jcarter1885

Type your little notations bigger buddy, just put PS. in front of them or something (makes it hard to read with small letters). Yeah it will come down to the install but the SMD's wouldnt have been made if they werent superior to the BTL's.

Test them all out and give us a detailed review comparing and contrasting the different sets of components you have, this will be very helpful for the forum and members in the future.

Quick question for everybody on the board, I see that when people talk about the Big 3 (some say replace the wires, while most say not to touch the factory wires and add on). When I did the Big 2, negative battery terminal to chassis and engine block to chassis I replaced my wires. Did I affect any thing by replacing the wires, havent noticed any electrical problems at all just curious to see if it will affect me in the long run or anything? The negative battery terminal to chassis was a 4 gauge wire replaced with 2 runs of 1/0 awg wire. The engine block to chassis was a 4 gauge wire replaced with a run of 1/0 AWG wire. Thanks for any valid input and replies.

x2 (definitely done this one a lot), or you knock on it thinking it sounds wonderful and imagining how the sub will sound on there.

Should be a good build log, front stage looks like it will be awesome

I would go with the MB Quart 4125, never hurts to have more power for front stage.

Port Height x Port Width = In^2 of port area Port Height x Port Width x Port Length = Ft^3 or port volume The Length of the port determines the tuning frequency.

Getting an amp free and being able to fix it is ........ Priceless! I just got a Kicker ZR360 from a friend, never seen this amp in my life before (it doesnt power up or go into protect so Im gonna see what I can do with it).

Most subwoofer terminals only accept 1 run of 8 gauge so typically you have to either trim it down or use smaller wire Thats exactly why I said 8 gauge is overkill

Basically yeah that is how it is reading your order

Make sure you add around an inch to each of your measurements for some slack room just in case, never want to be short a foot or so.

It depends on the pre-out voltage of your headunit, if it is too high and whether or not it is clean or dirty power.

Going to check it out now, keep up the good work

Yeah you should be able to get a 15" subwoofer in there, make sure you get the Dual 2 ohm option on the BL so you can wire the sub to a 1 ohm final load:

Get the amp that fits in your budget, goals and power requirements. You wont notice the difference in 200 watts so dont worry about that at all. Depending on what sub and voice coils you get, will help us determine what amp will be good for you.

10-14 gauge will be fine for subwoofers but you can do as big as 8 gauge if you want to but that is overkill (comes down to personal preference or whats available).

Beef up the Icons, even though they dont need it. I know whatever you guys will do it will be epic.

No problem with underpowering a subwoofer so you will be fine.

Naw you cant put another midbass speaker on a passive crossover unless there specs are similar but they may be hard to find.

Honestly I dont even remember, I seen it on here one day it is stored on my desktop in one of my many files for car audio.