jcarter1885

Glad you could join us.

I dont mind working around people, sometimes you may need there help and other times it makes time fly by faster to talk to someone while the slow process is going on.

Good come up, thats why I like having a trade or hobby because you and someone else can benefit each other with exchaning money (dont you luv the barter system).

I know it feels good to have your own spot to do what ya want, well glad you could come back.

thanks foe the replies guys. But help me out on which one I should pick up! It doesnt matter which one that you will buy they will both give you a 1000watts at 1 ohm and more, whats your budget and goals. I would get whats in your budget, if you can afford to get the SAZ-1000D for more stability and power at lower voltages then go for that or buy the SAE-1000D and use that extra money for electrical upgrades and a voltmeter. Both will do exactly what you need just choose which would be better on your wallet or whatever your preference is when you buy car equioment (I would personally buy the SAZ-1000D since it is the top of the line and more stable when voltage drops.) Just my .02.

People like him and Pound that Sound make me not even want to continue building boxes but it shows with hard work what could be possible in many years to come.

I have a mobile es amp I'm trying to sell, but I have no idea what to ask for it. How much did you pay for your amp? Do you know a good resource for a good price? Whats the model of the amp you have? Pictures of lies.

Go buy a voltmeter and place it on your dash or up front with you so you can always see what your voltage is. I would do the Big 3, buy a voltmeter/intall it and then install your amp and see how your voltage holds up and then address your needs then.

From amp to speaker can be 8 gauge or less, I run 13awg from all three of my subs to an 8 gauge connector and on the other end 8 gauge wire going to the amp.

I currently run mines through a hole in the box that I sealed and patched up with silicone and never had a problem or pressure leaving out the hole or around the area either, so it worked perfect for me.

I was thinking about doing the bolts on my next enclosure and just curious to see if anyone will test it to see if adds resistance (how would one test to see if it adds resistance). I think someone should build a box with a hole for the wire to run through and test it / some bolts on the same box and hook up the same speaker wire and see if resistance takes place. If it is not readable then does that mean their was an addition in the resistance since it wasnt detectable?

Just get a tape measurer or some wiring you have laying around and see how much you need it shouldnt be that hard (measure positive terminal of battery to alternator positive terminal-wire #1, measure from alternator negative terminal to cars frame-wire #2, measure from battery negative terminal to cars frame-wire #3).

Either one is the better choice since they both do 1000w @ 1ohm and more, if you dont plan on upgrading your electrical to keep the voltage up then get the SAZ-1000D but if your electrical is good and your voltage is high and stable then the SAE-1000D will do fine. Just get whats cheaper and put that extra money in upgrading your electrical.

Im planning on running two pairs also so when yours is compete Ill be starting on me so keep us updated.

x2, I didnt even think about that last when talking to him. Since you want to wow people and you wanted 2-BTL's from jump, then throw 2-12" BTL's in there and try not to tear your car apart with them. Good Luck making this decision Im choosing subs myself now and just between two different setups like you.

You mean ported at 32hz and Alpine recommends anywhere from 1-2ft^3 per sub. If your not competing then get an AQ2200D since the subs can handle 1000rms and that will power them properly, get the Sundown SAZ-2000D FTW!

Well if you wanna waste your money just cause you want something that looks cool then you minus well not even buy an amp or even get a box for it, matter of fact just buy two 18"s and throw them in the trunk and ride with your trunk open so everybody can see that you have 2-18"s. Your system is for you to enjoy, I would rather have my system sounding good then looking cool for others. Just get a 15" that you can fit in there properly with the right box size and it will look cool when you open the trunk and your 15'' is beating down like an 18". Just my .02.

Contacting Jacob or db-r.com is the first thing you should do if a brand new amp is not working.

Glad you could figure it out, good luck man.

Regardless of what your gonna tune your box too your gonna need some more port area so focus on increasing port area.

So your saying it will be a greay buy, I already know anything Sundown is worth the money and wouldnt mind having an All Sundown Trunk (3 Amps and 2 Subs).

1.75-3 ft^3 after displacements (sub, port area and bracing) per sub will suit your needs perfectly. What amp(s) will power these subs?

At least somebody feels my pain, I had this same problem for almost a year deciding on my current setup. But Im stuck on these two now since they will require not everly big boxes to get great output, they hit the lows and can almost get them for the same price (the subs on steroids will be a little bit more but maybe worth it).

If your box is 2.5 ft^3 (for example), 12-16 in^2 of port area per cube is just simple math. 12 x 2.5 = 30 16 x 2.5 = 40 So you should stick with 30-40 in^2 of port area if your box is 2.5 ft^3 after displacement (subs, port area and bracing if any).

Ok thats what I was thinking he was referring too and thats what I been looking at. Thanks.