jcarter1885

Or lots of tuning, tweaking and moving box around if you can (it may be a sign to build a new box too or do some modifying).

To me that just explains there quality right there, a new amp already faulty and not location in my opinion.

I would say subs up and port up/rear firing, 5-10 ft^3 per sub with 12-16in^2/per cube of port area.

Why not the Sundown SAZ-2000d, on the proper electrical it can put out more than rated power. Get the Sundown FTW.

Speaker wire size is a preference for interior speakers (12-16 gague is acceptable) for subwoofers (8-12 gauge would do). Run speaker wire from speaker to crossovers(if any) then to amp.

Its locked because is was stupid and pointless just like this topic is (so it will probably get locked soon also).

Glad you could join us, but did you read the noob posting guidelines (can we get some more information from you).

Well I would rather have a 15" in its optimal box than an 18" in its smallest enclosure but if he wants to force an 18" in there then go ahead. On another note, I know there is nothing wrong with underpowering a sub but with that power I would put a BL on there instead of a BTL, just my .02.

Displacement for each sub is 0.22ft^3

I love watching DC subs in action, got some excellent flex man.

I personally would go with one 15" BTL, your still gonna need to account for amps, batteries and airflow around the box (put that 15" in the biggest box they recommend and hell be happy).

Personally it doesnt matter how you do it (pictures while your installing or when your done), a build log would be nice. Great way for feedback, suggestions and tips for you or others.

I would love to sit in that living room and listen to this setup, good job.

This is a useless topic, nobody knows who will sound better (too many install factors). Number one your gonna need to upgrade your electrical if you want to avoid dimming and get the most out of your amp and subwoofer. A sub will sound like a sub should sound, regardless if its underpowered (just wont be reaching its limits but it will still put out bass and a good amount of it).

Please read the post for noob guidelines and then repost with all the required information so we can help you, its not that hard.

Wow is all I can say about that rear speaker situation, not all shops are bad. I found one here locally where me the owner and employee sit down and have long talks. Everything I want to do, they have good advice on or bad advice on and its logical(they dont try to sell me anything just know that we are helping each other). But yeah most shops only want comission.

What are you goals for these amps, what will you be using them for? What are you looking for about these amps?

Yeah, the only way to know for sure is put it in and watch your voltage (if it drops drastically then you know you need an upgrade if not your cool).

Good luck man, what all equipment do you have for this build log.

I told you that your goal would be reached by the end of the weekend, anymore goals now since you reached your previous mark. Good luck man and keep us posted.

Well good luck and dont forget to make a build log with pictures.

I personally wouldnt use those subs for competition because they lack that punch(from personal experience I had two of them in a previous install, they hit the lows like no other just have a low motor force). But if you already have them and if you feel a wall is the best for you then go with it, but you can do more with: less subs, less box, less weight and around the same amount of power.

You should of went up their to get your strippers instead of waiting on them(your fault) and went off on them for a horrible install.

x2, dont wall the hatchback man (we had a topic on walling a crx and its just useless, you will get louder without the wall).

Number one what amplifier will be running this, you may reach your goal but its to many factors to tell you if you reach 135db or not (depending how good the box is built and good of an installer you are). Not having enough power for a sub is not a problem, their is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer (the only way you will clip the amp is not setting your gains correctly, use a DMM). The DC Level 3 comes in D2 and D4 voice coil configurations. Next time you post about a sub make sure you give us information on the actual sub itself, is it a 10", 12" or 15" and what voice coil configuration?