Spencerk

more importantly do you have the goods to back up a 1000 watt amp ( you would be surprised at what it takes to run one)

no if you have a 350 watt amp you will need 30 amps for that alone.....PLUS that 50 amps is probably what the alt makes at max power, and you have to figure in what the car will need to run. you could probably get a good amg cell bat and a smaller pully for that alt and you will should be ok, or go with a ho unit.

Garmin nuvi 260W and I F-ing hated that thing....I have updated and even gone out and bought new maps for it and it still it sucks. Most notability when I drive in grand rapids MI around 28th street it will make me take 3 left turns when I could just make one right. Once I have done that it takes so long to " recalculate my route" that I have missed the next turn, so naturally it will "recalculate my route" again taking forever to do that.....Bottom line I threw it out the window on 28th street and Division st , and got a ticket for littering. So now I have a broken Garmin and 75 less dollars in my possession.

not to get off topic, but what kind of car did you do that in Julian??

Why do you want to know if I may ask ( if you are building a system lets us know you goals, and we could help much more easily)

Well I have a BL and as the name suggests i have done 144.1 46htz on in the back of a explorer on an Zapco 9.0x burped it at 26xx watts

ummm... this is very hard to answer bc every car will be different and on top of that every install is different, and are we talking loud to the ear or loud on the TL...... WAY to many variables to take into consideration

yes its like 30 days last i checked on the btls and with the holidays the shipping could be way backed up.....I know you are pumped about getting it, just be cool man, they are a reputable company and they wont screw you at all they are lagit and upstanding. Trust me the wait will be totaly worth it

both amps would be a good choice I would get whatever one you could get for less. As for the batt unless you are going to get an isolator you need to just replace the once under the hood and with those amps you should be fine with a good amg dry cell

well I would try and move the ground but if the sub amp isnt doing ti then I would think the same location would not be cause for concern. what kind of amp is it. I could be the amp internally or the out put from the deck could be bad.

22xx watts rms on 4G wire will even if this thing was 100% efficient (imposable) that wire would still be too small....I would not take the chance. proly wont do real numbers

All of the above are great engines but the Yamaha 3.0 that came from the SHO, 16K rpm on 100% stock internals....come on, and with 900 bucks you can make a 390hp at the wheels on 91 oct pump gas JAP POWER BABY

Your car wont blow up or enter a warp or tear in space time but you will run into a bottle neck of current.....I'll keep it simple, your cars batt is one big loop, your power flows from the Negative terminal out to your source (amp) out the Pos and into the Pos post of the batt. So when you have any one part of that loop smaller than than the rest you will have a back up. Now a back up (or high opposition to current flow) your will create heat and if you have enough heat thats when "bad things can happen" bottom line just go ground crazy their is no such thing as too many grounds

we are all going to get ban from here for life for even talking of this but....any word on the price i need something to put 3k on daily

I have 2k on my bl daily BUT I know when too let off and back out of it, you have to be smart if your going to push it. if you want to make a set up that's newb prof then stick with 1400 or less, you could clip a bl pretty hard on 1400 and she will live to see another day

probably at least 200amps Yeah you should just call mech man or another quality establishment and have one built for you, a rewind will fail and wont work for what your trying to do....also dont forget that your car will also need about 70 amps ontop of the system....you will need a GOOD ho alt and a good dry cell low internal resistance 12 or 14 volt batt

what kind of power do you plan on pulling from this alt and for how long do you plan on doing it? if you only need to go from 90 ampd to 130 you can hot wrap or over wind, and if you need a few more culomes of current then you could just get a smaller pulley

their is alot more than just powermaster some of the best would be mech man or DC power engineering... a good ho alt will run you about 400 bucks for a 250 amp unit

I would go with a smaller car/smaller system (Hahhah like 3 or 4 15s...small my ass) , less cost involved with smaller car, less materials. etc. That would give you the ability to to give every square inch of the car the utmost attention to detail.

the 4G from the alt to the fuse box isn't hurting anything so I would leave it, and too many grounds is like too much sex ya cant have to many of them so adding more wont hurt but if the connections are clean and secure you should be ok

I was trying to stay under 1000 total I have a 7 series Samsung flat screen already, I just thru out the Samsung name bc I saw that they have the sound bar and I can hook it up to the optical out on the TV and control it all with one remote and they all match but im open to any ideas you guys have, I would even be down to make my own towers (if people do that)??? Can you still get good imaging with just a center, two nice towers and a sub?

I have 2 T1's in that back of the GFs grand am ive got them on 2 nine.1 they take about 900 all day with np

no im not stuck on just those two items BUT I dont want to have wires and crap all over the room .......

Lynyrd Skynyrd------------Free Bird

What kind of car??? Are those dimensions all the MAX and are they outside dimensions??? looks like space will be tight. you only have 8.5 cubes BEFORE the port and the sub