CBFryman

I think I found my Hobie. If all goes well and the winds of change are on my side (no pun intended...ok, maybe) I may be picking it up in the next week.

I know guys never do anything wrong ... but what the hell did you do? my ex and her friend went to vegas for the weekend, while they were gone, i moved all of my stuff out, and i told her that it was over when she got back sunday night i now realized this is uber insensitive, but i thought it'd be the fastest, cleanest, most drama-free way to do it at the time Damn dude. Props for brakeing up the man way.

4cuft is pretty small. If I where to shoot in the dark I'd start around 6cuft.

I tried that, it was no fun.

pfftm 0.5ohm pwnz you guys. Very nice write up sean.

Curious as to the origin of that math sense it really makes no sense because it totally fails to account for load and thus current which are vital to any electrical power calculation. According to this, 30V on the output at 14V on the input is going to be the same output wattage regardless of load on the output. Good catch. I didnt see that before. RMS Vac output * RMS Aac Output = Apparent Power. Vdc input * Adc input = Powerdraw on the system many Clamp meters can not read DC current though Apparent Power / Power Draw* 100 = approxamite amplifier efficnecy at that level.

Good list. I have all of that but the brad gun. Well, not as fancy. Black and Decker and Ryobi bits for my router.

This topic is over a year old. I already built my box with biscuts, and just glue and clamps, and a few other things. I've also used a number of different glues.

Reguardless, if it's loud to my ears it will be loud to his. The box has survived being smacked around and a good ammount of beating already. Putting my hand on the box I cant detect any vibration. Today or tomarrow I will get it on the Mic.

I thought it was upload, download to a server. Where as Kazaa, Morpheous, excetera are upload, download from random people on the internet who happened to be online at the time.

Exactly. Most of the artists are not the ones screaming about the laws. It's the guy who knows how to milk/leech a good thing. If the artist is screaming about it then I probably am not listening to them anyway.

Heh. Primer then clear coat...that's all you need. If he has painted boats then he should do fine. As everyone else has already said. Prep is very important and can be a bitch.

The box is fine, trust me. I listened to it for 30min today. These SSD's wang hard. I havent touched the back deck or the back seat and it deffanitely sounds like it's over 140 already. Takeing out hte rear speakers and the padding behind them and cutting away the foam where the arm rest is and replaceing it with aluminum mesh, removeing the pressure bladder for just a hole and letting the SSD's brake in and I have no doubt I will reach my goal of 143dB. The box was built that way for a reason, the trunk had to still remain somewhat of a trunk. The back bumper is the onlything rattleing. The cheap plastic is flexing like 1"

99% of the people working on all of these royalty laws need to be shot where they stand.

There are a few on line. I've helped with automotive quality finishes before. You'll need a good quality spray gun, high grit sand paper, primer, paint and clear coat (of course), tack cloth, and some sort of jerry rigged booth ( a garadge with an air purifier and a heater with a lot of drop cloth plastic works). What primer you use will depend on what he is doing. If he is just painting over existing paint that doesnt need body work and isnt pealing then he will not need a high build primer, any good quality automotive primer will work. If he is doing body work then a high build primer may be in order. Color will depend on the final finish. You can either do a contrasting color to what you are painting to make sure you get even coating (better for everyone except skilled painters) or similar color to accent the paint that is going on. Be sure to wet sand where needed between coats and once you have uniform, full color clear can be shot. Always wipe down the surface with tack cloth before painting. When you get to clearit is vital to wet sand between coats. Bump the pressure up if it is an adjustable gun to get a finer mist. This avoids cat eyes and runs in the clear (a pain to get out without damageing the paint underneath). After you have uniform clear and the car is wet sanded where needed, a good buff with rubbing compound and a good wax and she'll shine like she just came off of the lot.

That is a nice price.

Man I wish I had gotten into this. Is it P2P or does it have a server like Napster did?

Must be operator error, I can't believe that you had Raamat troubles. The adhesive works really well and it comes off the paper fine. Of course, I have only used 7 total rolls so perhaps there is some fluctuation but I have never seen it. It is very stickey, it is also very runny. It is a lot like old asphault sound deadening. SS is stickey, but you can reposition it and it is solid. If it sticks lightly you can pull it and move it. Once you roll it on, however, it does not come off easily. If you do suceed to pull it off it will come off and not leave a black residue. I tried that with RAAMatt...it came off much easier and left a black residue. You guys may like it. I will pay the extra $0.20 a sqft in the future.

Who said anything about doing custom trunk work? Custom work was the tweeters in the dash and I was going to do door pods, but it worked out better to put them in the door and do more work to the doors. The trunk is not near finished. I still have to mount the crossovers and hide all of the wires. When it is all said and done you wont see any wires. Just the box, the amps, and the two crossovers. The spare tire will be mounted in it's stock location and easily acessed and there is still room to put three full doccer bags in the trunk. I did exactly what he wanted. How can you say the paint is blotchy with out seeing it in person? The paint has reflective sparkles in it and is textured. That could possibly account for the blotchness on camera. When I painted I did a 1st coat, then on the 2nd coat I ran a texture roller on it to give it more volume, then did a third coat. On the back it is very blotchy...but it got two flat cloats as I just wanted to put some color on it. It wont be seen, just like the bottom wont be seen.

The finish doesnt look blotchy in person. I dont know why it shows up like that on camera. My hands got dirty because the adheasive is so runny. The paper is piss poor and continued to tear so I would have to start it agian. Second Skin is just a superior product.

what is this anyway?

I might be blind, but that looks like a single din. There looks like there is room for expansion but it will be tight. However that may be to your advantage.

In your case and osciliscope, and the two RMS meters is the route to go. If you just want to know aparent power (what 90% of these RMS tests you see on the web are) then skip the osciliscope except for gain setting.

Be really good with fiberglass and body work and you can make it look stock. It could just be a simple cut depending on the vehicles. If you could get us a pictuer or at least tell us what car it is we might be able to hlep you more.

Without Me "Two trailor park girls go 'round the outside" If there is one rapper I will still be listening to in 15 years it will be eminem. The beastie boys too. It's ashame he has gotten older and more mature/wanna be gangster.