Billy Jack

And I have no idea what you dumbassess are arguing about. All I said was, in my car 2 runs of CCA from the front battery to the back was fine and supplied my system enough current and once again 2-3 of you loose your mind and start changing around what I said to argue me. Hell I spelled it out 4 times and you guys still can't figure it out. You guys have got to be some drug addicted, illiterate, argumentative, egotistical, fucktards if not worse. Really, I have met crack addicted, inbred, whore's with Tourette's, that made more since then you 2. If you loath me so, why not stay the fu!k out of our perfectly peaceful, useful conversations, just block me out of your screen you can do that no problem, it says block this user, just hit that button and be on with your life instead of bitching, and whining, and pissing, and moaning, about me.

I already said that about you, you unoriginal bastard. Seriously come up with your own burns, instead of just repeating mine. I said 2 months ago, you where copying your responses, word for word out of the car stereo cookbook.

Somebody is trying to sell more wire lol! ^

I also got a email from sound drive they will be getting a new shipment of 12's in march. I think instead of one big btl I'm gonna try and get two of those 12"s and run them off a synergy 3500 in my Cruze. Surely using the entire trunk I can fit 2 12"s. And I'm gonna wire it the exact same way I did the mustang since I already have the wires. Welding cable for my big 3, OFC from my retarded batt to the amp, and CCA from the front battery to the back.

I also got a email from sound drive they will be getting a new shipment of 12's in march. I think instead of one big btl I'm gonna try and get two of those 12"s and run them off a synergy 3500 in my Cruze. Surely using the entire trunk I can fit 2 12"s. And I'm gonna wire it the exact same way I did the mustang since I already have the wires. Welding cable for my big 3, OFC from my rear battery to the amp, and 2 runs of 1/0 gauge CCA from the front battery to the back. The car has a 120amp alt so for now I'm gonna try and upgrade the 2 batts and do the alt upgrade latter.

The spl build I did in my new mustang, the orange one I posted. I didn't build the box, but I did the rest myself, and it's playing flawlessly, except I need more power. Not more wire just another amp. There is also a small little Memphis sub, and amp in my Jeep to. But it's just to add a little low end, not nothing to call a big system. Just a 10" power series in a sealed box on a 500 watt power series amp. Then I got the entire JL audio system including the 13w7 and HD1200/1 in the dodge my woman drives. When I posted all those pics, the box hadn't been built yet, so there was nothing to post except the car. Since I posted those pics I can't get anything else to post except the pics already in the folder already. It will post those but want let me delete them or start a new one. I have tried everything it just gives me a error code. Now I just bought a 2012 chevy Cruze to deliver in and I want to add a amp, subs and electrical upgrades. I'm keeping my stock head unit and already added some cheap tweeters to help out my front stage. I just want as much cheap bass as possible.

What the fuck did I say? I said for the 4th goddamn time, (FOR A CHEAP LOW POWER SYSTEM) Jesus what's so hard to comprehend about that? You guys need a reading lesson or something. Obviously you need it for a huge build, but for my little system just to run a power wire from the front to the back it's fine. And your damn speakers have aluminum in them, so if it's so bad why do they work so good. I can't believe you guys are so brainwashed to think NVX amps are good, but CCA wire isn't. And as far as hooking up the amps, I said I used the good stuff for short runs from the battery to the amp, so what possible harm could using 2 runs from front battery to the back battery cause? I have no problem maintaining my voltage on a crescendo 3500@1ohm. And I even said if I had trouble holding proper voltage I would gladly fit the bill. You guys are to hung up on trying to argue me, how about instead, read what I have said, instead of implying I mean something I don't. Here is what I have said #1 CCA of the same gauge will (not carry as much current or last as long as OFC). #2 A double run of CCA (power wire) can carry just as much or more current then a single run of similar size OFC. #3 for cheap low to moderate power systems, CCA or welding cable is fine. #4 for high power or huge builds it would take to many runs of CCA to work properly hence the need for OFC. #5 a run of CCA of comparable power wire between the front battery, and the trunk battery, will in no way affect sound quality provided there is enough current to fully supply the amp to its max draw. #6 almost everybody will not read this as it's wrote, but read what ever they need to just for the sake of a argument. #7 I said for (my application) not yours or his, as in run what ever the hell you want I couldn't care any less. Really spend $5k if you think it's so much better, but don't expect me to buy into the fad. #8 the very wire carrying power to your homes are aluminum, you really think your NVX amp has more current draw then your entire home? If you do I got some sweet swamp land, I mean beach front property I want to sell you!

