johnecon2001

-1 rep for you, lets try some civility next time eh?

If you want to run 1000w and are stuck between the SSD and the Q... just get the Q.

The only recent motor changes have been to the BL and the BTL.

Not if you set your gain knob properly.

I bet your front wheels rub the body quite a bit.

You should hear me pee. And when I run, my balls slap my legs... o jeezus look out.

Before you even start to discuss passive radiators, you should know the rule of thumb when using them is to double the cone area of the powered woofer. In this case, dual 15" PR's.

You won't be able to see any of that.

SAZ-1500D would be plenty for 2 W7's.

That's pretty Ghetto ^ Unless you soldered the wire into that copper, your chances of it slipping out of that are pretty high.

Weight has nothing to do with which driver will perform better. If you want loud, you should be using a ported box. If you can't fit a ported 15" driver, you should be looking at a 12" ported driver. Based upon your "usable frequencies", ported is a MUCH better option anyway.

Electrical upgrades are never a bad idea.

Also a budget and what type of box it's in would be helpful.

The strapping, the 3 ohms, even the amps them selves have nothing to do with your engine noise. Try removing the RCA's from the amp, is the noise still there? If it is, the problem lies with your amplifier ground. If its gone, the problem lies with the head unit.

Is your main run 4awg to a distro? If so, it really should be 1/0awg.

zomg rep works again, yay!

You don't think Jacob or DJ know how to gain match their amplifiers? Its a bit more complicated than just a line driver or just a splitter.

Lots of people use the MaxxLink. A lot of people gain several tenths of a Db just by swapping it in.

My opinion is that it is in fact a subwoofer that reproduces sound.

Would you rather have this: With shitty service. Or this: With awesome service. I highly doubt the NiNE.1 can put out 1600w.

The gain position has nothing to do with how much power comes out of the amplifier. You could have full gain and no output. It all depends on your input power.

Over current usually. But if you haven't checked with a DMM, how do you know its fine? You're getting 0v on that power line. Go up the line with the DMM until you have 12v. When you find a spot that has 12v, find out what item past that point is cutting off the voltage.

Just because the fuse looks fine doesn't mean it is fine. Use the DMM to check continuity on the fuse. If it doesn't pass the test, replace the fuse. This isn't rocket science guys.

If you want to play your system with the car off, you'll need an isolator or a solenoid to switch off the main battery an onto your secondary one. While we're on the topic of secondary batteries, a honda civic sized one will do nothing for you, both with the car on and especially with it off.

lol, anything over 2-way in a coaxial speaker is straight marketing. Are you going for an all Pioneer system? What's your budget? Also, what features do you need in your head unit?