altoncustomtech

Yep, I'd go get the trouble code(s) read and see what's up. There's no distributor, but there's still plug wires, spark plugs, an ICM and coil packs that can give misfires when going out. There's also the possibility it could be a throttle position sensor, EGR valve and numerous other sensors that can cause such a symptom. The code scanner is your friend, embrace it and it will guide you back to a well working vehicle, lol.

Look at it this way, it will likely need reconed anyway, I wouldn't hesitiate to go poking and prodding around on it and seeing if it could be temporarily repaired. I wouldn't be real pissed, look at it like this. It's 3 yrs old and a subwoofer which sees a fair amount of mechanical movement on a regular basis and is therefore going to be susceptible to mechanical failure. After 3 yrs of regular use one of the most moved parts of the assembly finally gave out and could even have had a small imperfection (sorry guys, but it can happen) that helped it too. It's nothing to be happy about, but it's not something that can't be completely unexpected. One good way to look at it is that when you're done reconing it the sub will be just like brand new! lol

On your question about the grounds, grounds are grounds. In the audio realm if it is to be grounded then it's best the equipment is grounded at the same point. The rubbing sound was most likely exactly what you think it was, the lead coming off. I like the build and while you didn't have much of a choice on the amp mounting perhaps you can get a creative impulse and figure something out. You can use a putty knife, pocket knife or a razor blade to clean off the glue, some contact cleaner or mineral spirits will help cut some of the adhesive too.

It can very easily be something other than the transmission. A common problem that causes a vehicle to buck and toss up the check engine light is a misfire due to bad plug wires or spark plugs. I don't know what kind of vehicle it is, but if it has a distributor the cap and rotor could be worn as well or a coil pack or the ICM (ignition control module) could be going. There's several things that it can be, a little extra info might help like the year make and model of the vehicle. Take it to Autozone or Advance Auto parts or one of those places that can put a code scanner on it for free and see what the code is. If it's a misfire code then it's definitely ignition system related, if not then it can help pinpoint the problem for sure.

I'm going to go out on a limb and am likely going to sound like a real dick here. You're "new to the game", your own words right? Please listen and answer the questions that everyone is asking you. You're already beginning like a lot of the bunches of the young new members we've seen on come on here who ask a question like this, then totally disregard what gets said and recommended to them. You may have had your mind made up before you asked for a recommendation here because some friends are telling you this sub or that amp or this design is the best, but NO ONE here is going to be recommending anything to you that will lead you wrong, and if someone would happen to the other members would catch and correct it because we're like family here and we do care. Now that the rant is over, how much experience do you have with car audio? I am assuming the RE 5000 watt amp you're looking at is the XTX 5000.1 which is rated 2500wrms @ 1ohm, 1700wrms @ 2 ohm and 1000wrms @ 4 ohm. I also assume that you had planned on running those Powerbass subs wired to 2 ohms on the amp for 1700wrms of power. While that would be a decent match of equipment your planned starting electrical setup will be very marginal at running it. If this is your first system then listen to these guys and do something a little different. I think you could get by spending a little less money and be happier with the results without stressing the electrical system so badly. Lurker had suggested the DCON's or Fi X's, which are both great subs that fall in your budget. They don't require tons of power to sound good and get loud either at 300wrms and 250wrms rated handling respectively. There's also the SD-2 series of subs coming out very soon by Sundown and Ascendant Audio has the Arsenal series subs, both of which are rated at 500wrms or the SA series or DC Audio Level 3's which are rated at 600wrms and a pair of any of those wired to 4 ohms on that amp would be a great match and not be quite as stressful on the electrical either. Do you already own the amp? If so then those are some good considerations, if not then the DCON's or X's would be great on a smaller, less expensive amp. There's so many brands and a multitude of equipment offered by them that it can be somewhat overwhelming when you're looking at new equipment and don't have direct experience with it. It's even tougher when someone recommends something to you that you nor anyone you know have ever used or listened to. I stress though that no one on here is going to recommend anything to you that we ourselves have either not owned, used, listened to or had some experience with and not know it to be a good, dependable, worthwhile piece of eqiupment.

As I said in the other thread, I think you can handle the recone just fine. Still sucks about the sub though. The fix on the HU may seem ghetto, but necessity is the mother of invention, it works.

