jcarter1885

Sounds good man

The brace you use is up to you, some use metal rods while others use pieces of wood (2x4s or however creative you can be). Check out some build logs and some of the builders on this site who build boxes to get an idea of bracing. Gain/Input should be set to what you preout voltage of your radio is. Bass Boost should be all the way down at 0. LPF should be anywhere between 60-90hz, depending where you have your components crossed at. Phase can be left alone but it is there to help the sub blend with the interior speakers, it wont hurt anything to play with it. Subsonic Filter should be 2-5hz below tuning of ported enclosure.

What are you gonna do with the PPI amp and Focal Components?

La Roux - In For The Kill

That amp is capable of producing the 1200 watts and then some as it is rated to do, but most of that depends on what your electrical will be. What do you mean do you have to adjust the amp to have a good loud sound, do you think you can just put the amp in the car and not touch any knobs and it works right away (im lost on that question). Yes you will have to tune the amp properly to get the most out of it. Yeah the BL should be louder than the Q but that is all install dependent. Its a mix of getting loud while sounding good doing it. Bracing will help but it is up to you, it really depends on how well you build the box (if you want to be extra cautious then go for it).

Looks good , do you like the subs with them facing up or back more?

Looking good so far , dont stop working

Get a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) and put the probes in the coil and test the coils, make sure you have the DMM on the right setting as well.

Yes you will be underpowering a BTL if you just ran one of them but there is nothing wrong with underpowering them. Yes you can run both of them to the BTL or sell both so you can get one amp to run to the BTL. If you cant strap the amps together then you will have to run one on each set of coils. Hope that helps

If your not gonna be going active in the future then dont get the CDA-9887 but if you plan on it then go for it. Since you said your gonna get components and a SAX-125.2 you wont need the CDA-9887 at all. You say you dont want to buy something then have to upgrade it in the future if that is the case then make a compormise and get the CDA-9887 whether or not you use those features only time will tell. This is a decision you will have to make man, hope this helps.

Sorry that had to happen to you, hopefully it is a minor issue and it wont be a wallet breaker to get fixed.

Happy B-day

Considering you gave no goals or important features your looking for in a headunit it will be hard to make a suggestion for you.

Yes the CDA-9887 is discontinued but some stores still have them in stock till they sell out. The CDA-117 will replace both the CDA-9886 and CDA-9887, it has features from both headunits and looses a few features as well from both units.

Excellent looking subwoofer , thinking about getting the 15" version myself. What do you plan to power it with?

Installing Sundown SAX-125.2 in a couple of days will have pictures of the amp after it is installed.

Go with whats in your budget and has the power you need, either amp will do.

Thats a bet, well im tuned in for this one.

Im ready for one ASAP!, when is the Pre-Order gonna begin?

Depends where you go and what tint you get, at least go to a nice spot and get the lifetime warranty. Anywhere from $100-$150 or better but its summer so shops are running deals plus the economy so they will work with you.

Not the worst price, but remember you get what you pay for so all in all its a good deal if you cant get in contact with DC Power (I had better luck calling them myself). Im paying $505 for a 275 alt so dont feel like your getting ripped off, its difficult to find h/o alternators for my car so I got to bite the bullet for that.

x2

Kicker CVX, Audique SDC2.5 among other subs in the same category will be next to be tested right? Keep up the hard work.

That will depend on your listening habits and how loud you play your system, get a volt meter and keep an eye on your voltage. To help your alternator out get a small battery charger and charge up the secondary battery every now and then.

You dont have to get a solenoid or isolator if you dont want to, wont harm your system at all. If anything one day upgrade your starting battery to a dry cell as well, a shuriken if you want to have matching batteries. Wire it the way you have it in the picture and do the Big 3 Wiring in 1/0 and you should be set, put fuses where they belong. If you plan to do a lot of jamming with the car off then yes you will need an isolator/solenoid between your batteries.