johnecon2001

Kinetik's are more expensive.. but worth it. I'd go after a few Powermaster batteries though.

That would be a great match to those subs.

are you going to work on anything bigger than the saz3000d ? woulld love to see somethin that puts out 5000-6000 watts The 3000D puts out 7000~ watts.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=12454

IF that means you think its a junk amp.. I'll give you $20 for it.

I've got a 16v Eclipse I might be willing to be persuaded out of. The CD8053. It would come with the Balanced Line Adapter and the Commander.

How did you blow the Supremo's?

hahahahahaha

Here's another thing to consider even before you start looking for more drivers. If you don't want to move the drivers around in the doors, you need some kind of digital time alignment to get your sound in the right places and in phase (cancellation is bad). Also, is there anyway to fit a 7" driver instead of a 6.5? I'd go with a 7" midbass, 2-4" midrange and 1" tweet. If you find yourself wincing over harshness in tweets, you should stay away from anything of a metal nature as those tend to be a bit more bright and harshish (that's not always the case though).

Holy crap man, I can't wait to see that done.

er... what kind of deals? Any thing on the mids?

Do you have special fuses that only let power transfer in one direction?

hahaha wow, look how much stuff they crammed in there! 3600w x1 @ 1ohm which is soooo underrated. It also was made to run on 18v right out of the box.

A Sundown SAZ-3000D will give you more than enough power at .7 ohms providing you have a proper electrical backbone.

Someone correct my if I'm wrong, but having a high roll surround is going to change how that sub moves drastically. As in the spiders will work harder.

Only thing that you get from having the port at one end allows you to tune lower because you can increase the port length.

For the power you're talking about running eventually, you'll definitely want something better than the Red Tops. Build looks interesting so far, I like how you're attempting to mix SQ and SPL. I was going to say something about time alignment, but with all the drivers that close together, you might not need it. Keep us updated!

There's a BEST out there? Holy crayup, when did that happen? Try the Mach5Audio SPL-12

Lets go back to basic car audio 101 on this. The fuse isn't ment to protect the amp. The Fuse is ment to protect the wire. So now you have two options, Fuse to the maximum amperage the wire can handle, or fuse just below that point. 1/0awg can take 400-350a depending on length. 4awg can take 100-150a depending on length. I fuse to the maximum of the wiring usually. In your case, I'd fuse the 1/0 line at 250-300. For the 4awg line, I'd fuse at 100-150.

I'll say it... Just because someone may have a degree in Electrical Engineering doesn't mean they know squat about designing speakers. I suggest you leave this forum and never come back. Your attitude is not welcome here, and your refusal to abide by the rules.

And that's the way to make your install not ghetto.

Do you realize how many variables you still left out? Not a chance in hell there is an answer to your question.

He means that when the subs only have to play a small portion of the frequency range, they're not what you should be focusing your attention on. You're front speakers play over 85% of the frequencies heard. That is what you should be asking about in an SQ install.

Is that an Eclipse?

nice. When I first saw how thick that baffle was, I nearly crapped myself.

350a for the under the hood blocks. You really have the wrong kind of block for in the back though. Mini ANL or KF fuses only go up to 150a. 150a is a huge bottleneck on 1/0awg wire.