Solid_State13

I think they are different enough that it may not be the best idea

pretty sure you are supposed to only measure the straight part of the port (ie don't include the length of the flare(s))

wow, didn't know these would get such good response. Most of what I've heard about these has been more about the company, and not all of it good. But if the woofer is good, then go for it, especially at a good price EDIT: anyone know what kinda enclosures the 18's like?

what Fi said, BL for loud, Q for sound quality. but neither is a one trick pony

You Should Do A Bandpass With About 16 Of Them. Lmao. add like 15kW and... :slayer: :slayer: :slayer: :slayer:

what about porting through the rear deck?

with 3000 watts, hes probably gonna need more than a red top and big 3, unless hes gonna keep it turned down real low most of the time

well it sounds like ur happy, so it doesn't really matter if you got it exactly to specs

Fi BTL 18 DC Lvl 4XL 18 IA Death Penalty 18 or 21 or you could try using multiple smaller subs like 12's or 15's of the Icons or Xcons, or even like 8 10" Dcons

why not go with an HDC3 15 instead of a 12?

can you still get those? i can't see them in the SSA shop

What about the W8 740P? it will work in like .25-.3 cubes and get really low http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-854 the W69-1042J will need about .6 cubes, and at RMS will probably be only about 0-1dB louder than the W8, but will be approaching mechanical limits. the W8 will handle some more power mechanically

jeez.... people get so worked up on these forums. threads are never productive when people get angry The Q would be the closest to the Icon. they are both SQ drivers that can handle a lot of power, get loud, and play low but like Wenn was saying, it is a pointless question

Ouch, someone is going to read that and blow their sub. Personally if you are asking the question you should start out on the low end of things and see how that goes, not fun to blow something. i agree, just start off at 1000. you can always bump up the power later if you aren't satisfied

i wouldn't do it. they are probably nearly identical inside, i mean the 2 companies share a website

at least do the doors, that will help your mids too. if you are doing a high powered sub install, doing the roof, floor, etc will help. look at damplifier or damplifier pro, that would probably be a good place to start, definitely do at least one layer on the doors, maybe a layer on the roof. what products you use and how much depends on how much work you wanna do and how much money you want to spend. you can do as little as one layer of damplifier lite on the doors to multiple layers of damplifier pro+luxury liner pro+spectrum sludge on everything

anyone???

build a ported box for them you can snag a dayton 18 off of partsexpress for less than $100, put that in ur room

that seems like a little much to ask of a bargain amp, bridging into 1 ohm means they need to be 1/2 ohm stable stereo

welcome thats awesome that you can be one of 2 people in the country to have Fi

ok, for setting gains with the DMM method, do i use 0dB tones, or can i get away with using, say -6dB or -3dB tones? I've heard recommendations for using as much as -6dB tone (that seems a little much to me) so i guess what I'm asking is how loud does most music get? does it regularly hit 0dB, or more like -3, -6, etc?

unless you are going for numbers, i would say Xcon (this is without experience with the drivers). i mean even if the DC's are capable of a few more dB's, both setups are going to be stunningly loud. so unless you plan on listening to your setup at full tilt on a regular basis, i would go with the extra sound quality. just my $.02

if you want the easiest, safest route, go with the 15 sealed. the box will be really easy to make and hard to screw up. you also won't have to worry about a subsonic filter or bottoming the subs out going with a 12 and porting it will give you great output and allow you to tune the sound to your preference by playing around with box size and tuning. it will also save you a few bucks on the woofer. the downside is that you will need a good box design and you will have to be a little more careful building it, and you will have to be careful of bottoming the sub out/set your subsonic right

good call. If you decide to go with the 187's, then you most likely won't be disappointed, even if they end up being a couple dB quieter. I would say go for it, and if you liked the Dcons better, then take them back and give ur gf the 187's

maybe you should keep the XXX for a little while and see if you can trade it for like a nightshade or DC LVL5 or LVL4 XL or an HDC3 15 or 18