antonmiller

hmmmm, thats just on the other side of the cities from me. we may have to meet up sometime. Where abouts? (to both of you) Invergrove Heights

If you put your EQ to -2 @ 60hz, then the signal shouldn't be down -8 @ 32hz. The signal @ 32hz may be down some, but it will be some amount less than -2 (the adjustment at the center frequency of the EQ). One thing you need to understand however is that there is no EQ on the market that will allow you to adjust individual frequencies. Every EQ has an Q factor. The value of Q tells you how wide of a bandwidth of frequencies will be affected by an adjustment made to the EQ at a given center frequency. The higher the Q, the narrower the bandwidth. So when you make an adjustment at 50 or 60hz, some range of frequencies above and below that frequency (the bandwidth depends on the Q) will be affected by the adjustment (the further from the center frequency, the less the signal is affected). So any EQ won't offer exactly what you want. An adjustment at one frequency will affect frequencies around it.....there's no escaping this fact. A parametric EQ allows you to adjust the Q factor as well as the center frequency of EQ bands. This would allow you a little more control over the effect of the EQ, but parametric EQ's generally have less EQ bands. So while their control is a little better, the give you less bands to play with. A graphic EQ has fixed center frequencies and Q factors, so there is less flexibility but they generally offer more bands. If you want "a lot" of control in the bottom 2 octaves, you'll probably have to go the route of a 1/3 octave graphic EQ. It would give you the most bands to contour the sound. A typical 1/3 octave graphic EQ that begins at 20hz would have center frequencies in the bass region of 20, 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63 & 80hz. Most parametrics will likely offer only around 2 bands of adjustment within the same 2 octaves. I'd also ask what subwoofer and enclosure you were using? A change in enclosure alignment may help partially solve the issues you are having aswell. Fixing some response issues related to the enclosure would reduce the amount EQ necessary to reach your target response. Well right now its the Fi car audio BL in a 2.5 cuft box with 42 sq inches of prt tuned to 34 hz. im will be putting the BTL in the same exact enclosure(designed for a BTL). the amp for the bl is the rockford t1500 and the amp for the BTL will be the sundown saz-3000. I dont think the question will be answered by me telling you what equiptment im using, just because I dont have an issue per say, just a want. I wish to turn down frequencies and boost frequencies at will, the standard 2 band eq for the sub range will not do. i wish to boost the bottom range, say 30-36, flatten out the middle sub range say 37-45 and turn down the 50-65 hz frequencies without having them be too quiet, if i set my LPF to say 50 hz then the 65 hz notes are a little bit quieter than i would like, and if i turn the LPF to say 60 hz then the 50 hz frequencies are anoyingly loud on music (rap/hip hop), at least with the BL the 50 hz notes heat up the woofer and cause me to be worried and i turn down the volume untill a lower note comes again. its just not really an issue, i know im overpowering the sub, but it takes it just fine around tuning, then at like 47+ it just gets all crazy. just not sure how to explain it. i thought maybe an EQ would help, but im not sure. just if anyone has an eq in mind that will allow some sort of tuning on the low end other than 32 and 60 hz i would appreciate it.

ive been looking there, but i dont know what im looking for. as in i have no clue whats good or bad. I like this one, but not sure if its a good one or not, i like the SPL display thing. that would help for testing on the fly...

do you think you could have fit bigger ones in there? not that oyu would need to i guess... those ones should be good nough. i just want a really strong hold on the sub. also installing 3 18" btl's in a jeep and want ot make sure the bolts wont snap. thanks

well i still cant find an eq that will do what i want it to do. what are the single frequency ones that m5 was talking about?

Hi all, i know that 1/4-20 will work, but will 5/16-18 bolts work? i will be using tee nuts and bolts to hold the sub in. the sub is the Fi Car audio BTL 12". basically just want the biggest bolt that will work. im sure there are plenty of people out there that can measure the mounting hole size and the rubber seal c'bore size. I just want to get the stuff on order and installe din the boxes before the sub gets here so its a quick intall. also i would assume the 18"s have the same sized mounting holes and c'bore in the rubber seal? Thanks in advanced, Anton Miller

I dont care if you guys bicker in my post, just as long as i get the question awnsered. lol. i like reading other people bicker back and forth. but i agree with m5, not many songs out there that have those low, LOW notes. a few, but not many. and a low note for like 1 sec shouldnt count. lol

hmmmm, thats just on the other side of the cities from me. we may have to meet up sometime.

