jcarter1885

How much will the subs break my wallet for and do you think 6.416ft^3 @ 30Hz with a Sundown SAZ-2000 would be a good combination for your subwoofers?

good video, got me interested in switching my cvx's out for these

I have a stock 90 amp alternator, and battery with 2 Deka 9A31's in the spare tire well running an SAZ-3000D and an SAX-100.4 with NO issues at all Could you possibly take a picture and show me how you have your batteries mounted because Im looking for ideas and the only places I came up with is the spare tire well (spare tire gone) but then I was wondering how I would chare them being that my box is on top of the batteries. The other spot is beside the box above the rear tires in the corner by the trunk opening. Should I keep my stock battery and get one or two deka 31's; get rid of stock battery and replace it with a deka 9a34 and get just one deka 9a31, appreciate it Duran?

I knew the end of June was to good to be true, not complaining at all; they say you have to wait long periods of time before great things come (patience is key my friend). Jacob Im gettting confused on all the batteries gimmicks and wattage claims, I know every install has its variables and after researching for batteries so I will be able to power my setup(close to 3000 Rms, stock 105A alternator for now, Big Three done in 1/0 gauge) I have not went anywhere but in a circle. What do you go by when trying to decide on a car battery for car audio (CCA, CA, AH, Reserve Capacity or just the biggest battery that you can get)? Considering I will be using my system for daily driving and continuos playing at high levels only on the highway or open road where I cant be a disturbance to others. I know CCA, CA dont play a role in car audio applications but from my understanding AH and Reserve Capacity do; if my alternator wont quit on me or I wont be playing my music with my car off alot how will they come in handy for me? Im looking at a lot of options for now and want honesty (price is not an issue but I dont want to break the wallet because of biased opionions). I know XS Power is like the Ferarri or Bentley of batteries but I dont have to have them if there are equally performance products that are comparable. Option 1- Shuriken BT-80 & Shuriken BT-120 Option 2- XS Power D2400 & XS Power D3100 Option 3- Stock Battery & Deka Intimidators 9A31 (2 of them) Option 4- Deka Intimidator 9A31 & 9A34 Option 5- Stock & Kinetik HC3800 Option 6- Xstatic Batcap 2000s (2 of them) Option 7- Stock Battery & Batcap 4000 Please rate these options from best to worst (honesty please everybody and opinions are welcomed), thankx.

My Battery is in the trunk also, the process is the same, its just some parts may need shorter or longer wire since your battery's in the trunk. #1 Change the ground wire leaving your battery's negative terminal to your cars frame with a 1/0 gauge wire. #2 In my car I have 4 gauge wire going from my battery's positive terminal to alternator's postive terminal and left minds alone(since it would of been close to 15-20 feet of new wire I needed to buy, maybe Ill upgrade later) but if you want you can change that wire also with 1/0 gauge wire. #3 Find your alternator under the hood and locate the ground wire leaving the alternator's ground terminal or bolt to the frame or engine block and upgrade it with 1/0 gauge wire.

considering the performance of your batcap 2000, would you keep it or upgrade to something else(what would you upgrade to)?

I was in the same boat with you on trying to decide on what battery to run, two bat caps put out 50AH, 2000 CCA for $300. Lately I been thinking of getting two XS Power Batteries D2400 & D3100 for my system but today I spoke to a friend in Chicago who owns his own sound shop and stop selling Optima Batteries because price has been going up while quality is going done. Then he thought of Kinetik Batteries but wanted a battery with a less price tag for his customers so he told me about Shuriken Batteries which I been seing in local stereo shops here in Dallas, Fort Worth area. Basically their the same as Kinetik but cheaper, so I checked them out today and they just entered the car audio industry around 2007-2008 and where at CES 2009. Their only sold at a few places now sonicelectronix.com and a couple smaller companies on the internet, but fairly priced. Now Im looking at their BT-80 or BT-100(Starting) & BT-120(System), www.shurikenonline.com http://www.shurikenonline.com/brochure.pdf (2009 Brochure) Check them out, the BT-120 does 2600 CCA & 120 Ah for $270-300.

The negative battery terminal. EDIT: I guess I should add that if your battery is in the trunk like mine the negative terminal is preferred. Ground it to the frame. So instead of my amps being ground to the metal block with a bolt and washer which attaches the back seat to the cars' frame, I should run a little longer ground wire (almost 1-2 feet more) to where my battery's negative post since my battery is in the trunk also. I thought longer ground wire may have more resistence but i may be wrong.

yeah i know that and appreciate your info, thats what Im upgrading my wires with Kicker 1/0 gauge. that still does not answer the questions i posted

Question #3: Where the 10 gauge and 4 gauge wire are grounded to the engine frame, they are seperated from the engine block with a flange nut like the question above: can I leave that nut their or should I take it off and have the terminals touching the frame itself?

