to see. Kevin was a great guy to do business with and offered some outstanding products to the market at very reasonable prices. I've been rocking a Shiva-X in my car for several years and love it.
  24. Personally I would go for something like THIS and run it 2ohm per channel.
  25. I was wondering the same thing My guess would be that he meant he is going to wire one sub per channel @ 2ohm per channel instead of running them mono @ 1ohm. Or he could just bridge the amp and wire them in series for a 4ohm load. Same difference.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.