antonmiller

ok so i think im just going to build box boxes and see which one perfroms better and then report back here when the results are done. so ive design up 2 boxes both tune to 34 hz with about the same port area. and they box have almost the same interior volum they are off by about .06 cu ft (like nothing). so first here is the top gap box that i design its port is 11.25 high x 3.75 wide x 32" long and the interior volume is 2.4 cu ft. it will leave a gap of about 3.5" by around 20-23 inches long on the top. it also features a 2x4" on the back of the box for support as i couldnt get a support inside the box... next is the side gap box. its port is 14.5 high x 2.875 wide x 32" long. it has 2.46 cu ft internally and will leave about a 8-9"" gap by 10-15 inches tall (angled sides) on the driver side. it also has a nicley rounded edge for that side of the box, i would assume it would help with flow. please all comments and concerns welcome i just want to do it right.

it will help for flow, and from what i know better flow equals better spl....

ok for the Kinetic HC2000 it fits in the 650 cu inch category, but is it a standard 6 cell battery? im asking because i dont know where else to find this info out with out talking to kinetic them selves. thanks

no.... i really should, but i hate to ask people to do me a favor. none of my friends really are into the audio scene so i usually go alone ot comps and i really dont like to ask strangers for a favor.... would its help to hold the trunk down?

sounds like my box i have right now, and its super choked off. ill snap some pics tomarro. i know it could go closer to the trunk lid, but not much before hitting 5-6inches away. but ill get some pics tomarro. thanks for the help

its going to be a daily tune of 34 hz. i just want to know how i should let the sub breath into the cabin, how much space to i need between box and side of opening to be ample area for air to eisily go in and out of the trunk to the cabin. top or side opening?

you might want to list them as your prices instead of this, cause this kind of tunred me off the products. list your prices! lol

Hi, I am curious as to what the best way it is to have the system not be choked up in a trunk. currently my box leaves about 4-5 inches of room between it and the side of the opening that goes into the cabin from the trunk. so thats the only gap there is between the trunk and the cabin, unless you count the rear deck, but that doesnt let much air through. so im designing a new enclosure to fix this problem, now my question is, is it better to have space for air to flow above the box or on the side of the box? this will be for a sinlge 12" BTL, and if i do it with the airspace above the box i will have about 3 inches tall by around 28-30 inches wide of a gap between the sub box and the top of the opening, and if i do it on the side, i will have about 10 inches wide by about 16 inches tall (give or take some area because of angle side pieces). basically witch way should i do it? or should i try both and test? i just want to do it right, this time im going to seal off the rear deck so its no floping around so much like it is now, so there wont be any where for air to get through that anymore. oh and if i didnt mention it the sub and port will be facing the trunk lid and my rear seat folds down. ill try to get some pics up later. any help or suggestions, or even theories will help me. thanks

what about banners? are you guys going to be getting any of them?

ok so i was told by some one on another forum to try to put the battery sidways first and see if it will fit that way. i was just wondering if anyone has put a battery sidways? is it safe?

thank you for that. i knew there should be a way to figure it out, but i couldnt think of it. doing the circumference thing sounds like a good way to do it. thanks again!!

link, read section 6-8i "The primary battery must be located in the same general area as the OEM battery location. (For example, if the OEM battery location is under the hood, the primary battery must be located under the hood as well. Aftermarket battery trays and/or custom fabricated battery brackets may be installed provided no other applicable rules are violated.)" quoted from above. ill try to get some pics this week end. but it is a pain in the ass to get my battery out, so i might just try to get some with the battery in there. i hope those kinds of pics will help. Thanks

all right i just reread the DB Drag rules. and I cant have the battery mounted in the trunk. big bummer. now i need suggestions to get about a half inch of hieght out of my stock battery tray. how do i go about modifying my battery tray to fit a HC2000?

Hi SSA Members, Im looking to do a single battery in the trunk of my 1997 chevy cavalier, i will be running a single aq3500 with a single 12" Fi Audio BTL. now i already have a high output alternator that does 200 amps max and 90-100 at idle. and i have a battery up front (yellow top) that will go away so i conform to the rules of DB drag of a single 650 cu inch battery. now all i need is the battery. The only one ive seen so far that i think meets the rule is the Kinetic HC2000. But im not an electrical mastermind and quite frankly i have no idea how to get a good electrical system going. so i need a battery, and maybe some hints as to how to do the single battery in the trunk without one up front. as well as some good advice for grounding it all off. Thanks, Anton Miller

^^this^^, i would also like any tips on kerfing if possible. like how deep did you cut and what was the spacing, as well as the final radii? thanks

more info on the amps? i was looking at the 200.1, like prices and straped specs like actual bench testing?

there is no reason to tune to 20 hz. music does not go that low generally, a 28 hz tuning would be great for music. and since your subsonic filer kicks in at 28 hz it is perfect. Is there any other reason to tune your box to 20 hz other than the fact that your amp can produce sound at 20 hz?

I personally dont think 3-10"s would shock people, what really shocks people is high scores put up by small equipment and not that much power or small equipment and alot of power. Whats shocking is someone doing over 150 with 2-10's like Thorshammer on this forum does and now since that is done, I cant wait to see someone start getting high db read outs from some 8" subwoofers (that should be what one wants to gear themselves toward if they just want to shock people). just my .02 ok so maybe it wouldnt shock people on the internet, but here in Minnesota, people are shocked by my single 12, imagine how shocked they would be by 3 10"s on twice the power. but i think ill stick with the BTL Goal like stated....

3 10"s just sounds like more fun.... i dont wanna be like half the rest of the people around here and have 2 12" subs, i think 3 tens would shock people and be somthing not too many people do. but i think I AM A stick with my original goal and stay in street a with 1 12" BTL.

if i decide to do this i think im going to have to go with the bl's. basically i was just wondering what subs would be the best for gorund pounding the lows and also getting very loud ata round 40-45 hz for comps? is there some subwoofer i havent heard of that will out perform the bl's?

if you go above those recomendations, then the subs may not react to the power very well. the larger the box the less power the sub can handle due to over excursion and bottoming out. like said before stick with 1.75 cu ft per sub.

ok so im starting to think that i should move up into class street b, just because there is more competition aorund here for that and im sick of not competing against anyone (that is except like a single 12" type r), so right now i have 1 12" fi audio bl in the trunk of a cavalier, tuned to 34 hz on 1800 wrms. what i want to do is be very competitive in street b for db drag. however i really want it to be a ground pounder and hit those lows, so i was thinking a 28-30 tune for daily and a 40-42 hz tune for comps. but what i really want to know is which ten inch subs should i go with? the ones that pop into my head are fi bl, fi q, dc sumthing, or audio que hdc3. i dont know, maybe im missing somthing here. budget isnt a question as this is still in the conceptual stage, but try to keep the subs under 400 a piece. oh and itll be ran off of 1 aq 3500. (or equivelant) thank you,

no problems in one of these boxes, the only thing i would be concerned about is port noise, but in one of these there shouldnt be any...

everything is about the same, but the motor on the BTL is a little stronger, according to the T/S parameters.

you can run each coil out to the amps pos and neg, it parraleled inside. or just bridge it across the terminals.