bassahaulic

This is utter myth, and is totally false.

Watch in HD!!!!

I should have a few pictures, if not they are both coming out in the next few days to do some wiring. :-)

In a CRX Subs forward port back is the best for loudness and sounds really good to boot. Had a friend get a 162 from a CRX with 4 Solo X 10"s on 16k. It was stupid. I would go with 4 ICON 10"s or 4 ICON 12"s firing forward with a good bit of port firing back wards via Aero Ports.

Back Story: I have had MANY different radio's in my vehicles, from Alpine to Kenwood, to Pioneers. Even had other Premiers. All have sounded about the same. I always had the Second to highest unit the companies offered, except with Kenwood as their prices are very good. And always wanted one of the high end units like the Alpine 9887, Eclipse MKII, or Pioneer 800/880PRS. But never had the money to get them. The 880 was produced from 2006-2007 I believe with the 800 being produced from 2008-2010. I finally got my chance when a local friend of mine, dvalue on here, wanted to sell his 800PRS for a Alpine 9887. Gave me a really good price so I scooped it up. Review of the 800PRS in my van: When I first got the head unit I instantly noticed the all copper chassis and brushed black aluminum face plate. All the plugs were very secure and very good quality wire. I took it home and looked over the whole thing noticing it was very different then any other Pioneer I had owned in looks and quality of parts. Also that came with it was the iPod Adapter box/cable, which felt like a normal Pioneer add on accessory. Installation was pretty painless, hardest part was finding a home for the iPod control box and making sure all the little switches on the top of the radio were set correctly to run "Net Work" mode which is 3-way active. The operating system in the radio was about as standard Pioneer as you can get with just a few more features added. When I took out the Kenwood X794 and db Drive E7EQ7 that was in my dash I was doing a 150.4db and had almost no bass reproduction below 40Hz. Once the 800 was installed it went to a 151.4 and I could then reproduce bass down to 28Hz. Only thing I can think of that would cause this is the cleaner higher voltage coming from the 800. The Sound Quality difference between the Kenwood and EQ to the 800PRS was night and day. I am running 6 RD Alpha components active. With the Kenwood and EQ, all cross overs were on the amps. Which I won't get into to much as it is kind of embarrassing. Once I had it all set up and ready to go I set the amps crossovers to "full" and turned on the Pioneer. The sound gained a lot of warmth to it, and became much clearer even with ZERO tuning and just turning it on. After setting up the cross over points on the radio and running the Auto T/A, which got it VERY close to where I wanted it, I adjusted the 16 band L/R EQ and fell in love. The sound is VERY well staged, bearing in mind the fact I have 3 mids/3 tweeters per door and everything sounds as it should with little peakiness I can discern in the frequency range. Review of the 880PRS in my Girl Friend's Mustang: We got her radio on an AMAZING deal from Bruce Johnroe, WrenchGuy off MWCS.net. Took a few days to ship which didn't matter to her or me as I know he works crazy hours. When we got it it had all the parts, even the microphone which everyone looses. The differences between the 800 and 880 that I have noticed are as follows; All copper chassis on the 800, with standard chassis on the 880, the 800 has a black finish on the face plate while the 880 has a silver finish, and finally the 880's speaker wires are thicker then the 800's indicating that Pioneer figured out that you had in mind you will use mids/highs amps with these units instead of the on board amplifier. The user interfaces are EXACTLY the same, only differences are caused by one being in "Net Work" mode and the other in "Standard" mode. The buttons on the Faceplate are the exact same, as well are the little switches on the side for "Net Work" and "Standard". In her car she has the Mach 460 Sound System that comes stock with the car, it has sounded good up until now off a Kenwood X794 like the one I had. I took that one out and replaced it with the 880PRS in "normal" mode for now until she gets her 4-channel and new component set. I CANNOT express enough how much I LOVE the sound the 800/880 produce, it is simply astounding. The radio sends the signal from the speaker wires to the stock amps out to the stock components. The staging I was able to achieve was not that spectacular as she still has the rear speakers playing and the head unit only changes the front/rear and side/side not the individual tweeters/mids as it does in "Net Work" mode. But even still, it is decently staged with again a much warmer sound coming out the speakers. In conclusion I must say that these may be some of the most well built Pioneer Radio's of all time, and defiantly some of the best sounding. I cannot foresee my self NOT running a PRS for a long time. Maybe even getting their newest the "99PRS".

