jcarter1885

When it comes to car audio AH doenst mean anything when comparing batteries, give this a read: XS Power Batteries for my application - SSA Car Audio Forum Post #13

Its all install dependent, it probably would but it also depends on what size woofers you have now like posted above. Give more informatuion than that, sometimes car audio is about more about testing to find out information like this.

Another great looking enclosure

Only whats listed is for sale, plus there arent to many subs out right now with Jacob still in the testing phases on most of them. There are some subs on presale right now also.

thats awsome Im jealous because of all the sports I played growing up I never got a trophy that big and most of my trophies are for first place. Good way to keep it all in the family, at least you know when she gets older and a real car she will be helping with the install and not watching.

Either amp will, depends which one is in your budget. What is your budget? If you have to ask what wattage it can handle then stick with the 1500 rms that is recommended, wattage is usually determined by the box size as well (smaller boxes allow the driver to take more power and vice versa for bigger boxes).

What is your budget and what is your final ohm load for your speakers?

This should be stickied, I used to think like that and being on this forum has opened my eyes up to a lot of things. When it comes to picking drivers I have to actually do some homework on them and there T/S Paramaters instead of just looking at price and if its rms is the same as my amplifier (how I used to be a year ago). I appreciate all the info and time your are putting aside to answer my questions. OP(Brandon) I do apologize for getting your thread off topic.

Nice way to sum it up in 1 answer, exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks again Brian .

Good question, hopefully soon they will update their website and technical page to display that information so people like you will have it handy. Mods also, move this to FI Section. *If you dont get an answer quick enough, also send this forum member a Personal Message (PM): http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/BKOLFO4-m1530.html

Installing it near the amp partially defeats the purpose. Ideally the higher signal voltage increases the signal to noise ratio of the signal transfer. The noise being induced into your system is independent of the voltage of the signal. It will stay the same regardless. So as you increase the voltage of the signal the level of the noise will be smaller in proportion to the signal, which increases the signal to noise ratio. If you place it near the amp, then the signal traveling the farthest (and typically noisiest) distance is the "original" voltage level from your headunit, and you aren't increasing the signal voltage until after the noise has already entered the signal (which means the voltage level of the noise will also be increased since it's now part of the signal at this point). The RF-BLD also features balanced differential outputs which aids in noise reduction. Again, if you are using this feature then having the unit placed near the amp would defeat the purpose. You would want this placed on the source side of the signal transfer so that any noise induced during the signal transfer is able to be handled by the balanced system. If you put the system in the trunk, then the signal entering the unit already has the noise included with the signal. Putting the unit in the trunk would be a little like putting a condom on after you've had sex. That said.....why do you think you need one? greatest analogy ever

It is a true and false statement at the same time. A lot of people use secondary batteries with there systems without it affecting there alternators. It will come down to listening habits and how hard you discharge the batteries and so on, if you slam hard all day long then yes it is true and investing in a battery charger would be feasible to take some strain off your alternator. A second battery will be useful whether car is on or off if you need the power, power makes power (no way around that).

Not a problem I appreciate your response and the way you handle it. So to get this clear if you want the best port area for you subwoofer then plug your figures into the formula and use what you get, right? The only time the general rule of thumb (in^2/cube) can be used is for: not enough space in an install/enclosure to give the driver its recommended port area due to driver specs, if you dont want to take some time to do some math or just to make a quick box? One last question, when people do drop in's with two different drivers and say one out performed the other then it is not a fair test since the box is not built to the specs of each driver unless that is the box you are using in your install? Thanks for the input and I dont mind learning, that is why I ask question or make the comments I do to spin the wheel in people's minds.

, good one chop

That is going to come down to mounting locations, budget, power, active or passive and so on. Give us more information to help you find out what would work in your application to meet your goals.

Are you planning on walling off the Maxima to fit those BTL's in there?

You will thank yourself in the future since you were considering a SUV IIRMC, any changes to the equipment or just the enclosure?

I likey

Not a problem as I really dont know, a couple of more knowledgeable individuals will give us a better answer.

I doubt it will take a shit on you unless it is user error, like most amps that fail usually fail to user error. Plus Jacob has one of the best customer service around if an event where you amp did take a shit on you. What will this amp be powering, hopefully you will have a build log with pictures and good luck with the install.

I never knew there was a difference to be honest with you, I know most use MDF for there enclosures. In this article it gives why one is used over the other, so give it read while I let someone chime in who knows about wood types: DSM - Melamine - Applications - MDF "HDF is generally used in the flooring industry, and contains more resin and fiber per cubic meter than MDF"

I see where you are coming from, not arguing I just look at things differently. I look at the company itself and its ethics/morals (such as not dicking the customer just to get money) as me choosing to buy there products then were its made but to each its own. But nevertheless you should be pleased with there performance and reliability, have you asked Jacob if he ever plans on having handmade USA amps?

Where its made has little to do with how it will perform, the components and quality of parts that the manufacturer chooses to use will help determine that. Regardless where something is made, if you use cheap crap to make it then you get cheap crap in return (that simple).

I was the one who did the calculations that it is 29in^2 per port area, just to see its relationship compared to the "general rule of thumb" which we were supposed to go by. I feel as though companies like Fi shouldnt put that on there website (even if it is a starting point) then others get bashed for something they thought was right from start including me (that is misleading the consumer). Instead for each driver put how much port area is required and stop steering the consumer in the wrong place. Id rather they give the formula so I can do the math then be bashed for information I thought was to be followed since the MANUFACTURER said to follow it. It is to many he say or she say rules in car audio and healthy debates like these help weave out all the bs. I appreciate Duran for passing the formula on and will be using from here on it then the in^2/cube rule we see on a daily basis.