audiolife

Sweeet I have carpet if you wish to go that route would be pretty easy to color match.

LOL smells like roses?

did you gitter done?

Looked like a pretty good show, 181 a 180 and a 179 and a load of sq show cars. Some looked totally insane (in a good way)

If all you need is a 24 bit D/A and time alignment I would look into the kenwood excelon 994 or 794

Just be friends with aides for democrats on abanking committees they seem to invest on insider trading, buy in and sell at the exact right times LOL

Depends on what type of battery, generally if its AGM and you notice it resting under 12.7v i would put it on an intelligent auto matic regulated for AGM charger as it will more fully charge your battery than your alt will or can. You want to push back against sulfation as much as you can and a more complete charge = less loss/potential loss to sulfation. For a wet flooded cell (normal battery) if it were down to 12.5ish I would use the same type of charger on it as it is safer and charges more fully and requires less guess work. If you find yourself having to do this often I would check your wiring and alternator/regulator.

I would look into the ctek mus7002.

You're looking at this all wrong, AH really.. in all honesty doesn't mean a whole lot. You're not going to be DISCHARGING your battery over 24 hours at xx amps that is how AH is figured. Lets use 1,000 watts as a level for how much battery power we need, XS suggests the D925 ($139.99) while replacing your front starting battery. On the other-hand Kinetik suggests the HC1400. If you keep your starting battery you'll be able to go up to a maximum of 2,000 watts rms with the XS if you were to do that with the Kinetik you would have to upgrade to a whole new battery. Big thing, are these REAL kinetik batteries? You may get no warranty, you may get fake batteries when buying from Amazon because Amazon doesn't do all the selling, they're a lot like Ebay. IIRC Kinetik batteries do not do well on anytrhing higher than 14.4v they start to go downhill really quick or explode. Ahh so if an alternator can't keep up with an audio system a small battery can and not need recharged? What is the state of charge on a small battery after 30 minutes of a constant on off drain of lets say 30-80 amps? Can that battery recharge itself faster than it is being drained? What is going to reach a state of charge of 30% faster a small battery or a big battery? If your electrical can't keep up will the smaller more drained battery be susceptible to sulfation? Do you know how well the battery was cared for or wired in the set up? judging from the stickers on it can very well be 8 years old now and more than likely over 4-5 years years old when the picture was even taken. If you allow a battery to sulfate it will not charge correctly from a charger that does not sense sulfation (charger or alternator). Could a bottle neck in the connections generate heat or un equal discharge and charge? Does XS cover a swollen battery? Is it considered abused or over charged? In the warranty does it state about not allowing the cells to be charged past 2.4 volts per cell? Does it state anywhere that the battery should be charged up at a minimum of 12.6 volts or 2.1 volts per cell? Why must it be kept higher than 12.6? Could it become stratified or sulfated ?

AGM batteries are still lead acid batteries that can and will sulfate if not kept properly charged. If you are short on alternator power more capacity battery wise can help the thing is you must not let a battery be kept at a low state of charge. Regular batteries, AGM, GEL and maintanance free batteries can and do sulfate. In fact a battery that is old and worn out dies because it sulfates. The more deeply you discharge a battery the more it can/will sulfate. Leave a battery sit around without a charge on it, it will self discharge and sulfate. If a battery even discharges it sulfates, on the otherhand charging desulfates it. If it is heavily sulfated you may need a special charger that pules the sulfer off the plates or you can go old school on a battery and spend 2 or 4 days cycling batteries back to health as long as it isn't crystalized. If the sulfur crystalizes it has pretty much screwed the pooch.

More for your money, the float voltage of a Xs is around 13.4v on the other hand a Kinetik is around 12.4. When buying a battery from say amazon you have to factor in the shipping costs.. You may see the 150 price tag then they don't tell you the shipping is 100 dollars +. Do you mean OCV? A kinetik will rest at 12.8 to 13.1 volts when fully charged and taken off the charger/ alternator for a few hours and if you leave it sag at 12.4 volts you are running a battery that is not at 100% charge or close to it and you are more than likely playing with a sulfated battery (would take months to drop to 12.4 volts). I have quite a few batteries from several brands sitting in my garage that I charge weekly and none are resting above 12.95 volts.

Your amp can potentially pull more than your alternator can put out no matter what battery you get you must be able to maintain a reasonable charge to it/them otherwise they will end up getting trashed in a much shorter time. I would add the 1400 to the back and get a ctek 7002 to make sure your batteries stay charged up correctly. Regular water battery needs to be kept up at 12.5v at least and an AGM should be kept up above 12.7v. A higher output alt would be a very good idea regardless but even then I would still get a charger.

