loondizie52

well i dont think that just a stock silverado alt is gonna be worth it. you would be better off getting one that is made for your truck, but is a high output. look on here, there a tons of ppl that make them. just call around for the best price. i would get a 200 amp probly. and then you should probly get 2 batts, one for front and one for back. look at www.remybattery.com for the deka intimidator G31's. theyre gonna be 187 a piece. i have a kinetik 2400 and i wish i would have just got 2 dekas for the price of just that one kinetik. and for the 1/0 knukoncepts is good, so is kicker wire. but you can save money and look on ebay for the lower level knukoncepts or even monster if you have to. sub wise its gonna be totally up to you as far as what you want it to sound like but depending on your mesurements and cu ft. i would go with the 15. but i like lows. also to save money, look used. there are anything FI all over the place for sale. honestly anything you get from any of those companies is gonna be a great product. i personally had 2 18 inch FI BL's and i LOVED them. also look for a cascade designs omega. those puckers look like Beasts. Dont skimp on an amp tho, you can probly just get another MD1 and put one to each coil, or one to each 12 if you go that route

the AQ stuff sounds good, but as far as batteries go, the kinetiks are great and i have one, but i would roll with the Deka's for 187 each and get like 3 or 4 and then use some more money on deadening, bc even some deadening is better than none. and those 2 AQ's are gonna have serious bang and flex. and look for 2/0 or 3/0 welding wire for the big 3 and run the rest Knu

look into the eclipse units...they seem to be as good as anything else out there imo

honestly all of those are great companies and have woofers you can accomplish your goals with. first off you need a budget mark, and then what you can stretch too haha cuz it always costs more than you want it to. so i would def set that first because just FI alone has any woofer that can fit your description so far, know what i mean? also how is your electrical system? i saw that your gonna do the big 3, but where are you at on batteries, alts, etc.

try a new box man...nuff said

i like in orange county, ca. is there any shows or comps anytime around here?

thanks for the help guys, i appreciate it

any special way to secure it to the basket?

i think im being boycotted on this site

i read the sticky on this already, but can you use speaker wire instead? and how do you remove the push terminals and make the connection style of the pos and neg leads like the AQ or DD's?

im gonna make a box for the girlfriends 02 bug for the RE SRX 10 and which would be the best. sub back port up, sub back port side, or sub back port back? or does it not matter really. not goin for a major setup, just a little smooth bump. thinking 1.5 cubes 35hz

that is such a clean and amazing install..props to who ever did that that. was the lighting just a white led?

ive got a 15 inch RE Destroyer that ive been lookin like a mad man to get a recone for. RE will not do it for me so i must look elsewhere, which i would rather FI do it anyways. Scott or nick please help a brotha out.

awesome thanks for the info gregg..can you please help me do something with my destroyer?

what is the price for this baby?? and gregg, can you please help me do something good with my Destroyer! no one knows much about them, or will help me recone it to that or hybrid or anthing

what are the general opinions on the RE SX or the SXX 12's ? ] what are they similar/ worse/ better than for around the same price range?

to be honest...any of those will work fine. if you go with the fosgate, it will be fine. but i would not pay that much for that amp. if you go sundown, look used for a cheaper price than 500 for the 1500D. do not get the 3000 bc it will absolutely rape and pillage your SSD's. the audiopipe will overpower those subs but not too bad if your easy on the gains like phi said. i would go with the AQ. they make great amps and the 2200 would be a great match for the SSD's. besides, thats a good amp for only 389....and no cap, get good batterys, get a alt, and do the big 3. look powermaster or kinetik, or if you dont want to spend alot get the deka's from remybattery.com. way better than the yellow tops....just my .02's

how does it compare to other subs in its power range? ex. re se.....

its tuned to 35. 5.8 cubes..my interior speakers are loud and clear

i just got my autotek mean machine 1500 hooked up to my 2 type r 12s and i got the ssf at 35 and the lpf at 80...what do you guys run yours at or suggest i run them at

What exactly do you mean when you say it would beat the others? Just louder? How would it sound compared to two 15"? well that is all install dependent, so 1 18 can be louder, but most likely the 2 15's would be louder. based on the fact that they are the same sub. the 18 would be a lower and more solid sound. i prefer the sound of 18's. the XCON would be another great choice. and XCONs are cheaper than a XXX by far, but i would think that the XCON and the XXX would be similar in the fact that they are both Loud Sound Quality woofers

i would say Q but thats mostly because of my experiebce with FI and i think they make great woofers. im sure the ICON is great too so probly either way you are getting a great woofer. i would stick with those over the diamond bc in my opinion ive never really been impressed with diamond.....but 15s sealed seems kind of a waste to me bc they are capable of so much more output in a vented enclosure. judging from cu ft in that truck theres no way you could port 2 15's properly so maybe you could look into a single 18 RE XXX ported or something like that based on your amp. i just dont like anything above 12 sealed but thats my opinion. a single 18 should be everything you can ask for and take in that truck. plus XXX's sound great and hit some seriosuly sweet notes. plus 18's in trucks just looks so nasty when you realize how big that actually is

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength How on EARTH does that work? idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box... I must apologize, I mis-read and thought you were saying that routing the edges adds structural strength no worries, i was just trying to spread knowledge across the forum

not necessarily true. there are plenty of great subs that have very high tuning requirements. ex- DD, Audioque

what if you are running one under the hood and only running one in the back, with no solenoid. how do you charge that?