IMO that is a waste of an eq. If there is nothing to fix there is nothing you need to control better. Plain and simple. On the other hand if you have issues with your response an eq can be a godsend. Without knowing what you want to address it won't be possible to recommend an eq. BTW, 25,30,45 won't really do you any better than 32 & 60. An adjustable Q & selectable single frequency eq would go much further towards helping than adding a band to the two you have. Well basically what i want is for the sub to play frequencies up to say 65 hz, but not as loud as they are now. so i want more control over the "boost" i guess. i know i can set the low pass filter and all that good stuff. but it doesnt give much control. I want to have say all frequencies from 50-65 hz to be at like -3 db then have the rolloff be at 65. not sure if im frasing this correctly or not. but if i set the 60 hz freq (with the 60 and 32 EQ) to like -3 then then it effects the 45 hz frequencies and all that, makes a slope of negative for a while, further than i want. and i want to do the same thing for lower notes as well. i wish to be able to boost or negative boost where needed. I have an oscope and know how to use it. just kind of wondering if there is such a thing out there. now you said selctable single frequencies, what do those do? sounds like what i want... Much better. Now what part of that doesn't it do now? well right now i just have the setting on the amp and the headunit's 7 band eq, which only one is for the sub (60 hz or is it 50? Cant remember). so if i turn the 50 or 60 hz one down it turns the lows down, not ideal in my situation. so i think it effects the "wave" or "slope" of the signal. so say if i put the 50 hz to like -2 then 32 hz would be at like -8 (not sure if this math is correct). but it sort of explains where im coming from. and say you had a 60 and a 32 hz adjustment. if you turned down the 60 wouldnt the signal be in negative db's untill it hit 32? then it would flaten out right? maybe my logic is wrong, but it seems to be right per an ear test. so refering to my last post, i wish to control certain frequencies with more "accuracy". like the 50-65 hz at - 3db signal and the rest would be a case to case thing depending on subwoofer movement/heating up and so on. just somthing to think about maybe. i may be way off on this and need to be set straight. IDK somtimes my logic is really bad. IDk if that gave you more info, but it took me a while to type it. lol, also i know my spelling is horrible. its late and im tired so....yea... Thanks for your time.

IMO that is a waste of an eq. If there is nothing to fix there is nothing you need to control better. Plain and simple. On the other hand if you have issues with your response an eq can be a godsend. Without knowing what you want to address it won't be possible to recommend an eq. BTW, 25,30,45 won't really do you any better than 32 & 60. An adjustable Q & selectable single frequency eq would go much further towards helping than adding a band to the two you have. Well basically what i want is for the sub to play frequencies up to say 65 hz, but not as loud as they are now. so i want more control over the "boost" i guess. i know i can set the low pass filter and all that good stuff. but it doesnt give much control. I want to have say all frequencies from 50-65 hz to be at like -3 db then have the rolloff be at 65. not sure if im frasing this correctly or not. but if i set the 60 hz freq (with the 60 and 32 EQ) to like -3 then then it effects the 45 hz frequencies and all that, makes a slope of negative for a while, further than i want. and i want to do the same thing for lower notes as well. i wish to be able to boost or negative boost where needed. I have an oscope and know how to use it. just kind of wondering if there is such a thing out there. now you said selctable single frequencies, what do those do? sounds like what i want...

not sure if its a needing to fix thing, more of a wanting more control thing. i would like an equalizer that has the most control over the signal. im not concerned about the mids and highs as much as i am the sub frequencies. i would like more options than just 32 and 60 hz. maybe like a 25 30 and 45? but idk how i would go about looking for and eq like that.

where in mn are you at? im in invergrove heights. trying to set up a team and forum for just mn guys to try to get a good competition/show base started in mn. basically just a place to find out when and where shows are. pm me if interested.