What the fuck did I say? I said for the 4th goddamn time, (FOR A CHEAP LOW POWER SYSTEM) Jesus what's so hard to comprehend about that? You guys need a reading lesson or something. Obviously you need it for a huge build, but for my little system just to run a power wire from the front to the back it's fine. And your damn speakers have aluminum in them, so if it's so bad why do they work so good. I can't believe you guys are so brainwashed to think NVX amps are good, but CCA wire isn't. And as far as hooking up the amps, I said I used the good stuff for short runs from the battery to the amp, so what possible harm could using 2 runs from front battery to the back battery cause? I have no problem maintaining my voltage on a crescendo 3500@1ohm. And I even said if I had trouble holding proper voltage I would gladly fit the bill. You guys are to hung up on trying to argue me, how about instead, read what I have said, instead of implying I mean something I don't. Here is what I have said #1 CCA of the same gauge will (not carry as much current or last as long as OFC). #2 A double run of CCA (power wire) can carry just as much or more current then a single run of similar size OFC. #3 for cheap low to moderate power systems, CCA or welding cable is fine. #4 for high power or huge builds it would take to many runs of CCA to work properly hence the need for OFC. #5 a run of CCA of comparable power wire between the front battery, and the trunk battery, will in no way affect sound quality provided there is enough current to fully supply the amp to its max draw. #6 almost everybody will not read this as it's wrote, but read what ever they need to just for the sake of a argument. #7 I said for (my application) not yours or his, as in run what ever the hell you want I couldn't care any less. Really spend $5k if you think it's so much better, but don't expect me to buy into the fad. #8 the very wire carrying power to your homes are aluminum, you really think your NVX amp has more current draw then your entire home? If you do I got some sweet swamp land, I mean beach front property I want to sell you!

Your about a pucking prick, I'm not a troll. All I said is, CCA in bigger or more runs is fine to run a second battery. How the fuck am I wrong here? I never said it was better or as good as OFC I just said for a cheap system it was a waste to me. You and M5 usually say the more expensive stuff isn't any better, but just to argue now it is huh. And thumper is the one who said OFC sounds better and that who I was explaining to. The day you can here the difference in sound quality from 2 runs of 1/0 CCA from 1 run of 1/0 OFC is the day I will kiss your ass and give you 30 days to draw a crowd. But we all know it doesn't matter if I'm wrong or right Jcarter and M5 will just twist or flat out change my words to try and make me the bad guy. Just like the nissans I said the Altima 4 door car was bigger then a maxima which it is and they post picks of a new 2 door when I clearly said the 2000's nissans. We where all discussing my new system just fine until M5 and jaycocksucker jumped in to start a argument.

I never said you should have, I said you could have, and for what the OFC cost, I'm sure you could have got the run of CCA, and a dual 4 gauge to 1 input, and still had money left over. But for you, I'm sure the OFC is the way to go. I was just saying the difference in sound isn't from going from aluminum to copper, it's because you got more current which made your amps run better, that was my point. You said OFC is better for SQ but it's no different then aluminum if the current each carry is the same, as in 2/0 of CCA instead of 4/0 of OFC. Now the one thing you do got that CCA doesn't supply is longevity, your OFC will still be carriying current long after my CCA has rotted away, but like I said twice already I don't keep cars long so it doesn't have a chance to go bad before it's replaced.

The change was because you had more current, allowing your amps to run better. Had you added another run of CCA, it would have done the same thing or better. Nobody is saying OFC of the same size isn't better it is, where saying that 2 runs of equal cross section of CCA will provide the same or actually slitely more current. And if your on a budget and ain't running a 20k watt show car it only makes sense to get the same results for cheaper. Only real problem with CCA is it degrades and will not carry current like ofc, but I go through cars so fast (1-3 years) it's not a problem for me. Now in my dodge I do have all JL true 1/0 ofc but in my mustang I got welding cable on my alts and battery with 2 runs of XS power CCA ran to the back battery, and some left over stinger OFC ran from my back battery's to the amp. And it saved me a lot of money and it works just fine no voltage problems whatever.

Yes that's what I said. I use 2 runs of 1/0 gauge CCA from front battery to the back, then I use the good stuff for my short runs to the amp and ground. And yes I can get 2 runs of CCA for 1/2 what this OFC cost and 2 runs has a slitely better flow then the single run of ofc. That way my amp connections stay nice and I'm not out $300 on all OFC wire. I usually do the big 3 in welding cable to, and it's copper and fat. Like I said, for my application it just makes sense, now if I needed to save space, or wanted a show quality install then yes I would fit the bill, but I hide 95% of my wires anyways. Only thing anybody will see is top of the amp and the runs under the hood only if it's up.

