BigCProductions99

You Gonna Let Me In On A Special Texas Boy Discount For One Of Those BOS's When You Get The SMD's? >_>

Well unless you steal my system, it kills people too Of Course It Does, It's Jesus Powered! (Sundown Ftmmfw) Screw Gun Control, We Need Bass Control. ....Actually, No. I Hate Those "noisefreeamerica" Retards. They Think A Sony Xplod On 250 Watts Is Loud. And They Say A Normal Car Stereo Produces 600 Watts Of Power. Erm...If I'm Correct, And I Know I Am, Most Stock Stereo H/U's Produce Around 7 - 20 Watts Per Channel RMS Or Less.

Another One. Watch This One The Whole Way Through. It's Sickening. They Call This Loud?

Neither. SAZ-3000D. But The SAZ-2000D Would Be Fine, Especially If You've Never Ventured In The Realm High Power Car Audio Such As This.

Oh, And That "noboomcars" Idiot That Posted That Video, Watch The Rest Of His Vids And Flame His Ass On His Channel, He Obviously Can't Deal With A True Car Audio Enthusiast And Closes Down The Comment Sections On His Videos.

Alan Dante, Eat Your Heart Out. You're A Genius, Btw.

That Would Be The Problem, 99% Sure That's Flux Core, And Low Voltage. And That Square Tubing Isn't Thick Walled, I'm Guessing. The Correct Way Would've Been To Lay Down Bent And Formed 1/8th Inch Strip Metal On The Roof Around 5 Inches Apart, Then Doing It Sideways, And Basically Welding A Frame To Actually Support The Square Tubing. I Would Have Also Added Braces From The Middle Of The Roof, On Each Side, Running To The B Pillars Made Out Of Square Tubing, Tacked It With Aluminum Roof Flashing Or 20 Ga. Sheet Metal, And Then Carpeting Over It So It Looked Nice. When You Weld Square Tubing To A Concave Surface, And It Isn't Formed, Especially Without Bracing, And With As Much Flex As You Have, Those Welds WILL Seperate. But, I Can't Ask You To Drive To Texas For Me To Do It.

...I Am Absolutely At A Loss For Words. It Shames Me That I Live In This State Now, But Thank God Not This Town. Killeen Cracks Down On "Bump Music"

Personally, I Don't Like Anything From Pioneer Besides Some Headunits, But To Each His Own. I'd Contact bkolfo4 Aka Brian. He's The Resident AA Dealer On This Forum, And A Damn Good Guy IMHO. What Model Components Are They, Anyway?

Get Two Dual 1 Ohm SSD's And A SAZ-1500D, And Since You Seem To Want Louder, And Will Probably Want It Ported, Get The Flatwind Coil And Just Get The BP Power For Higher Resale (Like You'll Ever Need Anything Else) And More Headroom. Because SAZ-1500D's Can Produce Around 1800 Watts RMS. And I Think The SSD's Sticky Thread Is In "Fi Technical".

...Tungsten And Heli Arc Are The Same Thing. Tig. And If You Can Actually Weld With A Mig On Gas, (Not Flux Core, I Hate That Shit.) That Wouldn't Happen. Doesn't Look Like He Used A 7018 Rod On Anything, But I Could Be Wrong. And That Reminds Me, I Need To Get A New Spool Of Wire And A Roller For My Lincoln SP-250 Idealarc. Anyone Have Any Ideas On A Little Ass Car I Can Throw A 21" Warden In For Pure SPL?

No Shit, 'Round Here Drivers In Opposite Directions Or Port In The Complete Opposite Direction Of The Woofers Means ....Uh...What's That Word?...Oh. CANCELLATION? But Really, That's Like The Silliest Thing You Can Do. Wall It Off Subs Driver Side Port Passenger Side. You'll Thank Me And Mister Termlab Later.

You Better Get An HO Alt Too, Or A Way Bigger Battery Than A 1125 CCA/CA, Preferably Both.

...Why Do You Want To Invert The Subwoofer? No, You Can't Hook Up Full Range Coaxials To A Mono Subwoofer Amp, You Can, But Uh, I'll Let You Figure Out Why Not To. (Get A SAX-50.4 Or The Like.) Do The Big 3. You Should Know How. Yes, Ground The Second Battery. Preferably To The Chassis. That Amp Will Actually Not Bring The BTL To It's Full Potential, But It's Alright. (That Amp Produces Around 2300-2400 Watts RMS @ 1 Ohm, What's Your Experience With Sound Systems, Is This Your First? If So, You Yourelf Won't Probably Be Able To Stand It Inside That Vehicle, That SAZ-2000D Will Be Enough For You.) Fuse BOTH Batteries. Wire The Batteries In Parallel. Run Your Power Wire From The Auxillary Battery To The Amp. Ground The Amp. Anything Else?

...Or You Could Just Add Another Sheet Of MDF On The Desired Mounting Spot Of The Box.

...I Lol'd.

Not Sure What Your Definition Of Sound Quality Is, But Coaxials In The Rear Damn Sure Don't Cut It. And I Think They Don't Make The Poly Anymore, They Went With A Carbon Fiber Cone. I'd Run Just A Set Of AA Carbon Mids/Tweets In The Front Doors, Ditch The Rears. Ascendant Audio Is The Dealer Based Operation Whereas Fi Is Direct Only. Ran And Owned By The Same People.

Go With Dual 2, Trying To Run .5 Ohm On That Amp Would Probably Fry It, Cooling System Or Not. If You Decide To Get Another BL Later On, Get It Universal And Get It Changed To D1 When You Order Your Next One.

That's A Hairy Question I Don't Really Want To Touch. Usually Less Drivers = More Sound Quality, The Size Issues On The Other Hand.... I Don't Really Think It Matters Between A 10" And 12" Personally. I Would Also Like To Apologize For Recommending Another Sub Manufacturer On A Fi Specific Board, That Was Rude Of Me. Gotta Give Credit To SSA Though, Even If I Am A Fi Diehard.

Happy Birthday, You Old Bastard.

Did You Use Stinger RCA's? That Would Be The Problem. Those And Memphis, And RF RCA's.

Here's A Better Question. Where The Hell Did You Get Two Of Only 24 Woofers Ever Made, And How Much Do You Want For Both?

Just To Let You Know, You Will See A Pure SPL Vehicle In The Future With Just One 21" Warden On About 20kw. Alan Dante Will Cry To His Master.

...arseho. :|

The "New Lines Coming Soon" Thing Is Always On The Website. The Only Thing That I Know It Pertains To As Of Now Is A Lower Powered Version Of The IB3 And 22" BTL And BL Variants. Go Ahead And Get The SSD If You Want, There's No Need To Wait, If You Do Wait, You're Just Wasting Your Time Being Subless.