If the car has a trunk IB the IDQ and end the thread ...if its a hatch back/suv/extended cab truck it will depend on the music you like.

Should be pretty good. The mid looks interesting. There are a few sets I would say the 2 way were "like" but it is also a bit different because these had 600 watts a side where the others I have heard had about half that and more than likely more tuning. Quality speaker for sure though.

These are some pretty nice speakers, had a chance to hear some and I must say they sounded different than I thought they would. Very dynamic when I was expecting basic dynamics with a mellow tone just by looking at the tweeter. They are far from harsh and far from being an old folks speaker. Very lively while not being overly brite.

More than likely the computer is relearning. Some cars and trucks will get nasty idle for a bit. Had a bout with a 1998 dodge ram about 10 years ago. Disconnected the battery to hook up a cd changer. The owner thought we messed up the truck even after his dodge mechanic told him what it was. After about 10 minutes all was fine then he got home decided to disconnect his battery again to be sure only to bring it back in to have his presets reprogramed LOL. As for the battery it should read between 12.8-13 volts open circuit voltage when it is fully charged and allowed to rest a few hours after charging. Good little chargers for AGM batteries are Ctek US 3300 or US 7002. They desulfate, have a tightly regulated charge and can be used as a maintainer. If you see your battery resting below 12.7 volts it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a Ctek on it.

Nice speakers very aggressive without being overly aggressive maybe "musically aggressive" but not fatiguing

Come on now you should be like me and finish kicks 3 years after you start them LOL

Ever gitter done?

They are pretty stout for the price and I have messed with them before not at .5 ohm daily but at .67 for burps.

Cranking hours? I thought that a CA test was a 30 second test that ran a battery down to 7.2 volts with the majority of the time the battery drops lower than 10v in under 1 second. Hell even the pulse tests are 5 second tests that are ran down to 7.2 v or 6v. Those voltages are unusable.

Just because a battery has a warranty does not at all mean that it is warrantied just because the battery no longer works. If you over discharge it, overcharge it, leave it undercharged and or allow it to sulphate you would not be covered under a warranty as those are not manufacturer defects and are generally specified under warranty NOT to be covered. You might think it is no big deal but those situations are the reasons why about 85 to 95% of why batteries fail. About the only situation where this might not hold true is with long term wet flooded cell warranties where you pay 2x as much as the battery used to cost just so you can end up with a "pro rated" warranty down the road where you basically pay a sale price to replace your old "X" many years down the road..

actually the odyssey pc2150 is 753.87 don't measure post height it is within the 800 rule.

You can give the recondition mode a shot. When lead acid batteries are left at a low charge state the chemicals break down and sulfur forms on the lead and eventually crystallizes. When this happens the crystals can actually crack the lead plates because they grow in the pores of the lead or stop the chemical reaction of recharging. That is why I always suggest using an intelligent charger for batteries to stop batteries from sulfating. An alternator will bulk charge a battery to 80-90% but eventually the uncharged portion can become sulfated and that 80 to 90% becomes the new 100% unless fully charged a few times with no plate damage. Most reconditioning/desulfation modes are a higher voltage very low current or pulses used to try to break up/blow off the sulfur from the battery plates. I have seen it work and not work before but sulfation is what actually kills lead acid batteries before their time, just depends on how bad it gets or is allowed to get. The faster you can recharge a battery from a low state of charge the better. I have seen and read about some VERY high dollar aviation batteries go down the tubes by improper care (forgetting to plug in to a maintainer for a couple of weeks to a month).

the part about XS and Kinetik? Fair enough. I was just an opinion. The problem with Kinetik's web calculator is that they don't account at all for the efficiency of the amplifier(s) in question when figuring battery life based on wattage. It may not sound like a big deal, but when amp efficiency can range from 50%-85%+ and we're dealing with well into the 4 digit range for wattage, and well into triple digits for current draw, it can matter. Anyway, for what it's worth I'm using Kinetik 2400s now, myself. By no means are they "bad." I just prefer the XS products, given the choice. Thats kind of a double edged sword as class a/b's efficiency generally goes up with volume/power. 50% eff at 1/3 power and being 85%+ at 1/3 power is different when you are using more than 1/3 power. Many class a/bs eff jumps up when using more than 1/3 to the high 60 to mid 70's and many class d's efficiency's fall when driving 1 ohm loads and under at or near full power.