Never mix sub woofers sizes, it causes lots of issues. The fact that you would even consider this shows you need to learn a little more before dropping that kind of money on woofers.

Yeah, give you all the dimensions and such for the box.

I can design it for you. Either woofers is going to suit you well. Just chose which ever is cheapest. lol

Of course it did. With a 240 amp alt the amp is easily going to burn past the alt voltage and go directly to batt voltage. Well with 4 DD M3's he only dropped to low 13's.....

That is VERY true, much cheaper per watt. Have you thought about 2 AQ3,500's?

If they were cheaper I'd consider investing in one..... my 250 sp's need a challenge. The Warhorse is the only practical choice. lol Which is exactly what I'm going to if I have one more problem from my sundown amps. What issues are you having?

Anything above 1000rms should have a second battery in the rear. That AQ2200 is a perfect match with either the AQ sub or the SSA sub. I'd go for the Xcon with the AQ 2200. That will get nice a low. The AQ and SSA are both far superior to the MTX. lol

If they were cheaper I'd consider investing in one..... my 250 sp's need a challenge. The Warhorse is the only practical choice. lol

Welcome!!

Friend of mine had 7 NSB 90's and a 240amp alt powering one of these at 1ohm. STILL had voltage drop into the low 12's. Very stout amp, makes real power at .5ohm daily.

I will have a video up in about an hour of 2 12"s I did in my GF's Mustang. VERY good lows and still tuned to 35Hz. Plays every note of Put On almost the exact same loudness.

Simple as the title states, what's the best way into the industry? I have been wracking my brain for over a year now, and it's the only career I want.

I now own both units so I will post a review on both soon. Sorry for digging up an old thread, just Googled 880PRS. lol

I have seen a lot lately people posting threads asking about their woofers SQ and woofers SPL in different enclosures. Also, using the same to compare different woofers like, " I don't wanna loose any SQ and but I want a lot of SPL." I'll start with SQ, most "SQ" woofers you will see are less then 1000w and are optimized for sealed enclosures to aid with a flat response. When most people talk about woofers and their SQ, they just want it to not sound like shit, not a flat response. It's takes 10% or more Total Harmonic Distortion to hear it. Most people wouldn't even notice it at that level. So next time you say you want to say you want SQ from your woofer, please reconsider what you are looking for. Now onto to SPL, SPL stands for Sound Pressure Level which is the atmospheric pressure generated from your sub-woofers. This has NOTHING to do with the audible loudness of the stereo to the ear. Audible loudness is achieved with a lower tuning and larger net enclosure. Higher SPL is achieved with a much higher tuning around 45Hz and slightly smaller enclosure. Tuning higher for better SPL numbers will severely limit the sub woofer to the frequency range it can play, usually making it VERY peaky at the resonant of the vehicle with very bad drop off from the peak, and will reduce the audible loudness of the woofer on music. This explains why when you sit in a vehicle that does a 155 at 55Hz and it doesn't seem as loud as a vehicle doing 150 at 40Hz. So when you say you want higher "SPL", I think you want high numbers and don't care about the woofers ability to play music. So specify whether you want audible loudness or a higher numeric value on the meter. Any MODS/Admins that feel like this is lacking something, please, feel free to edit in what you think should be in it.

Blue is better then you. That's why.

Then change your box if you are not happy with it. I'm sure it is incorrect.

Post on SMD and CACO!! Many more people will see this there and get a lot of backing! I posted my organizations opposition to this gross injustice.

It's all about enclosure. You can't have high SPL and a musical enclosure. And you don't want SQ, as that is usually 1 woofer in a sealed enclosure on less then 1000w. You can have an enclosure that sounds good and is loud. I would go for the Fi BL with the 4" coil for the traits you are looking for.

So far man, I can tell you a totally new to this. You don't need to drop $1,400+ dollars into a 3000 and a BTL if you still had the thought of a capacitor. You would need a H/O alternator and at least two large batteries to power an SAZ3000. I think an AQ2200 would be best for a BTL 18" for your application.

I think you need to do a little reading up on how this all works. Your ideas are slightly skewed.