johnecon2001

I guess not because the problem occurs like 5 times in a 30 minute continuous playing. They're still sounding great even at high volumes. Gain's set at 1 o'clock I'd still guess yes. There are different stages of blown. If you've checked your connections and everything is fine there... I'll stick to my guns and say you popped 'em. And simply placing your gain knob at "1 o'clock" is not setting your gains correctly.

First question, yes you can wire it in parallel with no problems. Second, no, this won't fry your alternator.

That has a lot to do with how your box is made and what your electrical consists of. If you're at .5 ohms and your voltage drops.. the subs and amp are going to get a little hotter than normal

Might have blown the mid. j/w how'd you set your gains?

1 ohm should be plenty. The DP's are pretty efficient buggers. but .5 wouldn't hurt if you have the electrical. Could always turn the gain down.

I see boobies in the 4th picture. mmm

The new Mag is NOT an SPL driver. Nothing close to one.

Ideally, you build the box to suit the woofers..

yep!

If you offer to buy a 100 of each, I am sure I can help to make it happen. what would u give ...ur 21" rims ... Sean's basically pointing out that there isn't a big enough market to support the investment into those oversize types of woofers. I'd expect SSA to offer 12", 15" and 18" at the max. Probably won't be a 10" since the motor is too big.

I don't remember exactly, but here are the T/s specs to get you started http://web.archive.org/web/20051210090137/...rahmaSeries.htm

Slow leak somewhere would be my thought. Or perhaps the motor needs to be oiled.

All of them. Can you be more specific maybe?

Ive heard from 2 separate people running 40.1s, that they used a toggle switch and hooked remote straight from battery ok? Still it's not required. Might have been mandated by their installs.

I would beg to differ this point. The Engine block to chassis is probably the most important. That's essentially the alternator ground point. Alternator grounds to the engine... where do you think it goes from there?

It all comes down to resistance. Longer runs with thinner cable will raise the resistance. You can combat this by raising the gauge size.

Specs can be fabricated. You can't really look to them for guidance unless you're comparing two trusted brands. What's your budget like for this 4 channel amp?

The remote already is 12v from your head unit...

The fact that you upgraded the power wires and not the ground wire is the problem right there. You can't do that and expect things to get better. Finish the job.

That's a big ass. Talking about the subwoofer everyone, not Mark..

well.. heh I can recommend extremely nice mics, but for car purposes the Behringer ECM8000 should be perfectly fine. As far as interfaces go, pretty much any USB microphone pre-amplifier at around $100 should have decent enough specs.

If you didn't get the universal option and you have a Dual 1 sub.. you're going to need a new motor. Might as well just sell what you have and buy a new one.

Depends on what you want to do with it really and if you plan to power it in car or out of car. Goldline makes a few quality pieces. Their older gear wasn't horribly accurate, but it would still work to achieve a flatter system respons Ideally, you should look into a USB interface and a good measurement mic and then get an application for a computer. This will let you look at the bigger picture with Phase, Time alignment and EQ.

Yeah, there was like 4 different formats of the pics, there was an E-mail one, a direct link one, an HTML(the one I used), and a IMG code, I didn't know which one to use For future link codes, you'll want to use the code.

You used the wrong link codes, I'll try to fix it for you.