ANeonRider

myspace sucks.

unserviceable. I am pretty sure Alpine's repair costs are pretty decent though. Might be a good idea if sonic doesn't warranty it, to contact Alpine directly.

I think it is u/s... better see how well the warranty works.

What protection is it going into? If you read the manual, you'll see that the power light will change to red & flash depending on the error.

That "kick" is midbass, which a subwoofer has no business reproducing IMO.

Nooo, didn't say that at all. You don't want to port ANY sub lower than 25Hz in car. While this sub is a very good subwoofer to port tuned very low in the home, that doesn't mean it is a good idea in car, due to cabin gain. I'd venture to guess 5-5.5ft^3 tuned to 35Hz would be fine.

You aren't trying to bridge.. you are trying to strap them. Follow the instructions in the manual.

Tuning to 20Hz in a car is pretty much pointless, might as well seal it up in the car. That's home audio territory.

Nope. They have this forum for that.

CA18RLY + 27TFFNC/G or whatever the silk dome pn is.

Or, you can always have a small piece of MDF glassed into place & use larger washers & bolts.

This winter I'm going to build some rear loaded horns with some 4" Fostex FR drivers.

thats it.

Not bad at all, actually using 8 ohm speakers is a good thing IMO. What active crossover are you planning to use?

Nextel ftw. And read the write up about efficiency in the technical section.

how about now

umm, port velocity, therefore causing port noise... that's why. I would not go with less than 30.

CEA is far from unbiased.

You need a channel for every speaker.

Sinus headache has eff'd off finally, yes!

Just listen to the sub at low volume levels... if no bad sounds come from it, let it wang. No need to baby it.

dcr, sure, but unless you are running them at 0hz, that won't happen. Run them in series/parallel, which is what you described.

I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fires right into the seat & there is no degradation whatsoever.

Doubt you need more than 600W IB on that driver. Not because of mechanical power handling, but because your front stage will have to be completely ridiculous to keep up with it at full bore. As for if it is a good choice. Very much so. I'd choose the 15 though, more cone area.

I have had a sinus headache for 3 days now.