antonmiller

another vid friday i will be testing on a term lab both boxes and will post the results.

Yea, I really wanted the ribs to touch each other, but it just didnt work out like that. Im satisfied with this. The radius was hard to control seeing as there was alot of play.

All right guys, thanks. I know what to do now! cheapest way is a ball point hammer and a hard place to pound, thats how i did mine (2/0). if you solder them, make sure to use silver solder, stronger and less electrical resistance.

sounds good. 1 problem though. That amp was my buddys and I just installed his system yesterday umm.... i have an saz-3000 sitting aorund, we can use that. problem solved

yea buddy like we said next step is to find out where you peak, gotta turn that box of yours into a sealed box and figure it out. that place down in mankato may have a TL that we could use till i get mine. im going to look into it. also we could move the subs around to find out where the best placement for the subs would be and try to optimize the design, this may take building a sealed box for one of the 15's you have...

you should use a 15 or 18" basket for a lamp shade! very nice tho looks like it was a fun project

more vids should be on the way, but its still damn cold here and just started snowing again.

he does already have buss bars, iirc they are .5" thk aluminum ones. alright, i updated my model, i used 57 inches for the depth. i ended up with 16.35 cuft after displacements tuned to ~35hz. giving us 5.45 cuft per sub. port changed from 5" wide by 41.25 to 5.5" wide by 40.25 to accommodate the box size change and wall thickness change. i did what you said shizzzon and did double wall 3/4" mdf all around except for bottom and port outside wall are single layer.

i like this one alot! all ill have to do is tell him to use wires instead of buss bars to connect the batteries (which i dont think would effect anything voltage wise). and ill have to take a trip up that way once he rips everything out of the truck to start the rebuild and see how much MORE room we can squeeze out of this thing. im going to update my model and see where the new dimension puts us at with the port and all in there and ill post the new results. again thanks alot. just thought of this if he still want to use buss bars, if we lay them on there side and stack them on top of each other i think we would gain some room as well. ill have to look up the width height and depth of the batteries to find out how much.

LOL, so true... i dont like the AQ amps, but they do rated power and are fairly good on the pocket book. i told him to go sundown, but hes set on these Audio Que's.

he mentioned that, but i dont believe we posses the skills to fabricate such a structure, and in mn we get some pretty nasty snow and rain, and the government likes to put salt down which might corrode the battery terminals or the rack itself. just so many possible solutions, ill have to consult with him later and see what he likes best for a solution. thanks for all your suggestions. keep them coming.

2 bl 10"s will handle it....

1" is custom ordered around here.

rear seats are gone, and hes set on the BTL's, i told him to try out the smd's when they come out or the 21" wardens. but he wants a btl. which i dont blame him, cuz i want one too. lol

is there a way to use one knob for all three? and i have an o scope, would that be better for doing it then using the clip light on the amp? also that still doesnt make any sence, if you take away 14 inches for 66 inches compared to 14 inches for 43.25 inches, the 66 inches is going to be a greater displacement than the 43.25. without batteries its:29.734 cuft outside dims, with batteries up front its:23.427 cuft outside dims, with the batteries on the side its: 20.109 cu ft outside dims. another way to try to squeez every last cu ft out of this, could we use 3/4" mdf instead of 1" mdf? just trying to get within Fi's specs of 5-10 cu ft per sub. dang this is just a mind teaser. here is the false floor that he built, it has the dims on it and everything. but its 18" high is the tallest from what he tells me, i havent actually gone back to take a board and see if the subwooferes surround is at window line or not. also i told him to put the batteries where the back seat persons feet would be, but he didnt like that idea for some odd reason.

the only thing i dont like about running the smaller ones is that you would almost have to match the gains wouldnt you? or put each sub in its own chamber so they dont get any sort of cancellation. but i agree about the resale factor. ok could you possible draw a picture or somthing about how you where thinking about doing the batteries (along the side) cause im not seeing it gaining 3 cu ft, so im thinking that i dont have it visualized correctly.

mainly daily, just wants to compete in the no wall class when there is a comp. not too many competitions around here in mn, maybe 3 a year for db drag. and i think he peaked low, like 38-40 hz some where in there, so maybe tuning low wont hurt that much? we do need to figure out where he peaks though. and hes going to be using either the AQ20K or 3 AQ 3500.1D (new style)

ok, it took me longer than expected to try to fit these bad boys in there, but in the end of all this, i got 14.5 cu ft tuned to about 34.25 hz, after all displacements. the port is 5" x 41.25" x 18.26", we will be using 1" mdf (could we use .75"?) double baffle on top (2"). the 3 subs will be equally spaced in a triangular fashion, on a 19" diameter "bolt circle". now my questions are, how big of a difference will porting up be compared to porting back? what would/could be effected? if i missed some info please let me know.

Hi all, I'm working on a design for 3 18" BTL's for a jeep grand Cherokee, the hard part about this is that he wants to run the vehicle in the "no wall" class for db drag, meaning that you cant have any part of the audio above the window line. so this creates a space issue. he also is going to be using about 6 Power master D3100 batteries. so that takes up some of the space. the space we have to work with is 66" deep x 43.25" wide x 18" or under tall. now the batteries (which will be connected with buss bars) will be in front of the box. this will take about 14 inches of the depth, so that leaves us with 52 inches. now if you try to port firing backwards that takes away another 10-15 inches for the hatch to not block the port or act as an extension of some type. so thats where i came up with if we can port upwards we will gain that extra 10-15 inches back and can get more internal volume for the box. now im basically asking the box designers out there, "what would you do?". i will be working on getting a 3d model/drawing completed here in the next hour or so, i just wanted to post this before i started working on it. Thank you for your time, Anton Miller

i dont see it being too big of an issue, but who knows. i mean 3 18"s off the new aq competition amp should be sufficient to do this, but again we will find out.

his goal is over a 155 on music. with out a wall, running in the no wall class

wow... this info just rocked my brain, it will take a while for this to settle in

anyway you could elaborate on this?

I heard from some one that it makes the bass a little more muddy and unclear if you use alot, but that doesnt make any sense to me... also i believe it helps remove some more resonence of the already "resonance dead" MDF. but IDK, this should be a good discussion. i know that adding wooden dowels and fiberglassing the inside of my box added me .3 DB going from 144.3 to 144.6, but thats all i know.

I have the same goals you do and i went to school for product design and engineering technologies and plan to continue and get a mechanical engineering degree some time. in a while i plan on opening up an audio shop, well mainly an install shop, seeing as i realize that not many people want to buy car audio goods from a car audio shop (too expensive). start out in your garage in your spare time and maybe grow to something bigger as you get your name out there (also what im currently trying to do ). I know there is a school in Canada somewhere and one in Arizona IIRC, IDK the names tho, the best school is experience, apply for the job at best buy and see where it goes. I got denied an installing job at best buy because i didn't have any certifications or anything like that, they didn't even bother to call they just sent an email (damn paperless way of applying there, they don't even see your face before saying yes or no to an interview).