dlink

coolio, thanks.

Title is self explanatory. What is the star (*) for on the RMS wattage on the BL series?

seems like its been more often than that. Oh well

Every other day it is "IPS Driver Error". Its annoying

gotcha, thanks

when would the payment need to be made by? I don't get paid for 2 weeks...

forward to my gmail dlinkwit2700 (remove the last two zeros). friggin bots i'll fix it for ya (i'm bored) MEGA BUMP!

Didn't read any of the posts, didn't need to. 1) 1080p or you will be kicking yourself 20 minutes after you try to watch your first bluray who cares if you dont watch now, eventually you will. you won't have a choice. 2) lcd > plasma hands down. plasma sucks. its dying for a reason. get a samsung LN46A550. 1300$. Shoot me a PM I can get you a pretty decent deal on it (I think around 1170+tax). Here is a trade secret. Most Samsung TVs are made in the same factory as the Sonys. They are the same TV until they are ~90% done, then they split and get different labeling. WHen you buy a Sony, that few hundred more you are paying is for the "Sony" sticker on the front.

Norton is crap, Avast is the best. Google it, use the free home version. Put the pics on a flash drive, use avast to scan before moving to your new tower if you are paranoid. Chances are the virus/trojan is on some system files, not picture files. Protection for the novice (noobs): 0) Enable WEP on your router 1) Avast 2) Spybot 3) PeerGuardian* 4) Firefox 4.1) adblock plus 4.2) no script 5) Stop hitting "yes" and "ok" to every window that pops up online. You will be fine. * If you don't want to bog down your computer with another program, you can change your Hosts file. c:\windows\system32\drivers\etc\hosts open that with notepad. copy and paste everything here >> http://www.mvps.org/winhelp2002/hosts.txt and paste it OVER what is in notepad. save. enjoy.

I've never been a fan of text. I always liked a simple symbol representing a company. Apple, Nike, Adidas, etc. I thought of a combo radiation symbol with sound waves. Thought I'd throw a box in one for the enclosures. I's midnight so my creative juices are a bit slow tonight. One thing to be careful about with text also is licensing of the font. PNG quality sucks (tried to get trans) but you get the idea. Colours easily changed, very resizeable.

I don't know if I can beat the fist, but I'll try

12v Electronics I Purchased a lightly used set of HAT L61-2. They will not be installed until later this year, so I cannot comment on condition of the speakers, but upon initial inspection they seemed to be in pristine physical condition. The L6s were individually packed in their original boxes with original packing materials. The heft of these boxes made me reminisce of days past when I used to lift heavy rocks to toss into the local watering hole to watch the waves they would make. The L1s were included, paired in their original box. I held them gently, as you would a butterfly, half expecting them to fly onward. They arrived mere days after the purchase was completed in a small cardboard box. The box was rectangular, but not perfectly cubic. It was professionally packed with pink packing peanuts. The kind of pink that makes you think of a baby girl's room. As for Tom, while we spoke only via PM, it was easy to imagine him sitting at his computer chair, typing more than just a 5-o'clock shadow gracing his lower jaw, speaking in his deep, soothing voice, allowing any concerns of purchasing speakers to slide away like the tide on the late-afternoon beach. His gentle demeanor allowed him to wait patiently as I dug through the couch cushions in order to fund the transaction. In short, the only way I could be happier with the transaction would be if they sent perhaps a little person along to pleasure me while I type this review. Bravo 12v Electronics! Bravo! I hate boring reviews

Actually, the thread says ~20 = approx 20. Granted he should have more closely rounded to ~15 ft, but still, caveat emptor, you should have asked for an exact measurement.

I win? I stump you all?

I read as "those" as "these" Sorry. :x

damn and I thought my Yaris was small

Why can't he get a 9887 new? There are plenty of places online. Crutchfield has them in stock, and for 400$. That's nearly 25% less than the price of the 9255

You didn't answer the question. If you are willing to go more expensive, there may be a better amp out there for 300. Or is 210 the max of your budget? Without knowing this, you won't get an answer because we don't have enough information to make a useful suggestion.

