Solid_State13

nope, going for fairly flat response. i won't even be running the full RMS power of the woofer (at least initially), so cooling really shouldn't be an issue. i just figured that i might as well do it right in case i decide to run more power in the future Then I'd point the ass of the driver into the space that is most convenient for the box that will probably end up being the ported side, since i need to make a removable panel so i can get the sub out if i need to. unless a removable panel is a bad idea? i figure it should seal fine with some speaker gasket tape and plenty of screws

he could be doing worse than crunch or hifonics. but you should lose the cap, unless you really like how it looks. get a second battery or upgrade ur alt if you need more electrical reinforcement. but you should be fine if you are just running a couple hundred watts

nope, going for fairly flat response. i won't even be running the full RMS power of the woofer (at least initially), so cooling really shouldn't be an issue. i just figured that i might as well do it right in case i decide to run more power in the future

welcome man

yea, i agree. if you want people to hear you, don't use sound deadening. do you want this to sound good, or just make noise? you could get creative with a BTL 12 and a 6th order bandpass to make a 1 note wonder, then drive around with a test tone on repeat

k cool, good to know. does a bandpass really hide distortion?

ok, thats what i thought. and i think those amps should do rated, so i should be ok. I wouldn't be too worried, except that my brother uses the car a fair amount, and he probably won't notice clipping if i set the gains too high. guess i will need to find someone with an o-scope

anyone?????

as of now my gains are set to the max preout voltage of my headunit (just got a dmm the other day), so pretty conservatively. but now that I am going to set them more aggressively with the dmm, i want to make sure not to send a clipped signal to either my mids or subs, but for both, i'm going to be using the full rated RMS of my amps. so my question is: is there any way to know if my amps will be able to do rated without clipping? if you just have to guess based on the amps, the amps are: a TMA 320.4 (4-channel from JL's entry level brand) and a Massive P1000.1 (at 4 ohms) no, i don't have an O-scope

i would go with the audioque, unless you can get a good deal on a sundown

i think sundown is gonna get top pick here it may not be the cheapest, but if you plan to use the amp for a long time, then you will probably spend less by getting one that will last instead of having to pay for repairs or replacements for a cheaper amp

holy @#$% that looks insane

lmao

in a 4th order bandpass, is it generally better to have the magnet in the ported section or the sealed section of the box? it seems like you would get added cooling from having it in the ported side, but would the motor obstruct airflow to the port?

holy electrical system batman

looks real nice man

just get a good, solid 10 or 2 8's and put it in an optimal enclosure. better then spending money on 3 12's only to get the result of 1 10 EDIT: and to your original comment about excursion, its probably a combination of small sealed boxes, the amount of power you are feeding them and the subs themselves not being capable of very much excursion

yea, thats legit, its used as the tweeters for these ridiculously expensive speakers (scroll down to the second to last one) http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/711/the-w...friend-to-shame looks like it would be hard to do right

if you watch the excursion and set your ssf, you will probably be fine. but if you have to keep the same box for now, them you might just want to leave the HDC3 in there until you can build the right box for the ns.

that should still hit the lows fine if you bump up the tuning a little to low-mid 30's, but i guess that depends on what you mean by lows

nice man, thats really exciting, 8dB is a HUGE gain where did you score a new lvl 4 12 for 100 bucks?

i vote for the jbl's, they have a pretty good sensitivity and decent xmax

wow man, this looks intense. like the buckets for ports. I vote for blowing the windshield out with music, i think that brings it up to 1,000,002

ummm. why don't you save the magnet and recone it to a 15 or 18

agreed. There are a lot of variables that come into play. an enclosure that looks flat in modeling software will most likely be far from flat when put into a car