I have a 2003 Saturn Ion with a 2.2L Ecotech Engine with a stock 105A alternator, im trying to upgrade my big three but im running into obstacles so im coming here for some creative input. Yesterday I pulled the box out my trunk and finally took the spare out since its pointless in being under there and got to my starting battery (located in trunk where Saturn puts them). I completed the Big 1 so far using Kicker 1/0 Gauge ground wire and my voltage is outstanding so far when I idle I dont stay 14.0v to 14.1v (use to be 13.7v to 13.8v) when I crank my car im at 14.3v to 14.4v (use to be 14.0v to 14.1v in this Texas Summer Heat we been in the 100's last few days) and when music playing while on highway I sit at 13.8v to 14.0v depending on how much my air is blowing (use to be anywhere between 13.5v to 13.7v). I started looking under my hood to start on the ground for my alternator and its to tight of a fit for me to mess with so im going to take it to a shop so they can do it for me, then I noticed that I cant seem to find a ground wire leaving the alternator to engine block or frame of car maybe its on the rear side of alternator where I can see or get to with moving stuff around. So I found a shop who will assist me in grounding my alternator and one dude up there ask me why am I trying to do this since alternators are already mounted on engine blocks, then ask him if they will do it and how much then he points to the main dude who says yeah he will do it and understood why I wanted to do this. Ok... I just look a little harder and couldnt find a ground wire but there is an object that the ground wire that has a 10 wire going to it coming from under the engine block and it disappears not sure where its coming from and a 10 gauge wire to the engine block with a 4 gauge wire leaving the engine block to the frame. Question #1: What wire should I upgrade: just the 4 gauge itself to a kicker 1/0 gauge ground wire or find where the 10 gauge is going to and if its coming from the alternator ugrade that ground also. If I have to just upgrade the 4 gauge wire to 1/0 gauge I can do that myself. Question #2: The 4 gauge has a flange nut on top of the terminal ring with a flange nut under the terminal ring tighten to the frame and no paint is scatched off. I know I should scratch the paint off but wondering if I should keep the flange nut between the terminal ring and frame as Saturn grounded it or should take it away and just have the terminal ring touching the frame itself?

Yeah I found that page, I'm thinking it's 40 x 4 RMS, but somewhere else on the page it says 60 x 4, so I'll just have to try it and see, but all I know is it's probably much better than the built in amp in my Vr3 headunit (crap, I know, but it was free). yeah the manual and what the comany wrote for the specs on the amp were 60rms x 4 @ 4 ohms but after someone bench tested it they only got 40rms x 4 @ 4 ohm as the actual output power

I would go with the second one(JVC) because Im thinking of getting one, but it has the highest preamp voltage and its the best quality. just my .02

audioque 1200d

i would of told him his system was real cute, keep up the good work on killing your subs for showing off

^^^^X2 or BL: Audioque 1200D or Kicker ZX1500.1 BTl: Audioque 2200D or Audioque 3500D (watch the gains) or Kicker ZX2500.1

i talked to mechman and he said making a alternator thats high output the same size as the stock one will eventually fail on me, im sorry but i take his word for it. why would he tell me not to get one or he wont even make me one if it wont help, im pretty sure he wouldnt turn my money down. i am going to get a xs power d2400(primary-stock) and d3100(secondary) and by a charger so i can charge them every few days or so; enabling me to help my charging system. I asked mechman would this be ok and he said yeah, we talked for almost 30 minutes trust me i went every route and found the advantages and disadvantages of having a high output alternator. If I felt like I really need one beside what he said to me I would pay $500 for a ho alternator but i feel safe after my conversation yesterday.

i talked to mechman yesterday and they say that they dont make a high outout alternator for my car because its to tight of a fit for the regular alternator so making a bigger or custom one really isnt possible. so im just gonna run with a xs power d2400 and d3100

would like to get an answer to this so i can have further understanding

i say go for it man, looking at all that space just made me jealous. what i would do to have all that room?

thats how i roll

bump

Just the stock one and its not going below 12 even when im playing at idle. what upgrades do you plan on doing to your truck or are you gonna keep it as is, how did you like the performance of the batcap 2000

did you have a volt reader with you today when you were making videos, if so how was your voltage. that flex was incredible, looks like that xstatic is doing its job

QUestion #1-so correct me if im wrong and i know you guys will. my saturn ion has a 105 amp alternator and my system will be drawing somewhere close to 300Amps, so that totals up to around 405Amps. These are the three options of thinking of but correct me if im wrong (which is the best?): Option #1- Get two 200A alternators and a good starting battery. Option #2- Get the 200A alternator along with my 105A alternator thas in my car and a battery with 95(AH) or more to go with it. Option #3- Get a 200A alternator and two XS Power D2700(103 AH). Im just trying to make sure my electrical is sufficient and i understand the correct way to have enough electrical power to run my system without shotrtcuttin. Question #2- now here is where i get confused xs power says that D2400 will power a system with up to 4000watts if used as a secondary battery. So if i had a stock battery and a xspower d2400 i should be able to power my system with no upgrades to my stock battery or stock alternator. In acutuallity do you go by the watts of your system or do you add up the amp draw and try to even it with some beefy electrical? Is xsPower using this as a gimmick to purchase batteries? apprecaite the help and info