altoncustomtech

Awesome.... our parent company has quite a few LNG assets.... Yeah, gotta love a turbo that has to be lifted with a crane and has to be pre spun with compressed air before the engine can start..... LOL

Well, I used to have that component set too. I'm pretty sure there's a poly switch for the tweeter and if the signal is getting clipped it's probably trying to save the tweeter. Doesn't mean that there's not a possible problem with the amp, but I'd lean more toward the fact the dull sound is the tweeters about going out, mine would do that too. What are your bass/treble settings? If you've got them turned way up you could very possibly be just over driving the tweeters. You may want to try doing this -> Tweeter Savers <- may help save the tweeters.

That's plenty of power.... that's a very efficient set to begin with....

sounds like there's problems where the leads meet the coil in the center. What size enclosure and what was the tuning?

yep, what you have circled there....

Firstly, Thank you sir, took my wife longer to pick the colors than it did for me to build it, LOL. Secondly, have to thank Fi for the dustcaps. And thirdly, Thanks again, the false panel was the only way to get everything stuffed in the thing and believe it or not there's a C&D batt behind the thing as well! Thank you man.

Lookin' good dude!

Awesome, welcome to the forum! You've come to the right place to learn, lots of very knowledgeable people here and good info available on the forum.

You mean Fiday? lol, congratulations dude, you're going to love it. Welcome to the Fi family of nutheads. LOL

LMAO..... BABY!!

Not only are they full of fail, but they continuously and unknowingly make themselves sound dumber and dumber. I left a comment on YouTube that I'm sure won't be approved, but I felt it had to be said. Between what I saw under the hood, and the catastrophe that is the battery/ground strapping, and all the other upcoming fail that we can all see, this thing will end up flame broiled for certain.

Pretty much the same boat a Bozz here. There's only one shop here that sells anything worth purchasing. Most of the time I do all my purchasing online, it's just quicker, easier, has a better selection and let's face it, pretty much always has the better price. I do what I can to help support the local shop as it's the only good one we have, but at the pretty much retail prices it's hard to do when I know I can get it cheaper online. I do try to get installation accessories and such items from there as much as possible and we've drummed up enough business with our car club to get a discount for members.

Some updates here. We changed the turbo charger on the #3 unit last September, I put some pics of this up to give everyone an idea of how big the turbos are that run these engines. Here's a shot of the intake tower for Unit #1 on the left, and the engine coolant cooling towers for all of them on the right. In the background you can see the crane that is being used to lift the old turbo charger out and the new one in. Here's a shot of the Old turbo being flown out to an awaiting trailer. Here's the new one being set down and moved into place. As you can see, it's not a run of the mill sized Turbocharger, LOL.

Yeah, if they were to burn diesel or something along those lines you'd probably never be able to keep fuel to them. One engine can burn enough gas in one day to heat your house for nearly a year, maybe longer. The small Turbine burns enough gas in one day to equal two of the recip units and the big one is more than twice that. They use ALOT of fuel to do what they do, standard fuels such as gasoline or diesel would just be impossible to keep enough supply to them and would cost an ungodly amount of money.

In an ideal world that would be great. Some vehicles just won't allow for a second alt bracket without removing the AC compressor or something like that. My '98 Venture is one of them for example. No way in hell a second alt could be strapped to it without removing something, and lets face it. If it were a competition vehicle, who would give a rat's ass about AC, but in a family DD it's kind of a necessity.

It kinda does.... I mean, almost everyone you hear of who still has dimming trouble after upgrading to a HO alt and adding an extra batt or two have some sort of GM built vehicle. Damn, wish I could find that freakin' article.

