antonmiller

do you want it to sound good or get loud? or do oyu want both? from my understanding it goes like this: Q series is for Sound Quality BL Series is for Getting Loud BTL Series is for Getting even louder, yet staying clean the whole time. but i dont know since ive only heard a bl and a poorly set up Q. so yea. im not sure.

i believe the BTL is more musical. thats what i hear any ways, ive never heard one tho. so i dont know. and if its going in a trunk, then your probly going to have to face everything forward towards the cabin, just because you dont want to be choked up in the trunk. but i dont know how big of a trunk those cars have. so i may be talking out of my ass on this one...

it will sound like some one is is grabbing an air hose hooking it directly to your ear and firing it(ear pressure)! most likely it will feel like some one is kicking you in the chest! lol. But my bl i feel is very musical, if it wasnt for all the rattles of my rear deck and so on. it would sound extremely well. but like some one said above it will pound either way, you cant go wrong. But for some more knowledge on how to help you is what kind of a vehical will these be going into? and is the 4.5 cuft before or after displacment of port and sub?

mine wasnt consistantly wrong. it was every song and tones it would go to 126.5. idk might have just been mine....

did you test the amp output power while they are playing? it has to be the amp. especially if a 12" p2 on 200 watts was louder.... as soon as you get the amp working properly your going to shit your pants on how loud this is. lol

that meter is way off. the highest ive ever gotten mine up to is 126.5 db.... term lab says 145 lol WAY OFF!!! but you can try it!

yea i would start low since the port will be its longest when its tuned low. so if oyu start around 30-32 hz and go up form there it should be easy. say you stick 7-10 inches of the pvc in the box and leave the rest external you can just cut off on the outside until you find the right tuning (like M5 said). just keep working it down until you find the highest peak. do you have access to a db meter for this tuning? its going to take a lot of time to find the perfect conditions and box placement and tuning and everything.

aero ports are easiest for adjustable tuning. or just round ports..

thanks man.... when i first mounted the woofer, i left about 5 inches from the edge incase i wanted to cut it down to the 7.7. but i was unsure if i would be losing or gaining anything. i think i will do that tomarrow. do you think corner angle braces would be needed? like these -> https://www.hardwareworld.com/Zinc-Corner-Brace-115bc-3-x-3--4-inches-pEC0UCY.aspx instead of cutting, add a board inside to change the volume, try some 2 x 4"s to lower the box volume that way your not cutting the box down then figuring out that its not what you wanted, then youd have to rebuild or put some really good bracing if you wanted to put the piece you cut off back on....

fiberglass a box in the trunk like behind the wheel well. im not sure if there are any build threads on this site. but i have one form a j-body site i go on: click it thats what i would suggest to you

yea you puss lets get this going!!!! do i need to come up there and do it for you??? lol

lexan is strong stuff. i would go with that if you can afford it. its close to bullet proof IIRC.

good luck to you! what equiptment you gunna try to do it with? 2 12"s 2 10"s? like 4 8"s? lol

Its a great program for free. but if you do alot of this 3d modeling solidworks is much better. but it costs alot of money....

not impressed if its with 4 15"s....

about time you moved up in the world and joined a good forum. lol did you get to test your system yet?

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link. if you use a multimeter and use a 20 hz sweep while doing it. your ac voltage should peak at 20 hz which is right away. ive set my gain with a dmm using a 20 hz tone then set it using an oscope and the wave was clean the entire sweep, and i could actually turn the gain up a little. actually after thinking about it for a little bit that if you set with a dmm and you use the frequency that your subsonic filter is set to then it would be most accurate. Why would you want to use a tone at your subsonic filter frequency? You do know that the frequency of a filter is the -3db point, not just the start of the slope off, right? no i did not know that.... i always thought it was the point as to where the slope started. then figuring out where the slope starts at would be the most accurate hz then IMO. it just makes sense. thanks for telling me that.

also make sure the blet is on TIGHT! otherwise youll get slippage under load.

Turn the bass boost off and turn the gain up some (but i suggest you use a DMM to set the gain accurately). Turn the Loud/Loudness feature off on head unit and Bass Boost/Extend Off as well. ok will do! thanks guys. edit: i heard setting gains with dmm was not an accurate method and that setting them with an o-scope was the only true way. here's a youtube clip of why you shouldnt set with a dmm. <---- Click the link. if you use a multimeter and use a 20 hz sweep while doing it. your ac voltage should peak at 20 hz which is right away. ive set my gain with a dmm using a 20 hz tone then set it using an oscope and the wave was clean the entire sweep, and i could actually turn the gain up a little. actually after thinking about it for a little bit that if you set with a dmm and you use the frequency that your subsonic filter is set to then it would be most accurate.

they are on sale at db-r for like 25% off... i might even pick up a mids and highs amp as well.. cheap enough.

The price of a refurb SAZ3000 is like 566$ so the price is vurtually the same. and the reason i want the power at 12 volts is for db drag events. (the only type of comps in my area) and i can only have 1 battery for my class... but from what im seeing and reading the sundown is probly for me. being as it will put out more power at 12 volts... thanks shizzzon for your input.

pressed in threaded inserts with 1/4-20 socket head bolts. check out mcmaster carr for these things.

that looks rediculous! prices?? lol

figure out the thread and order a screw. i like to order my od ball stuff form mcmaster carr. also a good place for threaded inserts for mounting subs! and if its a set screw you can get them there as well. they have everything.

LOL! seriously? is DB-r a good company to deal with? and is there some sort of warranty? and it looks like the saz 3000 will be the choice... however if anyone has anything bad to say about either one it owuld be greatly appreciated. for example i love my RF 1500-1bd but i hate that it doesnt have an adjustable SSF. those are the things im looking for here. is there one or 2 little things about each amp that annoys you? like you hate that the rcas and the power is on the same side or vise versa? just little things like that. i know both amps will perform almost the same. its all about the little things i guess... thanks