jcarter1885

nice install so far where are the vids

you wont get the power their stating but at Sundown audio you would plus some.

just charge it to the game, you live and you learn. plus car audio is about spending money to get better so go buy the amp again and enjoy it to its full worth. I would get it fixed at db-r.com, you wont get a better quality amp at $100 and just dont make a mistake like that again. dont let this sway you away from sundown, take advantage of the july sale if you dont feel comfortable with it getting fixed (still wont get a good quality amp like that @ the sale price).

The box will be between 4.6-5 ft^3 @ 30-33 hz, it will include 2-12" subwoofers (subs up, port in front) powered by a Sundown Saz-2000d. Big Three already done, battery upgrades coming soon and it will be going in the trunk of a Saturn Ion-2003. Which subs should I choose, price is not an option but listed in least expensive on up(if you suggest a sub thats not on the list thats fine, all input is greatly appreciated): SSA Icon $275.00 Sound Splinter RL-P $295.00 Incriminator Audio Death Row $319.00

why is that you can only get to around 31-33Hz with certain volumes. the only way I can make the tuning get lower is to narrow the port in^2 to lower than what the manufactures say to make them between, which you guys say isnt healty. I downloaded your box tuning calculator and it works wonders.

great numbers for a single sub and all that power, keep it up man.

Fresh paint job, clean on the inside clean on the outside. keep the build going.

The max space I have available is what my first box was @ 35"W x 14.5"H x 27"D (outside dimensions), anything that size or smaller @ 30Hz would be perfect (could you help me create a box for two 12" subwoofers. thanks man and enjoy the 4th

Well how does my new box design sound for 2-12''s and if you can improve or help me with the design, I would appreciate at. Im already planning on selling the subs so I need to configure a new box while doing it.

I do have a quick question, why do most companies reccommend that much port area, the box that I have sounds lovely and has no port noise; whats the advantages of this conception? Well I do appreciate ya and the info, since I have created a new box design for 2-12" using 3/4" mdf. (Outside) 33"W x 14"H x 27"D = 7.21875 ft^3 (Inside) 31.5"W x 12.5"H x 25.5"D = 5.8106 ft^3 after port and subs around 4.8- 4.9 ft^3 @ 30Hz (Port) 5.25"W x 12.5"H x 24.51"L (W x H= 65.63in^2) Isn't the port to long for the box, their is only 1" of room between the port walls and the back wall of the enclosure? Any advice or desings would help, I want both twelves on top of box and port on in the front in middle or in the front on one of the sides if their is a better design.

Dont buy soundstorm amps, look at Sundown Audio Amps and what vehicle will this system be installed in. we need more details to help you out

So if you had your bass boost setting on your amp at the lowest setting it can go, if you turn the knob on the bass boost knob it will still throw bass boost at your subs to the amps highest bass boost setting. even though i wont use it just curious to see how it works.

^^X2 or Soundsplinter RL-p 15" D2 version

For my subs I used Rockford Fosgate 13AWG twisted speaker wire and attached all three wires coming out of the box to an 8 gauge connectore with 8 gauge wire leavng the connector to amps speaker terminals. its probably gonna be complicated to get those 8 gauge wires in there and you dont want to risk them slipping out for your subs safety or to keep you from taking you speakers out the box to put them back in when they do fall out. just my .02

How could you use the bass boost knob with the gain turned off, what will it do? Even though I dont recommend using it period.

Well dont continue to be a follower and become a trendsetter and get you a 1 ohm stable amp with a dual 2 ohm subwoofer and bang on, or get a kicker amp as stated above if you do want to run @ 2 ohms. 2 ohm stable amps: Clarion or Kicker 1 ohm stable amps: Sundown

It sounds like whatever side the noise is coming from it may be something wrong with that speaker wire, check to make sure its not pinched or a bad speaker wire from the amp to whatever speaker its hooked up to.

well thats why you cover it up when your done, I guess I should of stated that also.

Personally kickers do sound good from around 60-85% of recommended power and after that they lose their sound quality that they have, the subs on these forums never use sound quality with the right amount of power or maybe a little more as some people also tend to do. If you want Kicker go for it but at least check the subs on this forums shop and under forum manufacturers and you will find better subs with better quality and customer service. I cant wait to upgrade my Kicker CVX's, I bought them before joining this site and have been trying to sell them everyday since I have been on here. Now if you plan to build a box that big you cant throw a lot of power on these subs and Kicker does lower their rms rating for subs in a ported box so you have to factor this into the equation. I would build a box to their recommended settings and if you go bigger just do try to power them with 4,000 rms amp.

I would say just save up another $40 and get her an Incriminator Audio 187 12" D4 and you will never have to worry about replacing the sub again. check it out: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/12%22-187-Series.html

cant wait till my sundown gets here, to put it to the test. good review

well keep us posted with the results

If you know that it will be a for sure upgrade next year or so, go ahead and get the Sundown Saz-2000d since you want to run it at 2 ohms. The Clarion seems to be a good amp, whatever one is cheaper you cant go wrong with.

why 2 ohms if i may ask, the sundown saz-1500 wont be push those subs how you want them to but it will do some justice.

Ive had this problem before, check your remote wires' connection at the radio to the amps, and the wire between that for damage. If thats not the problem then split the remote wires before daisy chaining them, maybe the amps dont like to be wired like that. As you can tell when you switched them from last year the sound switched from what speakers it came from, and if it is not the remote turn on wire itself then its the amps; some amps just have a loud delay turn off from some reason.