jcarter1885

and nice set of plans you have there.

What enclosure is it in?

That is what Im talking about, loud ass hell . Im really digging the highs, got me thinking.

Well keep us posted and appreciate the information because everyone wants there own personal meter but dont want to buy the Term-lab. Hell I use my Epic-160 for now just to see if certain things I did somehow affected the score (I know it is not accurate). If they are legit then I wouldnt mind taking the plunge on one myself and by then hopefully someone will have tested it next to a term lab to see it's accuracy.

x2, why do you feel you will need the JL Audio speakers in the rear (just curious as I will be running horns and image dynamic speakers upfront)?

The options you need will come down to your goals and whats best for your application, so giving us more information will help us help you if you cant tell after reading up on the options.

KnuKonceptz.com always sends it right away and it gets to you even faster

You could of just put this in your current post you have about subs, please provide more information and dont make ridiculous topics. There is no such thing as underpowering a sub so it doesnt matter the power as long as your not trying to double or triple the rms.

Doesnt really matter since you can run 1/0AWG in almost any amp nowadays with some trimming of the strands or just use a reducer.

A budget would help greatly.

I dont think Jacob is doing a pre-order for these since they have different options so you can customize your own, Im not sure but IIRC.

Nice list of equipment you have there

It is hard to tell why your amp is doing that with the information you gave us, what electrical upgrades do you have? Are you sure your wired at the ohm load the amp likes and not below its final ohm load? 3/4 of a gain setting is not a good way to set your gains, could be clipping your amp that is why it is blinking. Set your gains right and I wouldnt say it is safe to play something that has a protection light showing you it is going in and out of protect. you never adjust your gains on your amp when you want to show out, you usually want to have your settings on your headunit turned down from when you set it correctly and then boost those settings when you want to show off. That way those are your max settings before you damage anything. On the skipping issue make sure it is mounted correctly and not loose so it would cause the headunit to move around.

Oh alright I thought it would have to be really close to the speakers. Well thanks for the help guys. Some people even mount them in the back where the amps are, it is really up to you so get a little creative

Water is gonna tear apart that electrical tape, I would try to fix the weatherstripping in the doors if it is that bad or make the drainage holes bigger to drain more water. Just a few tips

This should be awesome, cant wait to see the end result and good luck on reaching your goal.

x2, I get a good amount of water in my doors and never hurt any speakers I have had (they get a good amount of rust on them but that is about it (never affected its performance).

Yes the output would be noticeable, otherwise there wouldnt have been 12"s, 15"s or 18"s (just one standard sub size) but is the noticeable that big of a deal is the real question. You might miss out on some output but it will come down to a compromise. Worrying about output and not competing makes no sense especially when your running a Nightshade, its gonna be loud regardless whichever one you get.

Prices seem to went down in my book, so still a good deal

The reason why people did whatever things you see in a wall are for a reason: the foam around is to help seal it off, the fabric is there before you spray to stop the foam from damaging your interior, all the extra wood and metal bracing is exactly what it is bracing. What else is there you need to know, it is kinda simle to me just a lot of work.

The Sundown does not come with a bass knob (shouldnt use bass boost anyway), the knob is a gain knob.

Size of the subs has nothing to do with which one can hit the lows better, that is all box dependent. If the L7 you heard didnt get down low then it was not in a box built with that goal in mind. Your going about this ass backwards, please provide as much information as you can and less subs to compare from (that will be another step).