Billy Jack

If I where you, and obviously on a budget, I would amp those subs and build something around those subs, and in the middle of the seat, to keep the seat from touching your subs at max excursion, other wise your gonna end up with torn surrounds, and folded cones, which want be pretty, or sound to nice. Maybe some 1x1 around the sub and in the middle to support the seat, and hopefully not make it to odd looking. Or if no one uses the back much, just leave it up better bass anyways.

I'm not suggesting he buy a new system, I'm suggesting he fix the one he has now. He has a great sub, HDC3's can take 2k all day, everyday and if he is underpowering it with a old amp that may, or may not, be up to par, he could possibly be very happy with a amp and electrical to support it. Now if your hurting for cash, then yes by all means just work with what you have. I don't want to see anybody disappointed in their system. A friend of mine had this very dilemma just last week, he got 2 new Memphis mojo subs in one of the heaviest ported boxes I have ever seen, and all he had for power is a Sony 1200 that in reality does what, a 1/3rd of that, maybe 300-400 watts at .1%thd, and he asked the very same question? What should I do, it's just not that loud. I recently picked up a spare slash 1k for $50 bucks (he thought it blew) so we hooked it up to his zero gauge, and he instantly smiled ear to ear when he saw his windshield wipers bouncing off the windshield, and climbed in to find blurry vision, and breath taking bass, where once was not much. It's up to the op if he feels a slight gain is worth it to him, but I know for a fact a properly boxed and powered sub is gonna be louder, sound better, and possibly last longer if he might be trying to ask to much of his under sized amp. I give my honest opinion, and leave it to the op to figure out what he thinks is best for his situation.

Transistors, capacitors, and resistors can degrade over time and want function as they did when new. Obviously this is far worse when a amp is cheap, and uses cheap parts. Also amps that are forced to output more power then they safely can, also substain damage, but still may work, just not to full capacity. But you want know until you test it, unless it's really bad then you might notice a degrade in output. And that's why I prefer to not buy used electronics, you just don't know what your getting, unless it's a piece from someone you know. Also I have noticed huge gains from changing amps, going from a autotech 1k to a US2000X transformed my system. It was Substantially louder, and the sound quality was noticeably better to, so I don't know where you guys get changing amps want help. I have also had gains just changing subs in the same system to. Eventually if you upgrade and add enough you can take a mediocre system and transform it into a block rattling beast with superb sq.

Can't go wrong with soundqubed if your on a tight budget, a few hundred dollars could have you a sub stage, and if you like the factory radio you could get a line output converter and just use the stock mids, and add a sub stage, as it will be the most noticible change. Then later you could always upgrade a piece at a time. Second thing I would do is change your factory speakers, then after that you could get a amp for your mids, highs.

How old is your amp? Some old amps do loose power so it may end up being more then double the power. Only way to tell is clamp it and see what your sub is getting. That and so many of these manufacturers lie you honestly want know till you try. Have you used any sound deadening that's a cheap way to gain a little plus it helps the entire system and not just your sub stage.

I would try a second battery, big 3-4, all 0 gauge wiring, and keep a eye on voltage drop. If it drops below 12volts, then you may need a alternator, but you want know till you try. Also listening habits will factor in to. If you are heavy on the volume for hours, then your gonna need a electrical system to substaine that. But if you go easy you may be fine. I'm running 1500 watts in my dodge, and have no problems unless I go full tilt for over 2 hour.

I have no idea how they sound, that's what I was saying. I hope when I get mine it can sound as good as my JL, and hit as hard as my sundown's, but that's a lot to ask of any sub from any company. The only ones I have heard where in prefab boxes on very low power, so I'm hoping there half as good as everyone says. Sorry if I'm off topic I was responding to Aaron's quote about a all SSA system.

It would be awesome if the SSA subs could have close to the sound quality of my 13w7, and still have half the output as my Sundown team subs, but I imagine that being really hard to do as everything in audio is a trade off. I'm surprised the JL's sound as good as they do and can still hammer when called upon, and same goes for the sundowns, they are violent but sound decent at moderate levels, but they are in so much better of a box then my w7, it's just in a crappy prowedge sealed box, it looks good but I know the sub has so much more in it, and my teams need more power, there laughing at the BC3500, and my week as electrical. I still have so much to do but it's hard the way I work, and the local shops are just a rip off. I don't trust them to install a thing. I paid one of them to do my JL system, and it looked as though they just flagged someone down and said you wanna make $50 real quick. They even put used wire pieced together in my doors, thinking I would never see it, and my amp had black tape holding the wires together, like how exspensive can zip ties be?