Oh, and one wire (OFC) does not provide any difference in sound quality, provided both wires are conducting the same amount. CCA of equal size will have a conductivity of about 60-65% of the same gauge OFC, so 2 runs of CCA of the same gauge will provide better conductivity then a single run of OFC, of the same gauge. Don't believe me, just ask d!ck head, I'm sure he will concur with me, and if not he's just lying to sell you something, or bending what I'm saying to make it sound like I'm wrong. It's Easier to fool people, then to convince them they have been fooled.

More then likely I will run welding cable, which I can get for $1.35-$1.75 depending on copper prices. But I have run plenty of CCA and never had a problem except currosion. It does not last as long, but as quick as I go through cars it's never a problem for me. As long as you give your amps and alts plenty of cross section your good for low to moderate power daily systems. I usually run my short runs in the good stuff, and my power wire connecting bats in the cheaper stuff, and just double up on 1/0 gauge CCA or welding cable. Ain't no way in he!! I'm paying $100's to run 15' of power wire from one battery to another. Now if I was building a 20k watt demo vehicle, yea nothing but true oxygen free copper 4/0 gauge, but for my little cheap 2-3k watt system I'm fine as long as my voltage stays up. Now if I ever get to a point I have 2-3 runs and still can't keep it above 12 I will upgrade.

It's electricity, it doesn't care what it flows through, as long as it has enough surface area. And I never said there was anything wrong with OFC, it's good stuff no doubt about that and I'm sure it does conduct better but for the money it just ain't worth it to me, I would rather run 2 runs of CCA.

So you think 2 runs at 3' of 1/0 CCA to a amp from a battery in your trunk, can't carry enough current to supply a amp? Funny I see guys doing 150's 160's db with CCA. As long as the wire is true 1/0 or 2/0 your good man. And you definitely don't need it for speaker wires.

Ain't nothing changed but the clothes.

Unless your running a huge $100k dollar demo vehicle OFC ain't worth it. For a daily ground pounder CCA is fine. All where doing is running current, it doesn't care what it flows through, just as long as it's big enough. OFC is just for vanity, which is actually a big part of audio. These company's want you to believe OFC is so much better because there's money in it for them. You ever seen how they test it, lol they do rolled up wire in 1000' lengths, last I checked a car is only what 15' long. If anything just run a extra run of CCA and call it good.

Yea I wouldn't pay much attention to those Dyno's. Everything I have seen them dyno was way over even what the manufacturer says the amps do. Not saying your amp ain't a bad mother, I'm positive it is but I'm like Randall on the max output. I will never use this car to compete, or burp, just playing music, so I'm more worried about a amps RMS, and efficacy. And the biggest Alts I have seen for the turbo Cruze is a 260amp, so I'm thinking a bigger XS power batter under the hood, a matching batt in the trunk with a single run of CCA to it. Then short runs of 1/0 gauge to the amp or amps. Surely just playing music all that can support a synergy 3500. I can always try it and upgrade my electrical if needed. And yes those DSS neo's look mean but I haven't heard the best things about DSS.

Cool. Anybody know at what price point these will be sold at?

No I got it and if I got any ssa sub it would be a Zcon or a Evil, but I don't know if I can support the electrical to run one or two of those. Their not very efficient, or at least that's how the specs read. I know I could run one but if I'm gonna go to all this trouble I want to be able to take full advantage of its capability's.

But yea if I could get my hands on a couple of those, and run them off a synergy 3500@1ohm with a couple of big batts, and a run of 0 gauge, and big 3, would work nicely to. Might have to wait a couple weeks to do a alt upgrade, but in the meantime just go easy for break in.

That's funny, I was looking at those a couple of days ago, but like you said there sold out. And yes 91db@1watt is high efficiency for a 12". And I'm not nessesarly stuck on inverted either, but if I had more room I definitely would. I would much rather have more bass then good looks.

I had originally wanted a 15" Sundow ZV5 from SSA, but that new BTL is just cool looking with those neo magnets. One of those inverted with the magnets facing the cabin will look awesome, and I'm sure sound awesome. Nothing set in stone yet, just trying to figure out what I want, and what I can run in this little car. I know I'm not worried about sound quality with this one, I just want as much bass as possible without giving up my back seat.

No not the sundowns, the w7. Guys at the shop didn't bother to set the gains, not once but twice and burnt the 13w7 up. They had the HD1200/1 turned to 100% on everything. After receiving the 3rd sub I set it up myself, and it's been playing good for a few years now. I also let JL know about their, (reputable dealer) what a bad joke that was. Gotta say that was my first, and last time, ever dealing with a shop.