altoncustomtech

There's a brand new Holiday Inn Express right as you come into Vincennes off of HWY 41... I'll text you the address asap... There's plenty of stores, Jay-C's, Wally World, etc. it 's up to you if you wanna bring anything extra. BY ALL MEANS BRING THE GIRLS!!! My daughter will be 12 later this month, she'll enjoy the company!!!!! With her 3 brothers she doesn't get much girly playtime. Afraid I wasn't able to find a meter, so it looks like we'll just be jammin' for the show off fun of doing it. I was looking forward to seeing the cutty in person, but I understand as well if you're unable to bring it, I'm just glad you're all making it down!!

That would be Torres' calc, available here -> Torres' box calc

Chop you're welcome to use the couch, but I'd recommend the spare bed, lol. Give me a call sometime, I'll be more than happy to walk you through some steps to get it working right again.

Hey there... Dude I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Glad to see you're gettin' started doing what you been wanting to do for awhile now!

Didn't notice it at the bottom of the page yesterday.... :gift: HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRO!!! :gift:

Gina's install is lookin nice Chop!

Chop, I used to be a certified computer tech. Let me know sometime if I can help you with your PC problems....

Damn man, he's just gettin' too big too fast already. Doesn't seem like it's been that long. He's lookin good and that cookin' looks like just too much.

Welcome to the forum! That's a fairly informative first post. I personally would suggest the Fi BL as I do love my Fi Q's and want to share the Fi experience with everyone I can, lol. Seriously though, for the more SPL oriented output you're looking for the SA-12 or BL would probably be the better choice's. The ICON still gets plenty loud but like the other SSA subs is more SQ oriented, but what the hell do I really know I don't have any personal experience with any of the three, lol. My vote is still for the BL on the SAX-1200. Good luck and again, welcome to the forum!

Giving this a bump. Show is in a couple of weeks now, it looks like there's going to several people driving in for this, one person may even be driving about 8 hrs to come in. Since it's going to be a long haul for a few the wife and I decided that it would be unkind for everyone to show up and then just take off without showing any other hospitality. So we're inviting anyone who attends over to the house for some grillin' out, bon-fire, and whatever silly nonsense that may accompany that many car audio nuts and gear heads getting together in one place out in the middle of nowhere where the noise won't bother anyone but the deer, coyotes and whatever else happens to be in earshot.

lol.... figured as much.... still curious as to why it didn't come up on the search before I posted.... oh well... :edit: aahhh.... I see now.... SMD was never mentioned in the post and that's what I did the search for...

This may have already been posted, though I didn't find anything on a search. An interesting read I thought. Ascendant Audio SMD review

Damn she's lookin' sexy chop and I actually like the font they used for your nick name. I'm making plans for the families to get together for some fun after the car show if you're interested, and the invitation goes out to all of the IAK and SSA members who come down. I'm looking forward to hearing what the XCON's can do after you get it done as well.

The subs will perform fine on that power. Just because you see people putting 700-1k to each one doesn't mean that's what needs to be done to get them to perform. With the lower than rated power you can get by with a larger, more efficient ported enclosure to help with the output. How they sound will be a direct result of the enclosure, it's tuning and the environment (vehicle) they play in. I've not gotten to hear what mine sound like yet, but everyone I've talked to who's using them says they sound pretty good.

Thanks man. Thanks, yeah they should be plenty solid for a 6.5". Once they're completely built I'll smooth them up and be painting them the same color as the truck.

A little more work done today. Cut these out the other day, the shape matches the shape of the factory plastic speaker baffle, holder, thingy. Getting all the tools out and ready. Been awhile since I used the little jig, forgot it only goes to 7.5" needed to cut out 7.25" circles but since the cuts are measured to the outside so they had to be 7.75" ooops... oh well... with the SKIL it's as easy as changing the bases. Getting some circles done Test cut out. Showing the recess for the top layer the mids will mount in. Love using a router to cut out circles. Got the depth just a hair shallower than the 3/4" depth of the MDF so thin I could finish the cuts with my pocket knife. Here's the last test fit. Here's what the baffles will basically look like once they're done. I still have to mark the alignment of the rings to the baffle through the hole in the panel to finish them up. Glued and ready to put the rings together. Rings are assembled. Hopefully I can get the rings aligned on the baffle and begin deadening the door in the next couple of days.

