jcarter1885

So your gonna have you sub crossed from 50hz on down on a low pass filter. Then your gonna have your midbass speakers play bandpassed from 60hz-100hz and I guess have some components to play from 120hz on up. Maybe Im reading this wrong but that seems like these are your goals, correct me if im wrong.

How high in the frequency range do you want these to play, where will your tweeters/high be crossed at? Most of those speakers are more for sub-bass duty then mid-bass duty but that depends on how high you want them to be crossed at.

Visit these sites to check out different drivers you can run: madisound.com parts-express.com usspeaker.com Go check out zaphaudio.com and see his reviews on speakers as well.

Its either going to be a single 15" BTL or 2-12" BTL's that will fit, doubt you can get the correct enclosure in that trunk for an 18".

Vids or

Does a black bear shit in the woods and whip his ass with a white rabbit? Yeap

Not a problem and keep up the bad ass boxes.

Mark LaFountain or denim (members name on here), shoot them a pm.

What amp did you get?

Sounds good, may not buy anymore amps for my mids and highs and just get the SAX-200.4 (its a beauty).

I would use welding wire instead of knukonceptz for all your electrical needs, Im in the process of replacing my all my knu wire now with some real copper cable. I get my remote wire from autozone or walmart.

Who knows if the Big 3 will help with this problem, but it will help with your system. The only way to tell is to do it and go from there, hope you get this resolved soon.

its insurance. the fuse is there just in case you get into a front end collision and the power wire gets pinched, which would short your battery and have the potential to turn a minor accident into a major fire and/or total loss Then why don't they come fused from the factory? Mine came fused from the factory.

and welcome

It looks good the only thing that looks like they didnt do is sand the paint where they ground to the frame, but if they did my fault. Did they do a ground wire from your engine block to car's frame or negative battery post as well. You can put a fuse between the positive wire going from the postive battery post to the positive alternator post, its up to you but the fuse will help in case anything happens so its a safety hazard or precaution. Some use a fuse and some dont, hope that helps.

The tinsel leads look tied down to me

I dont think you car running hot should affect the subs. Do you know why your car is running hot, has this happen before you put your subs in?

Any updates, videos, numbers, etc?

Im pretty sure Fi will make a thread on when the magnets arrive as well.

What is your budget as well?

I voted no, I used to use them only on my sub amps back in the day. Now I just use my Epic-160 to control the sub limit or the volume knob.

I remember the days of doing installs in the Florida heat (FTL) and it isnt much better in Texas but we gotta get work done, good luck with the rest of the install.

Start at the halfway marker and work your way down until it seems like your subs are reaching or going past there excursion limits. Once you get to that point, turn it up a little bit.