hondakilla98

I was wondering about this myself. If proximity to the port affects output and sound.

A girl I did, had a pair of those 12's in a jetta. They weren't very impressive. But I bet that sounded better than the non existent sub that comes in a wrangler.

Sounds like you should post up a build log. When you do, make sure to put a link to it in this thread. I've always liked the old SC's. I'd love to have one with a 2JZ or LS swap.

I'm all for lowend. I'm working on an llt for my home theater with an 18" aa avalanche in 21 cu ft. But why not use drivers built for what your trying to accomplish? Buy some maelstrom 18" or even better 21". Since you've got the box volume for it. And tune it low.

Since i posted in this thread I have sold and repurchased this jeep. So not much progress has been made. Ive done a little more tuning and playing with crossover settings. It sounds less harsh on the top end. This has become my girls car so won't get much else done. I'm going to replace the 15 with a single 12 box to save space, and I'll deaden, seal and mlv the front doors. Then it's on to my Cadillac build.

I haven't seen one of those in a long time. I helped a buddy do a stealth install in his 76 ford pickup. We put the mids in the door behind the stock grills and put the tweets in the air vents in the dash. Then we took out the stock radio and cut the face off with a bandsaw. Glued all the buttons in place from the back side. Recessed the new deck in the stock location. And then put little peices of Velcro on. So when you parked, you stuck the factory face on and it looked stock. He lived in a bad neighborhood.

yup so stop saying stupid stuff lol The truth isn't stupid. Here's another saying that applies to you. It's better to be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and prove it. And we don't come here for the drama. If that's what you want, take that shit elsewhere before you fuck up this great forum anymore than you already have.

yea i think thats like the worst comparison you could ever make.... just when cell phones were almost $30 for unlimited everything the iphone made us take 100 steps back, you could get a laptop and a wireless card and a broadband connection for less than the cost of the iphone... people that actually pay for that overpriced piece of crap are just retarded and that's whats wrong with America and why were failing, so lets not get started on inferior technology. Well when I can fit a laptop with a wireless card in my pocket I'll stop being "retarded". I'm all for different opinions. But you sound ignorant. An iPhone or any smartphone for that matter serves a purpose. Just because it's not practical for you, doesn't make everyone that has one retarded. Posted from my iPhone.

This thread reminds me of a saying. Ignorance can be cured. But stupidity is forever.

I have a pair of sa-10's in 2.5 net tuned to 32 with 40 sq in of port. they take everything my saz-1500d will put out at 1 ohm. It sounds good at the same time. I'd say that 2.4 with a 1000 watts will sound fine. And you won't have to worry about hurting the subs.

I personally would wall from the rear side door back with 4 "appropriate" 18's and still have a functional limo. Then advertise the worlds loudest limo and make some money.

148 still isn't 150 :rofl:

It depends on box size. Look around the sundown forum and you'll find a thread with a gudeline to power handling vs box size.

Especially since you don't have a "frame". It's a unibody car.

That's gonna be tough. You want to get more output for half the money. Both subs you mentioned are $300. In that space I'd recommend two sa10's on 1200 watts. But that's double your budget. Maybe one sa12 or Skar vvx12? Or wait for the Skar vvx10 presale, And get two? Probably be closer to $200.

I have two sa10's in 2.5 cu ft tuned to 32 on a saz1500d. They sound great and have a surprising amount of output. They will take everything the 1500d has. But i wouldnt put anymore power to them. Not for daily. I would love to hear four of them. Especially in an eclipse. Mine are in a grand Cherokee. Good luck with the build. If you decide to go with NS why not go with a pair of 12's?

+1

I was told to turn the gain on the amp all the way down. Then turn the remote all the way up. Plug in the remote. Then adjust the gain on the amp. That way the remote gain can only turn the gain down. And you don't risk turning it up too high by mistake.

Well it seems like a lot of work. But I won't be building the box again. So why not make it perfect. It's going in a false wall. And will have to last years. And if I set it up in my garage and do a little at a time. It'll seem like less work. Besides, I only have two clamps. Something else to buy.

That's a good point. So build the bottom, front, back, and sides then start with the bracing in the middle around the sub. And work my way out clamping each new peice? And then sand to fit the end pieces? Then mark where all the bracing is and glue nail and clamp on the top?

The problem I'm trying to figure out. Is they are supposed to interlace into each other. If I can't get this to work. I'll just run the vertical braces. I'll use a circle jig and cut a large circle in the middle of each one And then run some dowels side to side for support.

I was thinking that. But I'd like paper templates to work off of. Now I have access to a 48" wide plotter. So I can print them. I just don't know how.

I'm working on a home theater sub. It'll be an aa avalanche 18 in an 21 cu ft llt tuned to 15 hz. I'm trying to figure out how to cut the complicated bracing in this box design. So I was thinking if I got someone to CNC the bracing I can cut the rest of the boards and will have a much easier build. Any suggestions are appreciated. Here is a link. And some pics of the design. I have the google sketchup file, and was wondering if it would be able to make templates of each piece and print them on a plotter. Then I'd cut them to size with a table saw and cut them out with a jig saw. Link to build post

You left out a clipped signal.

What is this going in?