Dude that sucks about the Q, but like you said at 3 yrs old it's hard to say for certain how much anything was worn or exactly what may have happened with it yet. I think you could handle the recone on your own. Some people use plastic shims, other's use note cards inside the coil gap around the pole to center the coil. It doesn't matter much what you use as long as it doesn't leave any part of it behind in the gap and holds the coil centered with even amounts of it around the gap. The rest is just gluing and making sure the glue job is a good one. Otherwise you can always send it in to Fi and have them to recone it. I'm really glad you found the issue with the noise. While coil feedback was a possibility, I thought it was odd it was making noise in the radio.

There's so many to choose from, it's hard to get very specific without knowing more about what you're really wanting. I do know that I'll stand by the recommendation on the DCON's, they're just incredible for the money. They would get loud like WOOOOSSSHHHH!!!!! No, No. It's, "They'll go BOOM like SO."

You're welcome... If you need a wiring diagram to be certain it's right I can get one posted up for you.

You are correct. A dual 2 ohm sub wired in parallel will yield a 1 ohm nominal load.

Eh, even pyramid can be entertaining. There's nothing like watching a speaker (any type, size or brand) scream for mercy and then go poof. MMMUUWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

There's just WAY too many variables to know for certain, it's all about the installation. I personally like the idea of several kick ass lower powered subs on a decent little amp. I think three 10" DCON's or Fi X's would be plenty loud enough and sound fantastic, but then I'm not into lots of SPL so my tastes and goals may not fit yours. I do like my music loud from time to time, but my sister's single 12 DCON on it's 300wrms for example, would be enough for me on most occasions. I don't need anything wig splitting, earth shaking, or otherwise gaining for competition, so again I say that IMO three 10's would be great but my idea of loud enough and yours are likely much different.

Literally! Did you see how many times that guy punched it? Someone needs to call the Cops and report the abuse. :lol2:

Looks damn good!! Thanks!! Thank you sir, I wanted to be able to show off their hot asses, lol. Should do the same when you get your ZCON! LOL, speaking of dusting off the enclosure needs a good Pledging. I dunno about sweet, but it's a video. I couldn't believe it when I played it back on my laptop the first time and the components alone were about overdriving the microphone, once the bass starts it really sounds like ass. That's what I get for trying to do it on my cell phone, it takes great stills for a phone but the videos aren't nearly as good. I'm hoping the mic on the camera is a little more forgiving. Speaking of seeing it in person, when's the next show at that shop up there in Indy? Thanks!!

There.... finally got the Youtube link to work, lol....

Well, it sucks but it is finally a video of the Q's in action. I'm going to try to get the HD cam out and get a vid or two with it, hopefully it can capture all the shit moving, lol.

Agree with the guys above, and If I were you I wouldn't do it, at all. For competition use when burping people have gotten away with running real low loads but even for the moments it takes to do the burp they're still generally stressing the electrical components in the amp beyond their designed ability. It shortens the life of the product, plain and simple. If it's some old amp that you had lying around and you're just wanting to see what it can do before it smokes and you don't care if it lives or not then who cares, but if it's relatively new and you intend to keep and use it for some time then I wouldn't even do it for burping let alone for any extended period. Just my .02

to the forum!! I don't think you'll be the least bit disappointed with anything you try in the Fi lineup. Since you have the amp already the best choices from Fi would be a big BTL or a pair of BL's, either would match up with it very well.

One positive point that comes from all the problems is that not just you, but everyone who's reading this is learning as well. Thanks for sharing the mishaps as well as the winning moments!

boredom and a long day have won.... night all, catch ya on the flip side

In the chat now..... boredom is about to take me in....

Figures.... Maybe when I'm ready for one I'll be able to find a used one.

It just takes time to get them built, I'm sure you'll see something soon.

It's not that it would or wouldn't be enough for the engine, as the engine itself and the electronics that support it don't really require that much power, but if it could keep up with all the accessory items. Most likely it would be, but that's not an issue if you already got it sold. What you do know is it looks like you have exactly the information you need to look into getting a larger stock style alt. You could get one from the same kind of truck in a salvage yard for a little bit of nothing in comparison to a full out HO alt. I know little about the intricacies of Ford's, so you may have to change the plug for the alternator, the belt, or may run into some small fitment issues. Another option that I've seen done is mounting a second big factory alt like that one and wiring it up only to the audio equipment.

Both of these guys are correct. If money for a true HO alt is a problem you might be able to find a larger factory alt out of a Lincoln or a bigger truck that may mount up without much modification. Such as with the 4.3 vortecs an AD244 will direct bolt into the location for the stock CS130 and factory harness plugs right in the only thing needed is a slightly longer belt.