johnecon2001

Lets not resort to personal attacks here people. We better than CA.com. All offending posts have been removed.

Drill a hole between the two chambers... durrr

No warranty on most of their stuff. Buyer beware. They sell quite a bit unauthorized.

The Alpine Type-R is not an SQ sub. The Alpine Type-X is an SQ sub. The Type-R is ment to be a daily beater that you can purchase at BestBuy for a silly price.

You do realize the stock spoiler provides no downforce, correct? Stop saying you need it at the track, you never even had it at the track. Get some better tires and learn how to drive.

I would do both, if possible. The ground in a vehicle is just as important as the positive wire.

Or.. since its a Civic and you'll never reach speeds at where the spoiler will actually be beneficial... you could just not put another one on.

$200 for a 1200wrms sub seems a bit lofty. You may want to consider getting a DVC2 ohm sub and wiring the amp to 4 ohms.

That thread seemed to go misguided and went more towards suggestions.... this thread is geared more towards numbers...this thread isn't hurting anyone. No.. That thread is also geared towards numbers. This thread is deemed a duplicate.

Ever heard of a Gain knob?

Please just use the SPL show off thread for songs that you like to "bump" to.

Or you could just chain the entire battery bank together. Use buss bars and then run all the amplifier positives to the buss bars.

Rock maybe... techno/euro-dance.. not really. SQ is the accurate reproduction of all frequencies. Music that doesn't carry a wide spectrum of frequencies is not going to show what your system can do.

That's the wrong stuff lol. That stuff is for wiring a home. Go to a welding supply store.

This forum isn't the place for bickering. Obviously there are two strong opinions, and everyone else has stopped talking to let the argument take place. Please just PM each other.

You're using the wrong wire if you think its not flexible.

Getting sort of off topic.....but no, running a 2-way active front stage + subwoofer is a 3-way active system. A 3-way active front stage + subwoofer is a 4-way active system. Majority of people are already running their substage "active" by using the amplifier's or headunit's onboard amplifiers for the crossover. So when I was having this same argument and including the sub in my setup and claiming to have a three-way active system everyone on this forum was like no you dont have one, dont include the sub stage. Why was that? (not arguing just looking for some clarification). **I do understand how people are using there subwoofers with there headunits and amps to make it active and all that stuff. I cant remember when the thread was made but Ill search for it. Because subwoofers are generally a mono source. Your front stage uses a stereo source. 3-way + sub is accurate.

Enough for what? A 4500D at full tilt would need at least a 200a alternator as well as 3-4 group 31 batteries.

We already have all of this info already available on SSA.

How man times is that now? Maybe pick a username that you don't have to change so often.

I doubt it.

Aahah is that the one with the wireless sub? My dad brought that home and I just laughed. He proceeded to bring it back. Yah, that's the one. Its ok for what it is if you don't want anything more than just better sound from your TV. I mean, we're not expecting great results from an item that has no controls are we

I would email nick with pictures of the problem, along with when you bought the sub and info on your setup. You may be able to mail it in and get it repaired under warranty, but chances are since you say a coil went bad there was some user error that caused the problems. If the magnet cracked and shifted it may have rubbed the coil to death.

Since you have an American car the choices are pretty limitless. Ohio Gen makes great alts as does Mean Green and Power master.