ou812

1st Gen Icon 10. Can't find a reason to replace it. I really enjoy the look I get when people see that I have a single 10. It's quite funny. Kids.....

http://ampguts.com/forum/sony-217/sony-xm-2000r-3266/Back when Sony made some amazing equipment.

that's what I would suggest.

http://providence.craigslist.org/ele/4038328379.html

I have noticed this same issue for quite some time. Rather than just helping someone individuals feel they need to talk down to people in nearly every thread.

No rears and I doubt I could hear the anyway.

You can do a few different things. Run the 60.4 in 4 channel mode to the Rainbows and JBL's. Keep in mind that the JBL's will get a tad bit more power being 2 ohms but not much. You can bridge the 60.4 to the rainbows and then you would have to run the factory speakers in the rear assuming they're 4 ohms. Since the JBL are 2 ohms I wouldn't suggest running them off hu power. Odds are that the hu amp will shut down. What I would suggest doing is......Use the 60.4 to run the rainbows active meaning 2 channels for tweets and 2 channels for the mids. That would involve ditching the passive crossover and opening another can of worms though. I do have a few questions.....Do you have these amps up and running yet? Do you have the manual for them? If you don't here is the download for it. You'll want to read the manual very carefully before you power them up. http://www.esxaudio.de/manuals/discontinued/Q752-4752.pdf The other question is where did you get the amps from? I have a friend in South jersey that has the largest collection of ESX amps I have ever seen and I am wondering if he is where these came from. Pics of mine and some others that I have owned.

I would bridge the 60.4 and run just the fronts. It is personal preference though. If you like rear fill so be it. The 60.4 puts out considerably more than 60 watts per channel. More like 100. http://amp-performance.de/332-ESX.html Great amps btw. can you post some pics?

As stated your hu is already active capable. The RF would be a serious step up though. Run the comps active with your hu and see how you like it. Then make the call if you feel the need to take it a step further.

pm sent back

It's really not that hard. You have to understand the capabilities of the drivers being used. research, research and a little more research.

You could go a few different ways. that is a lot of bass to keep up with. Pro audio style might be the most cost effective route. That's really not my style so I wouldn't be able to recommend a set. The other option is getting a really beefy mid along with a tweet and run them active off that crossover that you have. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I would run those mids with around 200 watts to them. The problem is that they're 8ohms and 200 watts at 8ohms is going to be expensive. CDT makes some beefy mids that can take a lot of power at 4ohms which would be easier. http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=52 Either of those will play lower than a pa style mid and IMO sound better. Giving them enough power and quality of install will be key whatever route you go.

Maybe I missed it but what does your substage consist of ? How much sub power are you trying to keep up with? I hope you learned not to mount a passive crossover inside a doorcard without protection. How low do you feel you want to cross over your front stage? Are you just concerned about loud or do you want any type of sq at all?

So you were running a set of passive comps along with the Kicker crossover at the same time? I have to go back to my previous statement and say you need to figure out why you blew a driver in the first place before buying new ones and possibly ending up the same way. Come to think of it you may have just given us the answer to the question.

First you should figure out why you blew the driver you had before moving on and blowing another.

The time,effort and learning curve are very well worth it in the long run when diving into active.

I actually owned several carver amps in my younger days many moons ago. Depending on what kind of life your amps have had you should be pretty happy with them. I couldn't kill the ones I had and I wasn't very kind to them at all.

This is one of the most truthful statements I have ever read on this forum.

Mantz made the ones without the blue light strip on the front.

Amazing Goop...Autozone. Worked great for me.

Unfortunately I already have everything purchased.I understand your position about rear staging, but I am also using rear DVD headrest and is more so for that, plus I'm not a pure soundstage has to be directly up front as if I were at a live concert. I kinda like the presense of sound from all around. Also, with this JL amp if I were to bridge it can only be 4 ohm, and the comps are 2 ohm so that wouldn't work I don't think. You can do what you want but M5 is kinda saying what I am. The rear passengers are going to hear everything just fine. It's up to you though.

Thanks for clearing up some of my misconceptions. I have just heard people say 15's have a harder time keeping up with faster music...or something to that effect. (I like hip hop, classic rock, 80's/90's and getting into this dubstep (?) ...so a single 15 Gcon might satisfy my thirst? That would be the cheapest route.Thanks M5, definitely food for thought. I would go with the xcon manCan you explain how you came to that conclusion?

4 channels active to the front and 2 channels passive to the rear set maybe?

Hyundai santa Fe....SUV. That's good...IMO. It makes things easier as far as I'm concerned. Going ported should be of no fear. You have a subsonic filter and as long as the box is designed the right way and built correctly along with setup you'll be fine. I used to be a sealed box only guy but was swayed when I bought my OG first gen SSA Icon 10. I might have missed it but I didn't see what sub or subs you had in the past to make a good comparison. An Xcon might be overkill for you. We know the vehichle I assume, what kind of front stage do you have? Are you trying to build a balanced system or just bass notes out the rear end? It sounds like you are seriously leaning towards "SQL" kind of like me. My system has similar power to the sub like you have available. I am probobly around 1000 watts and I am giving all of that to a single Icon 10 in a 1.35 ported enclosure tuned to 32 hz. Front stage I have about 150 x 4 on tap running active to a set of comps. All in an 04 Explorer. No rear fill because I would most likely not be able to hear it. It gets insanely loud. I am not and never will be a fan of rap music but I do have one song on my ipod to demo for freinds. With both front windows down and the moonroof closed it flexes the doors and the flex in the roof is about an inch and a half. They get really, really loud and sound amazing. I go from that rap song and go right back to the prog rock I listen to and they play deep, precise and every other sq accolade that you can think of. If you can fit a ported enclosure for a single sub I would highly suggest the Icon. The Gcon is a highly respectable driver and I would also throw the FI Q in there. I only ask what you have had in the past to know what you had and what you're expectations are. You could be very happy with an Icon or an FI Q on the amp you have in a ported enclosure. Are you going to want more like suggested with the Xcon? then you will get into electrical upgrades. Can your front stage keep up with that upgrade as well? To be totally honest I guess I don't have stock electrical. Big 3 and deep cycle battery. No dimming since the big 3 at all.

Still have mine and still sounds incredible.