ANeonRider

$4200 speaker bullets.

Parallel so that your voltage isn't 24V...

Correction.

Series = Sum the voltages Parallel = Sum the currents

blue ribbon

t-18 min

To some. Some also pay $150 for a 3" length of 3.5mm cable for their Ipod.

I'm not clicking the link since Photobucket doesn't work at work. What car? Really need to know that before we can suggest any equipment to integrate with the stock source.

x2. I finally said enough & took 4 hours on Saturday to get music back in my car.

Made for the short people.

Ya, I've been away for a while... busy with the new house, but... I do have an update on the Spec V: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...&start=210#

So, finally got around to getting a source back into the Spec V this morning. Bought a Rockford Fosgate factory premium head unit to be my signal source. Comes with 4 6V balanced outputs, AUX input (for my Ipod), CD changer (not used), and less likeliness of being removed from my car & causing $6000 in damage. The head unit came with a stock wiring harness, which I was able to use so that I didn't have to cut any factory wiring. I also picked up a C701 controller with the insurance money to control my H701. Since the RF factory stereo package comes with an external amplifier, the head unit has a 12V amplifier turn on output. Unfortunately the current that this output can source is very low, so I had to use a PAC TR-7 to allow myself the ability to turn on the H701 & my 3 amplifiers. To connect the 6V balanced outputs from the head unit to the H701 (YES, the H701 accepts BALANCED inputs, read more below), I cut the ends off of a RCA cable and soldered, then heat shrinked the outputs from the headunit to the bare RCA wires. Since the output is balanced, it eliminates all common mode noise to the H701, eliminating the chance of noise at the RCA inputs which lots of users have experienced. The H701 is then wired to my amplifiers & controlled by the C701. I use the RF head unit as my volume control & set the C701 volume to a set level (in this case, 25/35). Since I just got done about 30 min ago, I haven't had much time to listen, but initial impressions are that there is no difference in sound between the source I had prior to the break in (D310) & the RF head unit. I can say I am very happy with the results, and relieved my idea actually worked out, especially since I haven't seen anyone else report using balanced inputs with the H701. As for specifics about how the H701 can receive both balanced & unbalanced inputs on the RCA input... I had read Werewolf on ECA had written that the input stage of the H701/700/900 has a differential to single end converter that measures the difference between the tip & ring of the RCA input. This then referenced to its own internal ground. Such a design would allow for the use of both unbalanced & balanced inputs. I then read that some individuals had successfully done what I want to do, with the H650. So, I decided to be the guinea pig, and try it out, and indeed, what Werewolf wrote is true. Hope this information spreads to help others that want to use balanced inputs with the H701 (although it is now discontinued).

foootop

Bare feet are pretty comfy, when I'm not standing... but I have a super high arch, and can't walk long without a good arch support or my knees & ankles start to ache.

Every single post I read of which you are the author sure reminds me your balls haven't dropped yet.

If it was my car, I'd be seriously considering going with a SLS & a 2" or a really good 3" full range in the dash or just your more "normal" midbass/midrange & tweeter 2 way combo. You don't have that much room to use in the cabin to be putting speakers everywhere. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12271 DS-21 on DIYMA has done the same as well.

You don't want your mids in the doors, that is a definite. What vehicle?

If I had someone walking by me using something like that, I'd punch him right in the temple. One of the stupidest things I've ever seen.

40mA, not going to have a battery draining problem from that.

You are judged by your actions... obviously your reputation has been made.

DMM needs to be connected in series to measure current. Don't have your stereo on during this, leave the car off. 10A maximum can be flowed through the DMM before it dies. Use the 10A current connection on the DMM before starting this. I never once mentioned the negative terminal.

I can't remeber what active means.. and I think I can't do it with my deck... You can't. Active means filtering is done prior to amplifying the signal. Each speaker needs its own amplification channel & processing channel capable of proper filtering.

One very simple solution to that predicament.

Figure out what equipment you are going to use, because it will drastically change the answer to the question. Personally, I think you need to start simply... simplicity seems to be lost among some. 1 midrange per side, 1 tweeter per side.

Next step is figuring out how large of a parasitic draw you have... pull out your multimeter, disconnect the battery terminal, put the leads in the correct locations for measuring current, and put the position lead on the battery terminal & the negative the power wire.