jcarter1885

x2, but if your worried then get a 12" BTL since there is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer but either way you will be fine.

x2 or get a reducer to put on the end of the wire.

Wow very opinionated, keep it on topic fellas. Its about business more than what you guys want, yes Sundown is a good company and they make a good product but there not the best for every application or the only brand out there for that matter. Does it matter what a shop carries no not at all, if it does then go to a shop that carries the brand your looking for. There are more rules to business besides putting something on the shelf and selling it to make a profit. One of the main features to tackle in order to have a successful business is catering to your market, if you dont know your market or how to sell to them you will fail asap. If you have Kicker and so-called ghetto ass bass (whatever that is supposed to be) then you have a horrible install and not a product error. I never buy from a shop just for the reason above, I would rather pay half off or 2/3's of the price by buying online and waiting for shipping then just to have the products that day.

I like, I like

Have you thought about running one master and the other slave so all you have to do is just set one amp and it will control both, strap the amps together. I wouldnt say it is easy to eyeball since the settings on the amp may not be in the same place to where put the knobs but someone with more experience can chime in.

On my mids and highs amps I use 4 gauge wire, some use 8 gauge depending on size of amp and power/ground terminals. I wouldnt say the wire size will have an impact of midbass unless your using something like 12 gauge or something for your power and ground wires. How are they installed in the doors, any dampening or something of that nature?

My car is all sundown and people that just come by to hear it. But at the same time people like to stick with what they know. The best selling product in the shop are the Crunch ground pounder sub 100 for a 12" and Audio pipe 1500 for 250 So for alittle more then 500 they can have a system. The Sundown 1500 would cost that alone. 90% of the people that come into the shop don't care about TL number they just want the trunk to rattle. Alot of them just get in the car turn it up and get out to see how much it rattles. I will add Sundown but I need to grow alittle more so if it doesn't sell Quick atless it won't hurt my bottom line. Beside If it stay in the shop to long I would to fight myself not to put it my car....lol x2 Completely agreed, guys remember all of us in the beginning thought $500 for an amp or subs is expensive and wouldnt pay it (some still think the same way while others got over it). My friends nowadays want systems but want it done as cheap as possible, they see my sundown equipment and ask me to sell it. When i give them a price they change there mind or be like how much was it, when I tell them the price I got it for there jaws just drop. Everybody in car audio doesnt care about the best brand, some dont even treat this like a hobby while most do it just to have some bass in the whip. Other people have other hobbies, bills, family and collectibles to spend there money on instead of car audio like others.

Im not going to entertain the butt hurt at all. OP asking a blatant question with know information at all is not how you go about doing it on this forum, read the new member posting guidelines and go from there. Your question was simple and did not include valuable information at all to help give you a good answer. Big Jon gave you answer of 1200 rms but that all was install dependent, the sub takes 1000 watts standard and with the bl option added it gives you an extra 200-500 (maybe depending on install). Give more information on box size and tuning and any other information you can so we can help best answer your question. But to answer your question about how much extra power it can handle is all install dependent (box, tuning, impedence rise, your listening habits, and so on will play a role). Hope that helps, remember there is no problem with headroom and music is dynamic so like I said above it can be successfully if done right. To the OP's friend yes a good electrical will play a role in powering his amp but it will not have anything to do with him running double the rms to the subwoofer. I didnt comment on his electrical since he didnt ask will his system hold up well, he asked how much extra power they could handle. Second of all you dont count on impedence rise unless your competing (not important in a daily system since you cant control it). Read this: Why "daily" systems should not count on impedance rise - SSA Car Audio Forum

Yes thermally they will take more power but you gotta remember all subs dont fail from thermal failure, some fail because of mechanical failure as well so its not always can they take the power thermally. It will boil down to enclosure and how you play your sytem, your electrical as well. Set your gains correctly and be smart with the volume on your headunit, remember you have to worry about thermal and mechanical problems when it comes to running more than rms to a subwoofer. If done correctly then yes it can be successful.

If you're planning on redoing your system later with more power, you might as well get the beefiest alternator you can. go for the 270xp if possible. x2 especially if your going to upgrade in the future, find the biggest alternator you can right now.

Thanks!! Yep, You got it, but I don't think he will be hunting male spiders.

Real Fresh , I like the theme because The Hunter also applies to the spider. The spider on the door looks like a black widow with the red mark and we all know Black Widows are hunters, they look for male spiders just to mate with them and then kill them.

That is still to high volume wise unless you set your gains to allow you to turn your volume that high (usually you dont want to go higher than 75-80%) of max volume. Dont think cause others can hear your system you done a good job, music is for your enjoyment and not others at all unless they are riding with you (please be respectful with your system). I doubt it sounds like 2-18"s but I dont want to bust your bubble, congrats on your new equipment and glad your enjoying it. One reason why you may be louder than your friends is the fact he has sq subs and you dont, but there are thousands of other factors on why you can be louder than him (more cone area and power does no always equal louder but most times it will). It depends, everything in car audio is install dependent (he may have major flaws in his setup).

If you have to ask then you dont know about speakers distortion or tolerances or limits. Throw power at them till you notice any of those signs of stress from your subs. Since this is your philosophy and you live by this code then why would you ask this if you been doing it for this long without any problems. RMS ratings are there to help protect the sub, just dont be upset if you need recones soon. Music is dynamic so those subs wont see all 2000 rms every second of every minute, just keep and eye out for subs and your box plays a role into power levels as well (smaller boxes helps subs take more power).

Nice videos , what are the specs on the box?

and welcome.

Thats not what im asking but thanks for sharing because i was thinking port back and subs up as well too. I wanna go subs and port to the rear, 2-12" subs (undecided and power is undecided but around 3500 or better). Im just wondering if there is a certain power level that will require me to go subs and port forward and sealing off the cabin from the trunk instead of whats best (port and subs to the rear).

If you face the sub and port forward into the cabin then you will lose some of the low end and you will have to seal it off the cabin from the trunk. To get the best sound usually, port and subs to the rear is a winner.

I know what works best in the car to get a better sound (thats rear firing) and what is the best tuning frequency for a good blend of output/low end. Im talking about if I go forward firing subs and port because of the amount of power Im running then I want to know what applies to firing forward? Basically its a two-part question: 1. Are there power requirements that allow you to not operate firing your subs to the rear that well? 2. If so then what is a good tuning frequency for forward firing port and subs to get a good blend of low end (firts priority) then output (second priority)?

thanks for the input Julian

When it comes down to the option of which way to fire your subs and port in a trunk I was wondering did the amount of power you were running made a difference if you have to fire your subs forward (into the cabin) or to the rear (back of the trunk)? I know that it can be a personal preference and is ususally done when people are competing or wanting more output fro m there setup but I was just curious does power level play a role even if it is a daily driver. On a side note I have heard some of the low end is sacrificed when forward firing as well since it takes the waves longer to bounce off something, will a lower tuning help out with this issue? Will the issue be that noticeable if you were to have a tuning of 33-35hz vs. 31-33hz vs 28-30hz tuning, I know it is not that big of a difference in those tuning levels just curious as to which tuning level will have excellent lows and excellent ouput (daily driver ground pounder) with a forward firing design? Thanks fellas just weighing all my options on designs before jumping in the water on a big build.

He may be a little busy at the moment with the release of the nightshades recently, check out Fi Car Audio or Fixmyspeaker.com as well if Jacob does not respond to you in time. But try emailing him as well so he can get back to you a little quicker.

Either a rebuild or an upgrade

Thats not overkill on the seat belts IMO, now everyone will want to buckle up with those kinds of seatbelts.

and welcome