Do you know what the final price is yet guys? I should have a few extra bucks here soon and would love to get one for everyone.

Whether or not the sub will last with 1k of power will all be install and user dependent. Which means if it's installed correctly, gains set correctly, and you have respect for the volume knob you're not going to instantly destroy it or anything. 1k is almost double the rated power, but a responsible person could easily get by alright. The fact that you're considering using a sealed enclosure will help with the power handling ability of the sub as well. If you're looking for more quality than output then going sealed with 1k is the way to go IMO. On the second question, I assume this is a trunk car? Most setups in trunk cars are easier to work with and sound just fine with the sub firing toward the rear of the car from just behind the back of the seat. However, if you wanted to go through the trouble of building a box and sealing to the back of the back seat firing into the cabin you can generally get more output into the car and not have to worry as much about rattling of panels in the trunk, the trunk lid, tail lights, plates etc. Just depends on your installation experience and how much work you'd like to put into the car.

It was a bitch getting the melted crap off after the heatgun. but if you just peel it off it dosent really leave much behind. I always kinda wondered about that. I have wondered if using an old CO2 fire extinguisher or liquid N or something like that to freeze the deadener would help it come off easier. I never thought the recommendations of using heat was a good idea and it looks like you proved it.

Lookin' good thus far. I can imagine the removal of that fatmat was a nightmare by the looks of the crap that was left over.

Guess I shoulda jumped in with a response sooner.

The best way to keep the saw from meandering across the board is to either buy or build a guide for the saw. Lowes has some nice aluminum ones that come with the C clamps, or you can make your own and buy the clamps you need to hold it steady. I would suggest making one for the simple fact that when you use the aluminum one's you have to add the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade to the cut measurement. Whereas with the one's you make all you have to do is line it up with the line to cut from all the different plans I've seen for them on the net. Plus they're really quite simple to build. Cut the end of a piece of MDF or another board of some type, the whole 48" and the long length as well. An inch or two wide is all you need. Then glue and screw (or nail) back on the board with the factory cut side facing in. You'll have to do one at a time on this step as well. Then take your circular saw, set it up against the rail you just screwed (or nailed) and make another cut. The piece that comes off will be the perfect width for your saw and when clamped down on your cut lines will give you a perfectly straight cut every time. Just remember to adjust the new fence for blade width (usually 1/8") for inside cuts. Here's some links to free plans and instructions. number 1 number 2 number 3

Welcome to the Forum!! You shouldn't have any trouble getting the help you need here.

Boy dude, you got too much going on. As much as I would like to see some kewl audio stuff going on in a few weeks, I would agree that it would be best to maybe hold off a little and get some of the other stuff done, and the way unexpected things seem to like to drop on people around here I think making sure your piggy bank is a bit fatter before going for it is a very good idea as well. Still can't wait to see what you end up doing with the car AND definitely still looking forward to next month if you can still make it.

I figured if anyone knew what I was talking about it would be you. It's got me itching to play with the doors on the van. Gotta come up with a plan for it! And believe me, I know how lucky I was the door panel made it so easy. Thanks, and you won't be disappointed by the results. I actually haven't measured the hole there yet, the depth is about 1.75". I'll be using three layers of 3/4" MDF to build my baffles so the rings will be about 2.25" tall, should stick out the door about a half inch minimum, about 3/4 maximum as the depth changes a little as you go around the hole due to the way the panel was molded. Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol. thank you for the supportive jesture Alton, that is cool of you bro! your ever so breif introduction to this new build already has alot to offer others ....that too, is super freaking cool..... helping others to achieve thier goals..... very important! thx chop I figure I have a hard enough time making it to support the Team at shows and events I damn well better support it any other way I can. LOL I also believe that more people should be doing more to help others out, it's one of the many problems in today's world IMHO. If following my builds and using any of my mad methods to do someone else's build can help that someone else out to achieve their goals then I have achieved my goal in the matter of helping others. A win-win for both. Yes sir... I have the supplies on hand already too. Once the rings are cut and the baffles are built I will apply the deadener and finish the doors. Plans after that are to deaden other key area's of the truck and build and install the amp rack and amps. Hopefully when that's complete it will still be good enough weather to build the box.