Jay-C76

Very nice! Definitely cranking out good work.

Holy crap! Congrats on figuring out how to post pics. Now we're in trouble, they're flying out! I like the stang man!

Daaaaaammmmmnnnnnn! There's some weight right there!

Perfect day to make some saw dust!

Shows I have competed in have been really fun. I was welcomed & complimented by everyone I ever took the time to engage on a personal level. Several guys from on the forum here and from Team IAK & many other teams, were so welcoming and friendly. Yeah you had some friendly ball busting & pranks but it's all in fun. You have to have thick skin and let stuff slide off your back sometimes only to find yourself waist deep in another persons ride diagnosing a problem or saving the day with a spare fuse. I've been lucky to have made many awesome memories & had fun with a lot of people who I would have never met and become friends with. David, Chuck, Sean, papa chop, many many others..... Super awesome people, without competition and these shows I never would've been introduced to such amazingly, caring, & friendly people who shared the same hobby. I never came home with a trophy, but I always came back with memories that for all positive reasons I will never forget.

Skids of gear!

Absolutely 100% nuts! Freakin' insanely awesome!

Very clean man. Thought many times about doing this in my ranger, never pulled the trigger. Dialed in on this to see your progress!

Check spelling bro.....

I can actually have 4. Green is relative response which shows deviation from flat -vs- frequency. This is used to basically show any frequency roll off. The more flat of a line at zero the more the design is capable of playing a wider range of notes equally loud. Flat is very good for sound quality. Blue is spl (not in reality). This is used to trace applied power in & out. Yellow would be power trace. It's used to show power applied before possible mechanical or thermal failure. Pink would be cone displacement. Used for excursion -vs- frequency.

Never again will I put asphalt in any of my vehicles. It actually is a lot cleaner now. I spent another 4 hours on it and my shoulders are wrecked from wiping this crap off. Thank you. Between my work tools for sheet metal & my play tools for wood working I have my fair share. If you ask my ole' lady she says "do you really need all this crap?" I reply there's a tool for every job.

I used the four major brands from O'Reilly's to remove this crap. The Tarminator worked like a sand blaster getting this stuff loose. Everything else just turned it into a slimy goo. Two trash bags of rags later and I have made some descent progress.

Welcome to the forum!

Wherever you were they really need to water the grass and plant some trees! Odd place for a cross walk too.

You da man! Thank you!

I truly feel bad for your troubles with your local shop. There are only about 5% in the entire country that actually involve themselves in customer service. It's never their fault......complete bullshit in my opinion. I personally have helped out my fair share of people around me that have fallen victim of these local idiots. I'm not in any way saying it's one thing or the other. I'm just trying to help you self diagnose this issue by running through what I would check if I were there in person. I do give you respect for taking the initiative to dive in hands on and try to check things that myself and fellow forum members suggest. Most people who I come across treat anything like this as if they were asked to diffuse a bomb.

Is it detachable face? I had an issue a few years back where I didn't for some reason get a good connection when I snapped the face in and it felt locked in but the radio would shut off and back on randomly too.

Now that the head unit is out, can you lay it on your lap or a towel and gently wiggle each individual wire on the harness plug and at the red crimp connections to try to get it to simulate what's making it turn off? Basically process of elimination from point A to point B,C,D,ect......

Personally I don't like winisd I have had too many variances when I try to design using the program. Maybe it's just me. That being said, I have never had an issue with accuracy using TermPro. Most people don't usually need to design a lot of enclosures so spending money on a program isn't logical. I'm not sure why the two programs are so far off from each other on round port velocity. Here are pics of what I came up with, maybe you might see something I'm missing.

When I model this on TermPro, my results seem to be similar on the Relative graph. It's kinda peakish. But that's due to the t/s parameters of the sub. The graph doesn't look too hateful but, to get a more flat of a response the tuning would have to be stupid low. The roll off on the graph basically you're gonna have to deal with. As for the port velocity, a single 4" round models out way too high on velocity. I get a mach percentage of 17.54%. Using 2-4" ports cuts it down almost in half to 9.11% but also doubles the length of each to 20.54". Using a single 6" port at a length of a little over 23" which yields the lowest of 8.13%. All of this was done using your 2.5 cu.ft. net tuned to 33 hz at 1000rms. Based on the whole design of what you are actually trying to build and the space need to do so being vague, this is not really info that I would take off to the table saw with.

Any ideas of how to get the residue off without harming the fiberglass that the cap is made out of? As you can see gravity is working but it's making a huge mess. Most of the actual material came off but I am left with liquid drip now.

Quick simple way to check for a short on a coil would be a 9v battery on the speaker wires with them disconnected from the amp. Hold the neg. wire to the neg. post on the battery and quickly scratch the pos. wire on the pos. post on the battery, this will cause an audible sound and make the cone move. It's ghetto....but in a pinch it works if you don't have a meter to check for continuity.

You probably broke some of the stud post that bolt the glass. Quick fix maybe if you can't get to the inside of the glass to check the small nuts that fasten it to the hatch & the glass sealant (same stuff used on windshields) might be to get some black silicone caulk and fill the gap around outside edge.