You got everything but head units and crossovers but I was talking mostly about all ssa subs, mids, highs, and amps with my usual alpine head unit. Oh and wire I guess to. I normally run passive in my cars so I wouldn't need a dsp anyways. I have ran active but not in a while. The pic of the S/10 with 20's was a active front 2 way but I mostly did it because I couldn't build a big sub stage in a single cab without doing a blow through so I focused more on sound quality.

I think it might have been focal, they listed them for upfront bass, and they where odd sizing, but it's been a bunch of years since I last seen them listed.

Who was it that made subwoofers designed to be used in the front of the car? Morel maybe, I can't remember, but I do remember they used non standard sizes like 9", 11", 13". I myself have never tried subs upfront but I'm sure if they designed subs to be ran that way it could be done.

Really, I honestly didn't think these monster 8's could do much, but cool to know they can. I bet it's fun to see the look on someone's face when they think you got 12's or 15's and you tell them 8's. I always thought it took multiples of these to get loud, like 4-6 8's to equal a couple of 12's.

To be fair, a lot of my post are bullshit while arguing with Sean, but please let's all just move forward and let things go.

Good thing your coming out with all this new stuff right when I'm ready to do another big build. All JL in the dodge, Sundown and crescendo in the mustang, and all SSA in the Cruze just sounds like a good idea. Expect a order from me soon Aaron. You guys got me curious to how a all SSA system would sound. I truly hope there half as good as everyone says.

Oh and I would name them the 8Cons!

Can these little guys actually hit, or move air if you will, like say a 12". I haven't heard any of these new 8"s? Does the huge motor force actually make up for the lack of cone area, or are these just for filling in the lower end of the music signal? Reminds me of the guys in Europe who did 150's, on a butt load of 6x9's! But could these do decent numbers without having 10 of them? That mostly my question as I have no exsperience with 8" or 10" inch subs.

What does High Output Enclosures charge for a box like this? If you don't mind me asking. The guy I have build my boxes is always super busy around this time of year so I may have to find someone else to build my box for my Cruze. Still trying to figure out what subs I want to run. Sorry not trying to get off topic just curious about the pricing.

Sounds like your running that amp way to hard for the electrical you have. Try adjusting your gains. That or you got some bad wires or batts. I would try the gain first see if that helps. You also gotta remember at a .5ohm that amp is super inefficient.

It can't hurt being part owner in a online store, to which you can get some goodies at cost. I would be doing builds non stop if I where you. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

This is what I was talking about. Myself, I would rather mount off axis, and adjust it the best I can, then have a on axis out of place speaker. Not saying it's what anyone else should do, just saying it's what I prefer myself. That speaker on the dash would drive me crazy. I believe in fixing the sound instead of just moving it to try and fix the problem. To each his own, but thats why I never understood the hole install is everything bit.

Oh, and yes I'm not a expert on box building. I'm pretty sure I already said that about a dozen times. I always let someone who has the proper equipment do it so I can focus on what I do know, the rest of the system. Now I do the exterior painting, or carpeting but I was never trained in box design. I'm sure I could but why not just ask somebody who can do it so much easier. It's like building a car, not many guys build every inch of a car, they do what they know they can get right and farm out the rest, i.e., engine building, transmission building, paint and fabrication etc. Well I can do the entire system but find it easier to let somebody who does it often build my boxes then I apply the finish I want.

I'm not arguing, just correcting his wrong information, like he does mine. Install is everything, is like saying box rise, or sq, it's not exactly correct, even though in certain situations it fits more then others, like for a competitor who can measure it, and adjust accordingly. Just like install isn't gonna fix every system, a complex set of digital crossovers can do more, a lot more. That's all I was trying to say.

At least that's all I'm sucking, I saw that bumper sticker on your SUV, cowboys butts drive me nuts, I would have kept that to myself there Sean. Lmmfao

Why would I do an install without crossovers if I just said CROSSOVERS are the way to fix your system not moving your speakers around. That was my whole point. Fix the sound coming out of the speakers instead of spending $1000's and countless hours to move your speakers for barely any bennifit.

No there not. There part of the equipment. Install is speaker location, sound deadening and so forth. And I just gave you a valid point goober can you not read either?