87regal

How about just some insight and responses? Thx. SDS is top notch. Stay away from the roofing stuff. Back when I didn't know any better I used a few rolls of quick roof on a maxima. It worked great but I did the entire inner and outer door skins and multiple layers in some places. Recently I used 7 CLD tiles from SDS per door on a dodge ram, same performance and MUCH easier to apply. Was probably cheaper too.

They also make void free baltic birch. x2 , that's what everyone means by birch...not the cheap stuff with only the top layers of birch.

2 mids in each front door... I am in the works of a setup similar to this, THANKS for the in-depth responce explaining it!!! The MiniDSP looks to be a great option to look into. Hearing the MS-8 has possible issues/hurdles with a horn setup is good to know in advance. Thanks again for the knowledge!! do you have a build topic? and Impious, I appreciate all the info, you've really helped a lot!!!

If I were to use the 6 channel ZED amp, would it work like this: 2 8ohm woofers in parallel ,channels 1+2 bridged for 600rms@4ohm 2 8ohm woofers in parallel, channels 3+4 bridged for 600rms@4ohm 1 HLCD, channel 5 for ???rms@8ohm 1 HLCD, channel 6 for ???rms@8ohm Would I still need a separate sound processor or would the amps crossovers be sufficient?

Fuck that forum

What you described is more or less what I was picturing. The SA NEO-PROs(I read the reviews, look very nice) , HLCDs, and seperate 2channel/4channel amps. I just skimmed through the miniDSP review. It does look somewhat overwhelming as I do not have much experience with tuning, but I'm ready to learn so I will not rule that out just yet. If I did go passive would it need to be a custom built crossover? and thanks for the info on the horn bodies, I'm going to look into it.

First of thanks for the response What you described sounds perfect. So there is no need for separate mid-bass and mid-range? Is there anything in particular(parameters?) I should look for In a mid? Does it sound like active would be ideal for this setup? If so, what would be the best way of doing this? Separate 4 channel amps for horns/mids? I was at a bass competition today and someone recommended mDSP(i think it was "m", may be mistaken) brand which are tuned on a computer via USB, any info on these as I can't find anything on google. EDIT: how about something like this http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10040-image-dynamics-cd-pro-full-size-compression-horns.aspx not many specs listed, and ID site is down.

The budget is a few thousand. Around here there aren't many metered competitions, more like street battles. So it basically gotta be loud as F**K outside the car and keep up with the bass. I still need everything. As far as modifications I'm ready for just about anything, getting ready to weld in some roof braces. I'm planing to put everything in painted glassed doors. The reason I was considering active was I heard it was more efficient and figured that instead of a ton of passive crossovers I would just need a couple of sound processors.....also, what the deal with horns/super tweeters?

My substage is complete and now I am looking for some midbass/mid/tweeters. I have never used active crossovers but would like to for this build. Any suggestions for something that could keep up with (4) 18"s and 8kwrms. It is going in a suburban so I have all four doors available, plus the possibility of a custom center console. I was thinking about making center console enclosure for the midbass, but found out most mid bass speakers are designed for IB. Are there any that would work well in that style of enclosure? Would PA speakers(seen a lot of people using electro-voice) be a bad idea? Any suggestions or links to similar builds would be appreciated.

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_80&products_id=205 http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_79&products_id=181 whats another $50?...i had my 15 on about 7-800rms(overrated hifonics 1200d) then switched to an ed nine 1(under rated 1200) and didn't notice THAT much difference. I would just hold out until you can get what you really want.

sorry but batteries do not store electrical energy. they store chemical energy and convert it to(make/produce) electrical energy. A capacitor stores electrical energy.

its when you hook up a small electric motor to a regular sized boat so you can go slow without running the engine(s) while fishing

thanks for the help. how are you calculating those port lengths? I used the calculator on precision ports site and it said they should be 11 inches long.

too big for the car. i miscalculated when i designed it. I can BARELY fit it in there right now(6 batts and 2 hydraulic pumps in the way). So using aero ports opposed to a slot port would make it a smaller box overall?

Your saying "them", do you have two 15's? single 15....I was meaning the sub+port, sorry should have made that more clear.

I am going to be building a new box for my 15 inch q because my current one is a little too big. The dimensions I am working with are 14high, 32 long, 20 inches deep. I am having a hard time understanding what size slot port would it take for this box to be tuned to 33hz. Since I will be going with sub up+port up, the port can be either 30.5 or 18.5 inches long(depending on if make it long ways , or short ways) but how wide, and long should it be? (would like to face them back but they will be too close to the back of the trunk....I can also face them forward). Also, current box is 14x32x24 tuned to 33hz....will I see a huge decrease in output with this smaller box?

Is there a way to convert between the 2 rating so I can compare subs better.

found them: Power Handling: 500 Watts SPL (2.83v/1m): 90.2 db Impedence: 4 + 4 Ohm T/S parameters (with coils wired in series): Fs = 26 Hz Re = 8 Ohms Qt = 0.32 Qes = 0.35 Qms = 3.35 Mms = 232.8 grams Rms = 11.42 kg/s Cms = 0.000159 m/N Vas = 129 liters Sd= 756.3 cm2 Xmax = 13 mm Diameter = 31.1 cm Dimensions Outside Diameter: 39.4cm (15 1/2") Mounting Diameter: 35.6cm (14") Depth: 16.8cm (6 5/8")

Can't find them anywhere. How much did they retail for?

My car has a stock 78amp alternator, but I will be swapping in a 140 amp alternator from a different car. (car is an 87 Buick regal, new alternator will be from 90's caprice). Will this upgrade be enough to run an ed NINe.1 at 1ohm without adding more batts? The amps max draw is 160amps, but not sure what it will draw under normal use. I have the big 3 done in 4 gauge and a regular battery.

You are just picking a diffrent heatsink, that's it. from what I have heard its the board is the same but have totally different components. don't know if its true, just what i heard.

not too worried about it. Car isn't driven daily and is always at low rpms.

anyone have any luck switching to a smaller alternator pulley? Were there any noticeable gains in output?

ok, looks like 2 sealed 10s is the way to go. any suggestions for the 10s ? looking to stay under 2k rms between them. EDIT: M5 I just read you sig, how do you like the ixl 12? does it get loud?