jcarter1885

They havent just some one offs for Sen.

You cant run the same sub at 4 ohms, 2 ohms and 1 ohm. Don't even remember what you have for a setup or electrical, thread is starting to get confusing and cluttered. Get a voltmeter and watch voltage, as nobody can tell you exactly how your car will hold up. Depending on voltage you will need to add a secondary battery in the rear or h/o alternator.

Not nowadays, price is the determining factory lately in this industry. Sad but true

I wouldn't suggest anything till I modeled the driver.

You dont pick your port area by cubic foot of volume of your enclosure. You model the driver to see what's bbest for the driver. This site helps too: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 Based on that site and your driver and tuning, it say around a minimum of 33 inches of port area is fine.

Yeah for spitting verses, mic check 1, 2...Usually the mics used for db measurement in car's is upwards of $300.

Depends on some factors: budget, mounting locations, sealed or ported power etc. Hard to just recommend drivers. Beyma, B&C, 18 Sound, Ciare, Faital Pro are a few brands I can think of.

Damn i remember when the comps where 500 bucks, haha at the 700 price tag. Neo aint no joke.

Id rather be prepared then assed out as you currently are. If you buy another xs battery or ever need to charge a battery then you wil have one. Why buy an XS Power battery knowing it needs to be charged? Why not get another brand of batteries? If your in audio then a battery charger is a no brainer but everyone dont think the same. If you cant justify it then dont buy it, it's your money to spend not ours.

Telling us your budget is small doesnt help us so give us numbers. We cant tell you what will fit if we dont have dimensions or know what vehicle its going in. The owner of that brand is a douche but the amp does what it needs to do, put out power to subwoofers so as long as it works 100% you shouldn't have any issues. Amp can push whatever subwoofer setup as long as it fits the power requirements and stable ohm loads of the amp. AGM battery up front and AGM battery in the rear plus H/O alternator will suffice when running that amp at 1ohm.

Tell them to properly charge it and if you dont trust them, then cough up the pennies and buy your own charger.

Your second box calculations does not account for port settings, so it isnt a finished design. Sub up and port back but if not competing then dont stress yourself about it.

Just speculation, i knew it was a reason :

Why paint the whole interior of the enclosure if its not gonna be seen? Looks good so far.

Whats the upside?

Thanks man, cant wait to demo that Mortal Kombat.

I would go with a recone from Fi.

If you're running a pair of components with the passive filters then a 2 channel amp will fit the bill. If plans of going active in the future than a 4 channel amp will suffice. What's your budget on an amplifier, any space requirements?

That's awesome. The XCON is a 10 and with the PR setup and tuning I'm not expecting it to be too high at all. For a minute he made it seem like it was tested with your equipment. Haha

The Term-lab Magnum is a nice piece of equipment, still trying to decide on a spl meter myself. Glad we have options now.

Dude no mid is gonna produce punchy midbass to keep up with 5k watts of bass, you think an 8" or 10" mid is going to keep up with four 18"s or a pair of 24" subs. C'mon man, just like your current 6.5s dont with an 18" subwoofer. As for now all this is speculation anyway, since you dont have the car or equipment. If you do go the horns route a ppi p900.4 bridged on the mids would work and a small 2 channel for horns would suffice, ppi p600.2 if you want matching gear.

SQ at lower volume is subjective, just say you want it to sound good at any level but have the output needed when I want to crank the knob. Install, mounting locations, processing will play more of a role in getting the desired sound at any level. A three way with horns would be pointless, doubt their is a tweet sensitive enough to use on the top end. Or a mid that wouldnt just mess things up running between the horn and midbass.