rickandleli

Alright, alright, enough teasing! So any kind of ETA on these so we can start shattering our own winshields and high scores?

This may be a dumb question but.......i saw on another thread about the 8" @150db talking about you running it on a 3500d @1 ohm and putting about 1500-1700 to it correct? But the 3500d is rated 3500 @1. Does it put out the 15-17 due to gain and volume turned down, or what? Also, i see people talking about running .5ohm daily, what kind of power does the 3500 put out there without clipping? what about 1 ohm @ 16v?

But a remote with a clipping indicator on your sub amps is always a nice addition. PUSH IT TO THE LIMIT!

Which would be louder and sound better ultimately? 8 icon 15s or 4 XCON 18s? I know the 15s have more cone area, but the 18S are more efficient, handle more power, and have more excursion. Would run 4 15s off of a 3500d or 2 of the 18s off the same amp.

I have always gotten a quick response from Brian Owens who is a authorized dealer for AA. You can email him a [email protected]

What ever happened with the ***** ***** subwoofer line? Is the idea scrapped, behind, or just lost in the nether-regions of car audio space?

So technically the safest way to do so would be with a second alternator dedicated to your subwoofer amps and using the VCM, and using your primary alternator for your mid/highs?

What is the best and easiest way to get get 16v to your amps in a daily driver? Do you need a seperate regulator for your alternator? What about the MLA Module, anyone ever used it and how well does it work?

I have just looked here and there on the net and talked to a couple companies (dont remember who) but said they can make an alternator that will fit and put out 250-300 amps but still will be regulated by ECU to factory preset levels.

Does anyone know where i can get a HO Alternator for a 99 dodge durango with 5.2 magnum engine? And what about bypassing the ECU Regulator in this Chrysler work of engineering genius?

People look for different things in their subs, so just trying to get opinions on what would be better for SQ (XCONS PROBABLY ), what would be the best in between, mainly daily driver, but weekend competitions, and what is almost purely SPL SUBS. Thought about the level 5s, but they stick out as almost purely SPL from what i have heard about them (burp rated at 20,000 watts). Only reason i didnt list the DD 9500 is my selfishness on not being able to find any pricing or any dealers around me. Although i did hear a single 12" DD in the hatch of of an Acura integra at a local show hit a 147 on the dash! Just looking to expand some horizons.

With all things being equal (6.5 cu ft tuned to 30 hz), with each sub running at its RMS rating, how would you guys rate these subs in these categories: SQ: Loudness: Durability: Overall quality: Subs are: Fi BTL, Ascendant audio Mayhem, SSA XCON, Sundown Nightshade, Audioque HDC3, or DC Audio Level 4

yeah kind of fishy. Why go with 2 2000ds instead of a 4500d? what's the advantage?

Is that with the truck in the build log with 2 18s on the 3000d? If so, how many cubes on each sub?

Not trying to say that they are SPL subs by any means. Just trying to get ideas on what these SQ subs can do in the lanes. I am in process of putting together my 2 18 XCONS on a sundown 3500d, about 6.5 cubes a piece and possibly making comp and daily interchangeable ports. Just trying to get an idea of what kind of numbers to expect.

We need some updates on some scores using these bad ass SSA Subs. What kind of numbers are being put up using the Xcons now that they have been out awhile? How are they holding up? Numbers on 12s, 15s, 18s would be nice. Lets go SSA guys!

There are so many choices when it comes to batteries. A lot of batteries have a high ah rate, but how about discharge rate. I have read a lot of people talking about DEKA batteries, but which models? Kinetik, Powermaster, Odyssey, Stinger, Xstatic? Which ones would you guys recommend for a sundown 3500d, used mainly for daily, but some competitions? I have a Mean Green alternator, not sure about actual amps on that though. Hard to find a good HO alternator for my 99 Durango.

Those low notes are put out by the excursion of the sub. A sealed box makes the pressure that the sub exerts force back onto itself, making it rebound faster and not allowing for that full excursion, unless you are using a very large sealed enclosure. ported lets the sub "breathe" so to speak and allows for more and deeper movement of the cone. (as far as my understanding goes)

Just trying to get an idea on what kind of screws are best for putting together a big box that is made of 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF stacked. (1 1/2). What about sealer? i know some people use liquid nails, but have heard other people say no way. just maybe some options on this critical piece of high pressure builds.

PM me if you want to upgrade the 18 XCON route. i might have a deal for you.

i have heard L7s in many size boxes and vehicles and everything factors in heavily. i have 2 in seperate small boxes (about 2.6 ft each) on a hifonics colossus and it is extremely mean. the word "LOUD" Is not easy to define here either. guess that depends on what you have, and what you have heard. my brother has hit a 159.7 in his walled suburban with 4 15L7s with me inside, so loud for me is on another level. go to some comps and get some ideas.

****** Oops, I am not allowed to sell anything until I actually add to the forum. I was stupid and forgot to follow the rules I agreed to when I joined. *****

Has anyone used Odyssey brand batteries in their setups, and if so, how do they compare to other brands as far as disharge and keeping voltage up?

Well, my whole deal was this.... I bought a dual 1 ohm sub with the intention of buying another one and getting a 1 ohm stable amp after sold the rest of my equipment, but the buyer backed out on the second half of my equipment so i was stuck with a dual 1 ohm sub (1750 RMS) and a 2 ohm stable amp (Hifonics Colossus 3200x1 @ 2 ohms). Was just trying to work with what i had but after someone posted about subs with lower resistance getting more power it made sense. I was just looking for the final resistance not taking into account the resistance of individual subs. Sorry guys but thanks for the input!