Julian

sorry, will do Thanks man, Assuming you have a Mustang (as do i) you have a small trunk, I would suggest the Nightshade because they like and work quite well in smaller enclosures. What electrical do you have (big 3, batteries, High output alternator, etc)? They both get loud and sound great.

Yo dawg I hurr you wuz lookin fo' some bang in yo' trunk. I'm only 19... by READING everything i could i LEARNED all of the things i KNOW about car audio. I've only been in the game for about a year or so. And no, Mommy and daddy didn't buy everything. ask ACTUAL questions with more details and we'll be able to teach you. None of this "If i have a Xplod on a Xplod 393939393 watt amp" bullshit, this is all install dependent. /thread

This is the most bullshit thread. Seriously guys, It is all install Dependant. You're comparing apples to grapefruit here, two of anything will be louder than one of anything. When you're doubling the cone area you get a large increase in output. Period. Also you need to double your power (theoretically) to get a 3dB gain. The car flips all of its on it's ass, I can easily get a CRX put two eights with a couple thousand whats and i can easily yield 150's. These threads seriously piss me off!

Please read the Noob guidelines for posting here on SSA

Yah bruh u right we dont know shit, we shud stop bein bitchs ya diggg

Dynamat is crap. Secondskin is much better, same prices, no asphalt, real stuff there

However, instead of using a sine wave input signal, we used a square wave. The reason for this is that square waves consist of a large amount of sine waves, as does music. The square wave is of course not an equivalent of music, but for this test it was an easy way of showing that a complex signal (not just a simple sine wave signal) may make the load, from the amplifier point of view, very low. If you study the graph resulting from the test, you will probably agree that not only is it necessary to check the amplifier’s behavior for resistive, capacitive and inductive loads – the amplifier should also be checked for loads with lower impedance than the nominal impedance of the loudspeaker. This proves to be very important, since a loudspeaker with a nominal impedance of 4 ohms will sometimes have an actual impedance of 1 ohm or less. The PowerCube helps you perform testing of an amplifier, taking all these load attributes into consideration. " And we do know.. we know a lot... The BL can handle up to 1500 watts.. Period for daily, Those people, if not all of them were either burping them or having them in small enclosures, if you want to run 432049234324093284 watts on them you can... YOU need to be conservative with the Gain and volume. DO NOT USE BASS BOOST. It's all dependant on you, if you really have 4,000 watts to play with, you'd be better off with a pair of BTL's or multiple BL's. We we're not flaming as Jaycee said so eloquently "OP asking a blatant question with know information at all is not how you go about doing it on this forum, read the new member posting guidelines and go from there. Your question was simple and did not include valuable information at all to help give you a good answer. Big Jon gave you answer of 1200 rms but that all was install dependent, the sub takes 1000 watts standard and with the bl option added it gives you an extra 200-500 (maybe depending on install). Give more information on box size and tuning and any other information you can so we can help best answer your question. But to answer your question about how much extra power it can handle is all install dependent (box, tuning, impedence rise, your listening habits, and so on will play a role). Hope that helps, remember there is no problem with headroom and music is dynamic so like I said above it can be successfully if done right."

This. My Type R's shake my rear view mirror.. Note: i have 2 sets Thanks Damplifier and some fiberglass with resin is cheaper than a new set of component speakers.

i was referring to the speaker wiring from the amp to my crossovers, i have 8 gauge wires to the amp. and to julian, idk what ib alignment is, they are in factory locations, not sealed and i do have dynamat xtreme around the speakers its cut into a square but its probably a good 3-4 inches to all sides of the 6.5 Infinite baffle. First off I would make door pods and seal your speakers before you make a costly upgrade for nothing. I would use SecondSkin Damplifier for the doors, deaden everything in the door.

The higher you tune the louder it will be, 27hz will kill on the lows but will miss out on a lot of output. IMO 32-35 HZ is perfect amount of output VS low end. You could tune higher.. it would be loud, but you'd miss out on the low end.

First and for most, are they in an IB Alignment or are they sealed? Door pods or factory location? Are your doors deadened sufficiently?

1. Purchase your BTL, since it takes time to build the woofer. 2. All your electrical upgrades first. Deka intimidator batteries are good. I'd suggest a xs power d3100( little more expensive but a lot better. High output alternator, big 3 in 1/0 and finally a run of 1/0 to the rear. 3. Buy an amplifier, like said Above the sundown amps are killer I'd suggest a saz-2500. For the mids/highs I'd suggest a 125.2. 4. Buy/ build a box to the recommended specs. 5. Get all assorted necessities on a as needed basis such as headunit, speakers, volt meter, etc. Where do you live? A lot of us are willing to help out a fellow SSA member for free or for just a good meal .

Holy shit, A beast as always Jacob!

We're having a Group Buy on our SSA store for Bravox and Bravox is supposed to be the Brazilian Focal. Bravox Group Buy CS603CF for $509 great price.

baller!

Prices aren't really going to change, You'll be around the $100 mark for the recone. There will typically not be a price difference unless one company doesn't use as good or expensive soft parts. Also the RMS rating has a lot to do a lot with the cooling of the motor. If a coil can't be cooled by the machining in the motor, the RMS rating will mean nothing. Why not call TC sounds and see if they can recone it for you?

In the lumina when i was running my Fi bl 15" in a 3.5 Ft^3 box tuned to 32Hz, it was best to either place it forward and push it all the way to the back of the trunk so it was still facing forward or to put it all the way back to the seats facing rearward. I noticed a huge loss of output when facing forward, the low end was not there, it wasn't as loud. Although mine was not sealed so this could of made a huge difference. Sealing may have a huge impact on the output and the low end, I have a feeling if i would have done that the output would of been superb.

i have come to the conclusion i frequent this site too much

:werd_msword: :werd_msword: :werd_msword:

1. You would want to wire down to 1 ohm, You will need dual 2's. Also you will want an amplifier that runs down to one ohm. 2. You should really start off slow, You're picking up a lot of power it's like going from a pop gun to a desert eagle. 3. What is your budget, what electrical upgrades do you have (Batteries, High Output alternator, Big 3)? 4. The resistance of the coils (In ohms) do not dictate reliability. You have to make sure your amplifier can handle either 1 ohm or 2 ohms.