BigCProductions99

I Used To Run Rainbow Components Active, I Can't Remember The Exact Name, But They Were Around $280 A Set. Very Good Components, Only Reason I Changed Them Out Is Because I Went To A Low-Tuned "Get Loud And Sound Damn Good" Setup In My Daily Driver, The Rainbows Were More Suited To SQ Applications. If You Are Able To Run Without Passive Crossovers Or Can Build Your Own, I'd Look Into Maybe Some Mach 5 Audio MLI-6.5"s And Some LPG 25NFA's Or Seas Prestige Series Tweeters If You're Strapped For Cash. I've Never Heard Either Set You Mentioned Above So I Could'nt Say If This Helps Or Not.

....Two Totally Different Drivers, Polar Opposites. But Either One Will Achieve The Goal You Are After. Main Choice Now Is, Do You Want To Be A Little Louder Theoretically, Or Sound Really Damn Good While Getting Really Damn Loud?

...Or You Could Just Twist The Damn Things. Or Use The Proper Gauge, Especially For This Particular Driver.

Can't Go Wrong With Either Company, But I Still Say Mach 5 IXL 15. With Either Company, You Get Great Engineering And Build Quality, Great Low End Extension On Those Woofers, And Great C/S. And If Aesthetics Are Really That Important, Buy A Funky Pup. /endjoke. Short And Sweet: Xmax Doesn't Mean Everything. Also, You Shouldn't Feel The Need For You To Be Heard, It Should Be For Your Enjoyment, Not Others. That May Be Hypocritical Coming From Me, My Motto: My Prescription Is Bass, And Others Hearing It Is A Side Effect.

/start thread hijack Recipient: johnecon2001 Wtf Happened To H.A.T. Anyway? /end thread hijack

You Might Be Okay With The Alt On That Motor. I'd Try To Get A Powermaster D5100, And Do The Big Three With 1/0. This May Be A Tad Off Topic, But I'm Curious As To What Front Stage Components You Are Running...Or Coaxials, God Forbid. ...And Where The Hell Are You Planning To Put This 15" In A Standard Cab GMC? I Had Hell Trying To Get 2 Assassin 10"s In A Ported Box In My '94 Single Cab Shortbed Chevrolet Without Taking The Console Out. I'd Take That Utility Tray Out That's Behind The Seats If It Isn't Already Gone. That And Removing The Console, And Building A Box That Could Run Inbetween The Seats With An Integrated Console. Having The Driver More Forward Would Be Great In A True SQ App, Which I Know Isn't What You Are Doing, But It Does Significantly Improve A Soundstage. Plus, It's Great When You Make A Console With Cupholders That Can Fit A 32oz Gatorade Or A Monster BFC. Edit: Ewwwwwwwwwwwww. V6.

You're such an egotistical piece of shit. Woah.. ...Uh-oh.

I Second Mark's Statement, I May Be A Fi Diehard, But That Damn Icon 10" I Put In My Dad's Jeep pucking Rapes And Sounds Great Doing It.

Or I You Feel Like Doing It The 'Po Boy Route, You Can Duct Tape The Spider And Solder The Tinsels. /endjoke.

ya those are the exact ones i was wondering about...oh, whats the general consensus on the ap 3000d? does it do rated power? I Don't Know, I've Never Bench Tested One Of Them Nor Do I Want To, Audiopipe Is A Brand I Probably Will Never Touch. They Seem To Dump More Money Into Advertisement And Flashy Products Instead Of Quality Engineering And Build Quality.

It Very Well Could Be The Turn On Lead, That Was One Of The Areas I Was Trying o Address. Thankfully For Me My Knukonceptz RCA's Already Have Them Integrated In So I Don't Have To Run Remote Turn On Leads. Check Your Electrical Grounds Too, Not Just The Amp Grounds. All The Power Hookups, Connectors, Everything. If A Shop Wired The Sub Up Too, Check And See If It's Polarity Is Reversed Or It's Wired Wrong, It Sounds Crazy But That Could Be The Problem Too. If You Had A Digital Multimeter This Would Be So Damn Easy, But You Don't. When And If You Get One, I Recommend A Fluke.

Why Would You Want To Run Two Generic 10"s And A Fi Q 15"? You Only Need The One 15". Edit: The Make, Model, And Year Of Your Vehicle Would be Nice, Too.

Should Be 2 Two-Into-Ones, If I'm Not Mistaken.

You Can't Do This Yourself? Lol.

4 gauge for sub wires? That is the stupidest thing I have ever heard of. x2.

AudioPipe Tweeters #2 #3 Those? ...Those Are The Kind You'd Probably Want To Stay Away From Unless You Like A Piercing High That Sounds Awful, Those Are The Phenolic Type I Addressed Earlier, And Most Of Them Sound That Way. Just Adding, And Take This The Way You Want, I Would Never Buy An Audiopipe Product.

Did you read the first post in this thread before answering then? He specifically asked about bullet tweeters and your response sounded like a rave review. *I realize you added soft dome, but I doubt the OP understand the ramifications of that addition I understand that, I wasn't intentionally meaning for my response to be that way. But I think I defined a traditional bullet/horn pretty well in it. <--- I'm so proud. Bleh, I Still Want To Type Like This. Lmao.

It Very Well Could've Been, It Wouldn't Suprise Me That Much Being It Was Done By A Shop. ...Here's Another Thing That Just Popped In My Head, What Brand Of RCA's Are You Using? Because Some Don't Work Too Well On Sundown Amplifiers. It Would Be A Good Idea If We Could See Some Pics Of Your Terminals (Wired) And Grounding Locations.

You Would Gain Nothing From Doing So. And The Mayhem Is More Expensive Than The BTL.

Why? BTW. . .did you notice that is a 2 slug motor? ...Yeah, I Noticed That, Brian. Lmao. The Reason I Said That Is Because You Really Don't See Them Much Anymore, But I Digress.

Edit: Nevermind.

And When I Say Horn Tweeters, I Mean Horn-Loaded Soft Domes, Not The Typical Phenolic Ones With Flares.

Just A Tad Large, Should Be Fine With The Right Amount Of Power.

It is NOT acoustically dead. Tap on your box once and listen to it resonate and realize how ridiculous a statement that was. To the OP however, it really depends on your goals. There are plenty of useful absorbers that can be used in a box but without understanding your reasoning or knowing what exactly your box is it is dubious to even answer. If I could guess by assuming your goals I'd say you don't need it. Hmm. I Was Under The Impression That It Was The Deadest Material For That Purpose.

Probably Around 9.5 Cubic Feet Per Chamber.