I read an article somewhere, (I'll see if I can find it) that stated the new ODBII systems have a ramp rate on the voltage regulator. In other words, it doesn't immediately change the output of the voltage regulator to keep up with the load. According to the article it had to do with some crap concerning emissions and the sudden drag on the engine. So it wouldn't matter how much battery and alt you had (unless you had a second that wasn't ODBII compliant) the voltage will always drop on sudden large current spikes like bass hits cuz the voltage regulator won't adjust that quickly. Now, if the article is correct, there's your problem. Problem with the article is, I can't remember the source so I'm not sure of the accuracy of the info. It makes some sense, but at the same time it's kinda hard to believe. I would go through EVERY regular troubleshooting step before assuming any of that information is correct. Another possible solution, if everything checks out, may be one of the XS Power VCM controllers.

Glad to hear you got your box dude! Now it's time to get some pics of everything and the build log going!!

I doubt that wire is REAL 0 guage at that price. Quite honestly, if you're needing to save a few dollars and the only amp on the wire will be the 1500 then you can easily get by with a 1/0 CCA kit from KNU. CCA can't carry the same amount of current as an equally sized wire that's pure copper. However, if the 1500 is the only amp on the wire you won't pull anywhere near the capacity of the 1/0 KNU CCA kit. If I were you, that would be the way I would go. KNU CCA Amp Kit The kit doesn't come with RCA's but here's KNU's run of the mill ones. KNU RCA's

WOW.... can we say pissing match anyone? LOL! I think everyone's forgotten the purpose behind the topic here. The OP was simply asking what size would be best and it turned into a mess. Now, we need to give him all the points, not just toss a bunch of opinions out there and argue over who's is the better. Definitely as was originally stated, the largest that can fit in the terminals of the amp should be used, for best results. Verifiably that is 1/0 AWG. While the kits, be it Stinger, KNU, Rockford, whatever brand can be a little more expensive, they are handier for beginners as they include pretty much everything one needs. When it comes to places to get welding cable, weldingsupply.com, cableyard.com and several other places can be much less expensive to attain the cable. However, it does have to be pieced together which takes time and a little experience. Piecing a kit together from a welding supply isn't too bad, the cable and connectors are easily gotten, however the fuse holder, battery terminal if you want one, and other accessories still have to be picked up at the Stinger, KNU, Rockford, etc. stores. Speaker wire, RCA's and such really come down to how much you're willing to spend on them. At least 12awg speaker wire should be used with the subs as a generally followed rule. C'mon guys, lets keep the topic at hand. Sorry everyone, I just read through the entire topic and it threw me how much no help it really was.

Which mobo do you have? A faster CPU may help a little, but the Vid card upgrade, and if possible, a faster RAM would be more beneficial, especially the vid card if yours is much older than the one you linked. Today's games are much more dependent on the power and speed of the BUS (PCIE), the memory and the power and memory of the video card than before. I can remember the days when CPU power and RAM were the top need for a fast gaming machine. They're still important, but not nearly as much as the video card and bus speeds. My guess is you're limited by memory and bus bandwidth.

Cutting that metal plate will be just fine, depending on the car. Some cars build some structural integrity into that plate, you'll just have to study it very closely to see. Usually there's braces, or more than one layer of sheet metal in a crease to indicate some sort of structural purpose. If that's the case you'll have to keep those parts in place while you do the building. If not, then cut away! I'm with Jared on the trunk scene. I think they sound best when sealed to the cabin of the vehicle. Then a fiberglass beauty panel will look gorgeous. There used to be a build somewhere I went to all the time to show people where a guy built a hell of a box in a trunk and built some BEAUTIFUL beauty panels to seal it into the cabin, with the aero ports coming up where the rear speakers used to be, flushed into fiberglass, then a fiberglass beauty panel for his amps as well. Sub was a TC Sounds LMS Ultra, 15 or 18.... wish I could still remember where that build was at....

Someone posed the exact question to Nick in the chat the other day. None of the soft parts on the subs are fragile enough to be caused any trouble by playing hard cold, but if you feel better letting things warm up first, there's no problem doing so.

Nope, gotta say I call dibs on the El Camino project car. Got my dad's '78 SS to play with.

I have a secret crush on a volvo wagon. just done think i could own one. So put it in your wife's name, then YOU technically wouldn't own it.