REVpuggie

Hey ! what do you think about this : aside from the fact that this is for a mid and held by a stainless-steel ring not shown in the picture (or anywhere else) and they are not tilted up that much because the windshield is used to reflect the sound wich wont do for your setup . the idea : a very strong pod wich breathes into the inner space of the dash . what is needed to do : the dash needs to be deadened and cladded in foam ,we did the whole back of the dash and foamed the heating/aico air-channels as well . we also used masking tape as suggested to protect the dash , on and around the speakerholes in the dash . I made some mdf rings for the baffle and breathing hole (so it looks clean on the inside ) put "v shaped head" bolts in the holes of the orinal speaker mouning holes .and let them stick out a bit . then we put an 1 inch layer of fiber filled putty on around the speaker holes , let that harden for a while . the mdf rings where aligned the way we wanted (on axis in your case) and fixed to the fiberfilled putty with ..... fiberfilled putty ... let that harden . take the contraption out and fill up everything you missed again with the fiber filled stuff then roughly give (sand/fill) it the shape you want with more fiber filled putty . further shaping is done with soft putty . shizzle the mdf out carefully in layers ..and glue a new mdf baffle in , this time with speakerhole .... sand some more . now it is ready for painting / carpetting when mounted : behind the speakers you can experiment tune the fullrange speakers with wool . there things are rocksolid a weigh a heap ... exactly what you need ! cheers !

*update* turns out the TB 1401's were in backorder a whole heap , so I started looking for something else , came across the Peerless 830987 3inch fullrange speakers , it offeres the powerhandling I was looking for and personally I think they look good and the T/S look hopefull (lets just hope them little rascals really are "peerless"). so I ordered those , should be in March the 5th a little link :my 3inchers

you not gonna build my suggestion ?

interested in how you're gonna put this in your car , any ideas on whre and how you wanna mount the fostexes ? gooking good though .

you be patient tattoo-man ! I only get to work one day a week on install's , often the things I build take a lot of time ... or maybe I'm just slow idk

PM'd you a box calculation I had laying around for wuite a while now , not going to use it . should do numbers .

I think that if AA wanted the info out in the open they'd allready done so . so hold your guns .

you're right about the IB stuff , you just try to make your whole door as stiff as 3/4 mdf that is braced every x inches , and 100% airtight is something a door will never be eighter . so aim for as airtight and stiff as possible . plans look solid !

hey bro , working hard I see ! hate to be nag , but I got some tips for you . in the first picture , all that wood in the back or most of it should not be there , what you got now is a very small box with a really big hemholz chamber . It should be way more open , also it would be better to bolt your kick-pod directly to the door with the help of a few extra rings . and dampen the door itself inside the door and then seal the door up by sealing all the holes exept for the waterdrainage with aluminum strips(for the bigger holes) and dynamat , creating an (close to) sealed enclosure of 1 to 2 cuft , whitch will allow you to cross your mid even lower and sound good ! make the doorpanel a bit more stiff/heavy with damplifier/dynamat or bitumus against resonations hope you don't think of me as an ass now

turns out the ones I want aren't in stock ...then the waiting game began , ... posted some other stuff in a topic here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/Guys-Pandas-t36748.html&p=629281&fromsearch=1#entry629281 not my own car but hey , gotta keep busy ! I'll email the guy where my 3" are !and will get back to ya

So how do I go about this , do I email someone or are the T/S going yo be posted up any time soon on a forum or on the AA website ? want to make a backloaded horn for it so simply giving box recomendations won't work for me . thanx.

as for a daily driver I'd stick to hatchbacks ( golf, A3, 306/307 , focus , magane ) if you want to peak really low go bigger ...an Espace or Vito could be an option .

over here panda / marbella compete in their own db-drag class . I'm working on one ...turning one into an SQ car.... A few pics if you'll allow me to : accomodating space to run wires through a rubber. made space to house a big battery ( stainless steel housing) full custom doorpanels with a kick driver high up in the door ....and yes thats a stainless steel ring holding the 6.5'kick driver finally the rings for the mids , which i think are uber-sexy ! sorry bout that ... this is a topic about panda's right ?

I think you're missing my point ....but yes that is what it was called .

I hate : bring it on ,highschool musical, dirty dancing ! and their sequals even more or any movie that resembles those *edit* exept for that movie there 2 guys decide to go to cheer-summercamp instead of football-camp , that shot when the arrived at cheer-camp I was like I'd recommend : Taken

interested in results ! a piano finish is difficult to paint , hope you are good painter .

this is starting to look good , still a lot of work though !

this calculation aplies too all ports that are flared ... up to the point where port-compressionbecomes an issue . I was referring to the walls of a port , when air flows close to a surface its will always be turbulent because the air tries to stick to that suface which acts like a cushen and thus makes the effective portarea smaller . the higher the speed of the air the thicker that cushen gets . the less surface there is that the air is to cling to the less turbulence there is close to that suface , the smoother that surface the less turbulent also . That is why I'd try to minimize the number of ports difficult for me to type out this stuff because english is not my native language, hope you all get my point

thats the first time I've read or heard anywhere . aside from the fact that a slotted port has portarea losses in the corners because of the extra turbulence and often doesnt have kerfed ends (what actually alows you to keep the port shorter) , I see no reason why an aeroport would require half the surface-area , ofcourse the inner suface of an slotted port needs to be smoothed to minimize air-turbulence in the port and that is what what a lot of people forget to do .... the way I see it : the purpose of an aeroport defeats itself when you need more than 2 of them , inner-port surface area is key , offcourse if you want to do more than 2 for aesthetic reasons or because you're to lazy to smoothen a slotted port , I've got nothing against it ... both works just fine . oh one more note , I've seen tenth's gained by smoothing an aeroport , so those aren't that smooth eighter (tuning practically did not change) .

on how much power are you planning to achieve this , and how much cabingain does your car have ... , looking at my calculations this should be very possible .

I googled the guy , didn't have a clue ! I can asure you my fishing skills are non-existant ,tried it a few times when i was younger (I'm not that old) always came home emptyhanded

Try the stuff I said

could you post up some pictures of how you made your doors ? and how did you cross the 2 way ? have you tried playing with the righthand kick/mid out of phase ? quite possibly you're lacking output because the kick/mids are not playing at full potential .

thrash the box and build a new one , measure the hole in the baffle and/or see if the woofer fits well ....before you glue it to the rest of the box ! once you've done that you'll never make that same mistake again ! don't take half measures it will only make things worse ! thats the best advice i can give you.

Well , I made my choice . first one to be tested is going to be the tangband W3-1401sd . lets hope it will perform good enough in the top end .. if it doesnt work out I'd might try the Markaudio allpair6 gold round or the Tangband W3-1231SN