Hi All, Im in the market for a good EQ for my car. I want to control as much as possible without breaking the bank. im no where near sure what makes an EQ good or what a good price for one is. bassically i want to control the subwoofers frequencies. like from 25 to 80. im not sure if there is an EQ out there that has that capability, so thats why im posting. let me know. thanks, Anton Miller

just an update. i ordered the BTL. and installed both boxes. so far i cant tell a difference between the 2 but im still having over excursion issues. but hopfully the BTL reacts differently in these boxes then the BL. so here are some installed pics. please remember this is a temporary install. did no effort in hidding wires or making it look good. oh and ignore the giant scratch on the top of the tall box, had some issues getting it in the car. lol

ok for some odd reason my pdf hosting site isnt working. ill try again tomorrow.

when i get home ill post dwgs of all three boxes. but im pretty sure they are correct. but we will see.

well i know im overpowering it. the thing is it never had these excursion issues with the previous box. it was just fine before, but now its happening with both of the new boxes.... maybe the overpowering finally caught up with it. we will see if it happens with the BTL. If any one else has any idea why it would do this please let me know.

looke like you were putting a sona in at first. lol nice looking build. gives me some ideas for walling a vehicle.

sounds like alot of fun. i want to see pics and vids asap!

Hi all, I have 2 boxes that ive built and i am in the process of testing. ->build log here<- they both have the same interior volume and tuning and all that good stuff. so the internal volume is about 2.45 cuft with a tuning of ~34 hz with about 40 sq inches of port each. now i had a box that was 2.5 cu ft tuned to 34 hz with 39 sq inches of port and didnt get much overexcursion. so heres my problem. on low notes like 28-34 hz the sub barely moves and creates ALOT of sound, im very shocked by this. but when you get to like 36-40 hz the sub reaches its limits of excursion and anything above 40 its just bottom out city! im very scared about this because in the original box i built for the sub (when i dint know much about boxes) never did this! and bassically the only difference is that there is a little more port area and that its a kerfed port. i first thought, well maybe the suspension is just toast, but all the spiders seem to be in tacked, there is no coil rub, the sub is in very good condition, just very VERY loose when you push on it. just kind of need some ideas. the sub is the Fi BL and the amp is the Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BD rated for 1800 wrms at 1 ohm and im giving the sub a clean signal from the amp set with an oscope plenty of times, and yes i checked the signal and it is still clean. and the amp is set with 0db tones and set right before clipping all the way up the hz range. just not sure what is causing this over excursion.... maybe i should just buy a BTL and see if it does the same thing... Basically just looking for any insight into how or why it would be doing this. thanks for reading it as i know i went a little long on the explination. but more info is better than none. oh and the reason why im confused is that i thought if you played frequencies below tuning hat you would get crazy excursion, my case is that if you play anything above tuning you get crazy excursion. just dont get it... Thanks, Anton Miller

vid's dont mean shit, dont select a product on this basis. this is true. but i do try to do videos that show how loud it actually is... and no i am not running an 18 with a 12. lol thats just silly. its one 12, on 1800 wrms at 1 ohm. and the bl only weighs 35 lbs IIRC and i dont see any issue with doing what im doing with 2 12"s on 1200 wrms. it is a bigger car though...

why separate chambers? just a giant waste of air space. OP, what are your goals? easier to do separate chambers for getting the box(es) in and out of a trunk, i oculd easily have enough room in my little cavalier trunk for 3 10"s bl's separate chambered and all. but another good thing is bracing and this way everything is equal, none of this one sub is closer to the port opening compared to the other crap. just makes more sense. also with 3 10"s your going to have a pretty funky ohm load and your not going to get full potential out of the amp. so with 2 12"s at 1 ohm you would be using the most out of the amp. and let me tell you from experience, beating 2 15"s or a single 18 with 1 12" is very satisfying. lol, if you really wanna shock people.

are you just dead set on 3 or more 10"s? just one 12" sub could get you exactly where you want to be. i have friends that say exactly what your saying, but then when they hear my single 12 they say its too loud for what they want. so dont just think you need alot to achieve what your doing. so i dont think you need 3 10"s to get what you want. and i think it may be fairly dificult to have 3 10"s firing back and have room for a port on that same face, but idk the size of your trunk. My vote is 1 12" Icon or Fi Audio Q or BL.

hmmm, im thinking the exact oposite, last year they were all on that side, like madison and milwauke area. but none closer to minesota, one in the middle of the state but i cant remember where. The guy who runs all the wisconsin db drag shows in on ca.com, but i cant remember his name right now.

do the 3 10"s with subs and port forward. give then each there own chamber and port. I would use aero ports for the simplicity of them, 1 4" or 3" aero port per sub should do. just my .02$