jcarter1885

The biggest wiring size for the SAE-1200D is 1/0AWG I believe, 4 gauge will be adequate in your install unless you plan on upgrading and running at 1 ohm anytime in the future. If you buy the bigger wire now wont have to worry about it later.

Good question but I dont see the need for it since your not pulling that many amps from the start.

Really no reason to have it overnighted, it only took about 2 days at the most for the sub to get to me from when I ordered it. The biggest enclosure the Z15 can be put in is 4 ft^3 and 28hz is the lowest Jacob recommended tuning for these puppies.

When are the other sizes going to be available and pictures, specs and so on going to be posted. I know your a busy man just thought I would ask since Im curious and want to do a build with two of the 12"s.

x2, that is the dimensions of my current box for one 15".

Doesnt say he will run 1000watts, he said that is the highest he wants to go PERIOD!!! So offering a 1500 watt amp is ridiculous and then telling him to spend the money on electrical upgrades which he says he doenst want to do. So do something smart and offer him something that will require no electrical upgrades besides the Big 3 (maybe) . There is a reason why we ask people to give us the most information available so we can help them make a decision on what fits there goals and applications. We dont ask for the information to completely ignore it and tell them that is not what they need.

I guess you didnt read anything he said, he would like to keep it under 1000 watts. Does that $1200 budget apply to subs, amp, box, wiring or just subs and amps? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/SSA-Dcon-10D4-%282%29-%252b-Sundown-Audio-SAX%252d125.2-Combo.html

A pillars complete and Spring Break, what are your plans?

Yeah you didnt know, them and roller skates (the all black kind only).

Sexy little beast you have in your hands there, cant wait for the build log

I dont think there is that much of a difference if your not competing, plus it just makes it easier if you dont have enough room for a slot port. Not worth the extra money in my opinion.

I never heard of RF's being reconed. I pushed my RF passed there limits and killed two of them so Im not aware of the plastic cones breaking, along with my Pioneer's and Kicker CVX's.

Yeah you could sell them for a good price and get a fair amount of your money back. If your worried about leaks then get some speaker tape foam/gasket for an airtight seal.

What is wrong with having four screw holes, what does that determine? That amp is only 1200 watts, its not like it is a 3000 watt amp. Watch your gains and volume know and you will be fine, the speakers are 500 rms anyway. I liked the P3's and its your money spend it how you choose to, I would buy them and enjoy them (if you need an upgrade in the future then sell the P3's and use the money towards the upgrade).

, hopefully something is on sale that I want to buy. Your still gonna get a few more purchases from me this spring season also (SA-12's and SAX-100.4).

I would get what fits my budget and install application, I used the subs before and liked them. Sometimes these choices you have to make on your own, there is a reason you brought them to our attention over anything else you planned on buying. Either buy these if you think they are a steal or just wait until you can get the SSD's or BL's which most of us on here will tell you to get. But it is your money and your system so make a decision do you want to wait and save up more or get what you can now for a great price. Just my .02

The woofer has nothing to do with your vehicles resonant frequency, that will take lots of testing with a simple sealed box playing lots of tones to find out where your vehicle peaks at. Check under the SPL thread for topics on this issue, many have been made already. To find out what woofer will perform better at a certain frequency will take you buying both of them and lots of testing, nobody can tell you that.

^^^^Why?

12 will work fine, 8 is overkill on subwoofers in my opinion (to some competitors they may say 8 is better if your chasing tenths on the meter).

That amp wont over power your sub at all (may harm it if you clip the signal by making the amp go further than its limits), since there is no such thing as underpowering a sub I doubt it will do that. I dont know anything about the amp and havent dealt with it. What is your budget on an amp and what voice coil did you get your sub in?

The one in its optimal/recommended box will play the lows with more authority, if the 15" is in its ideal enclosure it should probably play the lows better since the cone area will give it that extra output. So that should answer your question.

I have heard about running a wire from the alternator to 2nd battery from a local shop when I was thinking about running a second battery but I dont think you have to. Most people just run more 1/0 awg wires from the stock battery to the 2nd battery for positive runs but with the amount of power you have it is not necessary. You dont have to ground your batteries together if they are not close to each other, you can ground the second one to the frame also. If your second battery is in the back then I would just ground my amps to the second battery but that doesnt really matter neither. You can use the battery as a distribution block that doesnt matter, its personal preference (it will just require less fuses and less wiring and connectors on battery).

I want active because of passengers but i want the best soundstage for passive (for myself) in my budget ! Pick one or the other, read up on both and choose which one you want. Active will take more work and you probably wont get it right the first time but if you have a lot of time on your hands and patience to get it right then active is the way to go.

Wire it just like the picture and you will be straight.