Here is a review of the CD7200 > http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47012 And one of the 9887 >> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22136

I personally went with Alpine myself, but I've not used it yet. Here is a side-by-side of the two units: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/ProdCom...Items=099CD7200 My main reason was price. I got my 9887 for 285 US$. Based on the research I did when I was deciding, I doubt you'd be unhappy with either unit. The Eclipse comes with more features standard but you can get the extra components for the 9887 on ebay for wicked cheap. iPod cable is like 15 bucks max, for example. The eclipse also has more EQ bands (11 vs 7). I've heard mixed reviews on Alpines Time alignment technology (imprint). I've heard consistently 4 things, 2 bad, 2 good Works great for beginners but audiophiles might want to do more tuning themselves Can lack bass but this can be fixed with a proper amp or bass settings A description of the eclipse time alignment technology. It involves uploading information to a website or program, and from what I have found, you just bass the adjustments off of measurements of distance. http://central.sounddomain.com/sd/features/ECL.htm but I can't tell if you have a mic or what

Simple enough neh? "sure if you know what it means" I am not saying that you messed up. I am however saying I think you need to understand the basics. ohms of a speaker and it's relationship to the amp you want to run. sealed vs ported and what maybe right for your desired install how many amp channels needed to run your speakers blending a sub to your front stage these are some of the things that I have had a hard time understanding what you know. like I said maybe it is me not completely understanding what you are trying to convey. try to stick to one subject. make a decision then move on to the next just my .02 cents What I "know." I quote it because it very well could be wrong. Concerning boxes - sealed boxes generally result in higher SQ. For more SPL, ported is the way to go. Why this is (insofar the usefulness of the rear driver) as isn't all that important except to understand that the air in the sealed box is for the most part stagnant. This produces no sound from the rear driver. For a vented/ported box this is not so. By allowing an escape route for the air, the rear driver of the woofer is able to contribute to the sound. By contribute, I don't mean add to the sound, but rather replace sound. The size and shape of the port allows you to replace frequencies that would be produced by the cone, since the cone output is reduced in a ported box. This allows you the opportunity to "tune" the frequencies you hear by modifying the port size. The downside of this is that by "tuning" the woofer, you can reduce the number of frequencies that it can effectively reach, which is what reduces SQ. Furthermore, the ported box, by allowing the driver reduces distortion at high volumes and decrease power handling, which allows the sub to more easily reach lower frequencies. In short, in order to reach the same dB level, the sealed box takes more power than the vented box. Mind you, though, that the sealed has better power handling of lower frequencies. The ported is better able to handle higher frequencies, though. The electrical is where I get a bit lost, but from what I have found, this is my understanding thus far (I wish I paid more attention in physics): Ohm is tantamount to resistance. The lower it is, the less current it uses. A 4 ohm speaker requires less power than an 8 ohm. Half as much, to be precise. I = V/R & I = V/Z (Ohms laws). In any case, matching Ohms helps bring about maximum voltage transfer from the source (amp) to the load (speaker). After that it gets really fun . A 4-channel amp is the proffered way to drive 4 speakers, but is not the only way. Using the L6 (4 ohm) and L1 (8 ohm) I could wire them in either parallel or series on a 2-channel amp. This would put either a 2.67 (parallel) or 12 (series) ohm load on each channel. Parallel schemes allow more power to the speakers, so better sound, but require more power from the amp. Series wiring puts less load on the amp, but you obviously get less output from the speakers then less sound. Furthermore, I could use a 4-channel to power the all 5 speakers by running a wiring scheme on two channels for the L6+L1, then bridge the remaining two channels for the sub. But this is complicated and initially warrants as much attention as a bandpass box, which is noticeably absent in the first paragraph, but later inspection, using one of Ohm's law shows how beneficial bridging can be. Without going through the math, (inversion and whatnot) bridging can nearly quadruple the wattage of a "channel" to a speaker. This means one could purchase a 2-channel 150 W amp @ X ohms and push nearly 600 W to a sub. The good news? Why buy a 600W D amp when you can get a 150 2-channel to do the same thing! The bad? This may slightly increase distortion and will increase current (double it actually). This current increase can cause damage to the amp, so the amps are generally rated safe at double the ohms. That is, an amp that is 150 W stable at 2 ohms would be 600 W stable at 4 ohms. As for blending a sub into my front stage: This one is actually pretty simple, and I am embarrassed that it slipped my mind. The L1 tweeter has the ability to cover 3,000

sealed box, not ported, going SQ

dammit you beat me before my edit.

I am trying to learn I really am! What have I screwed up this time? I want a system that sounds good at all volume levels. I want a 10" sub because I don't want to lose all that much storage space, I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right but then I found that sealed is better for SQ, and I am going with the IDX to better blend, so sealed would actualyl be "right" for me http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html for example. Please tell me what else I am missing and I will do my best to google the info or better explain myself. IM me. add a "wit27" to the end and there is my AIM name and I will gladly talk in real time to whoever is willing to in order to better smooth out this debacle of a build attempt. And I thought Abstract Algebra and Discrete Mathematics was hard... (actually discrete was pretty easy, and Abstract wasn't bad, but you get the idea ) Simple enough neh?

Ok, going the 4 and 2 route, I haven't done much research beyond pricing, but here are some options. The greener, the cheaper. Bold are within 5% of the cost of the PDX-5 (360). Bold & Italic are those that are less than the PDX-5. Excel is my bitch