Jay-C76

welcome to the forum!

keep it at a windows media file not an MP3.

It sounds like when you're either ripping the song to you hard drive the bit rate it low or when you are converting it to an MP3 file you have the bit rate set too low. I have a JVC H/U and I can't tell the difference between cd and usb. Mine also have a volume control for each input source, mine are all at zero. If I turn up either control, it just gets louder.

Not fueling the fire again but, I glue, clamp, and screw each and every panel... Never once had a blow out... Just make sure the surfaces are clean before you apply the glue. The dust left over from cutting will weaken the glue joint.

Nice intro, this guy's got class. Welcome to the forum! You should find what you're looking for here. Love the screen name BTW...LOL

Whoa! Need a helmet on when you read through this! LOL Don't wanna get hit with a off the wall attempt at belittling somebody... Ignorance can be fixed, stupid is forever. Guys remember no matter how stupid the question may seem to some, it may not seem so dumb to others. At one time we've all asked questions we wish never fell out of our mouths. There are a ton of variables that can apply to each install. That's why there's comps. It's too hard to say (ballpark) how loud anything will be in anywhere until it's installed and working properly. As for cracking the windshield.... There are a lot of factors that come into play when this happens. Anything from a bad piece of glass, improper installation, extreme temps, has glass ever been impacted by anything, the list goes on, and on.... Unless you're dumping a small power plant and a ton of extra batteries into the Evo, there shouldn't be an issue.

Citations for loud stereos are a joke and a slap in the face.... Why can a dude on a Harley rip down the road cranking on his throttle and I can't have my stereo up half way? Mostly around my area they write you up for disturbing the peace. That in itself can be real vague as far as who's peace you are actually disturbing...LOL I can understand if the music has the "F-Bomb" screaming out of your windows, but there has to be common ground somewhere... It just gives the police a reason to stop you and search your vehicle, all while being lectured and belittled by the officer. When I first installed my Icon's I got pulled over near downtown Cincinnati by a Cincinnati cop simply because he wanted to see my stereo up close and personally. He said it sounded pretty good compared to what he normally hears and had to check it out. Aside from wasting a half hour of my time, he was pretty cool about everything and sent me on my way.

unbiased opinion, either one will be fine. both will be fine for music, but when push comes to shove the Xcon might be louder. It depends on the in car, true life readings though.

Nice!! You can tell you really are taking your time to make sure things turn out top notch!

NOOOOO! On the clear before you paint! Paint doesn't like to stick to slick, glossy surfaces to well. I gotta ask first, did you use a good primer before the paint? If not....then you're like a dog chasing his tail. Good prep work (sanding), a few good coats of primer, some more sanding, and you can pretty much use any kind of paint you want, even on cut edges.

I kinda meant clean the surface completely and use hard rollers to apply the material (butt end of a screw driver in tight places) Even tape won't stick to dirt and grime. Unless the car just came off the factory line, there's going to be a film of dirt. Simply wiping with a paper towel and standard household cleaners won't completely clean it either. Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits used carefully will clean the surface the best. On my truck cap I used a ton of denatured alcohol and what seemed like a ton of rags. Also foil tape goes a long way on the edge seems. In industrial sheet metal work I've often had to install the same type of materials on the outside of air handler units and some duct work that often sees temperatures far beyone what your car will ever be exposed to. With a good butyl based mat there won't be an issue and the material will last for many years.

simple math will help out. If a radius is 3" on the outer surface, then the diameter will be 6". Multiply the 6 by pi (3.14) This will give you the circumference. (in example 6 x 3.14 = 18.84) 18.84 will be the total distance around the outer side of the circle. You need a quarter of a circle so, divide the 18.84 by 4 and you get 4.71 (4 and 23/32 of an inch.) On the kerf add about 3/8" on each end to the overall length. (when cutting) This will make things easier on you when you install the kerfed panel.

I've used B-Quiet on my past two installs. If it's installed correctly there will be no issue of melting. Mine's been in my truck for 3 years. No sagging or melting. Not even on the roof of my truck cap.

Layout the kerf on a panel that intersects. Like pictured above, the kerf would be layed out on the rear piece. That way you can tell exactly where to start and stop the kerf. The layout will also help you when it comes time to assemble because you can maintain the smooth radius by following you're guide lines.

Welcome to the forum!

Holy cow! Now there's a door speaker! LOL Some ask why.......... j-roadtatts says why the hell not! (and I agree!)

should stick out like a sore thumb! I'll keep an eye out around Cincy...... F'n thieves deserve to take an underwater trip down the ole' Ohio!

Hove! Reply to my PM!!! LOL I've been working on it and I need some answers from ya! Oh.....and congrats on the 1st place win! Now let's try for the 150's! That way you can hold a 149.9 solid as a rock.

Get a phat ass retractable, mount that sucker in the ceiling! I'll help ya install it!!!

A via e-mail would be ideal. That way it's only in IAK hands unless some moron leaks it out.... If it's not on a public site then they have to either hack e-mail or somebody leaked the info.

Super Bad Ass !!!!

IMO... poor way to start the message - I don't actually see every post on the forum so I'm not ignoring anyone. In any event - the Xmax is the same as the 12s @ 19mm one-way linear. 1w/1m SPL is not really needed for any reason for subwoofers as it's measured at 1000 hz, IMO - but in case your program calls for it the figure is 83.3 dB Thanks man, I wasn't trying to sound like an a**. Typing on a forum is kinda informal (no sense of body language). Sorry if I came off as a weenie! LOL

I asked this question is another thread about the SA-10. Since I was ignored, I'd thought I'd try here. Anyone know the woofer specs for these? It's not on the main website. I need 2 things: Xmax = ?? SPL @ 1w/1m = ?? Trying to design an enclosure but I need these figures to pull it off. Help would be deeply appreciated.

Anyone know the woofer specs for these? It's not on the main website. I need 2 things: Xmax = ?? SPL @ 1w/1m = ??

How many rms watts is the amp and what type of "new alternator" stock or High Output? The lights will dim if the amp is drawing too much current (amperage) from the charging system. This usually can be fixed by installing a High Output alternator and adding extra batteries to the system.