johnecon2001

And really nice and Behringer probably shouldn't be used in the same sentence either.

I think he's describing a different use for them though. They're not ment as midrange drivers and probably won't perform as well as something you can get from madisound or parts express. If you're thinking of using them in a three way setup though, by all means, they'll be great for the low end.

YT and BT's are the same internally. The only differences come with the posts.

I concur with Ryan on this one.

I sincerely doubt each one of those drivers outputs sound at the EXACT same instance as the others. Hence the reason you align the drivers to themselves. Then add time alignment L/R.

How would that help? If the speakers are located at the same locations in the vehicle (i.e. doors), and you measured to a point in the center of the vehicle.....the speakers would measure equidistant You would have to measure the differences at the listening position. Then again, I've never set time alignment with measurements.....I've always set it by ear. Because your head moves. You can't account for how you sit or if you're leaning to the left or the right. You also can't account for passengers being in the way of the waves. Better to just pick a common open spot in the space and aim for that. As close to your natural spot as possible of course. You can do timing by ear, or measuring, the only real way to get it right though is with mic and computer that can measure down to the .001 ms.

Incorrect. Time alignment should be used so that all the drivers are producing sound that is coming to your ear at the same time. Regardless of how many drivers he has producing whatever frequency, placement can be corrected with alignment and phase filters.

You can still use time alignment. One millisecond is about 1.12 feet. Rather than measuring right to your ear, measure to a common spot in the middle of the vehicle. Or just around the driver side. Set up an object about as tall as you so you have something stationary to measure to. Also, here's a calculator I use to help with the conversion of inches and microseconds. http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-soundpath.htm

Not to mention, less wiring to send out of the amp for sure.

Indeed. With the multiple wiring options of the dual voice coil woofers, one or two mono block amplifiers would be much more efficient and probably cheaper.

Is your unit even able to control an iPod? You should flip through the user manual for clues..

You can get both iirc.

Try disconnecting the woofer from the amp, then see if the amp turns on.

Cool, go ahead and post it here. This is SSA.

You should be safe to list them with a "see price in cart" deal. No advertising there. Once a customer adds the amp to the cart, it means they intend to buy it.

After you get the recone.. you should set your gain correctly..

Not really... the path of least resistance will be the best ground. If your frame ground measures over 0 ohms, and a run from the battery measures less than that... the optimal ground is the battery.

So it's still in the BTL line, not the Q line? The diversity between lines is getting a bit blurred..

The 121M is barely a 250w amp. If you don't clip the gain, your DCON will be fine on it.

She got some boobs

no, really we don't know what they're talking about. That's why we REQUIRE people to better define their questions without using words that they don't fully understand the meaning of. Now, back to the topic at hand.

Did you email nick like he told you to??

What content are you playing that is 5.1? Either way, if you want to use that amp, you'll have to use a compatible Alpine head unit in order to pass input to the amp.

Still waiting to see a response on what type and size box you built..

Why oh why did you use Fatmat?